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dfnt
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  #2845633 9-Jan-2022 14:20
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FWIW ceramic coating isn't going to do anything to stop stone chips, or scratches for that matter

 

It's modern day snake oil for cars, the only thing it does is make the car paint look nice, easier to clean and water bead




RobDickinson
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  #2845647 9-Jan-2022 14:57
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I've had hancook's on my perf w 18s for 5 months now, they are fine.

 

 

 

I have ceramic (easier to wash) but no ppf, paint is ok, couple of stone chips nothing unexpected. 

 

 

 

As for a spare, not had one in the previous 2 vehicles so.. :shrug:


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  #2845662 9-Jan-2022 16:13
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RobDickinson:

 

I have ceramic (easier to wash) but no ppf, paint is ok, couple of stone chips nothing unexpected. 

 



Professionally installed or diy?





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BuzzLightyear
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  #2845788 9-Jan-2022 17:16
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The paint on my MIC car is okay. I would say equivalent to a mid range Korean vehicle. Paint correction would have it looking perfect though as it’s more the finishing than the actual paint itself. E.g. paint thickness varies around the edges (not noticeable unless you are super, super fussy!). Similar to some of my previous high end Holdens/HSV’s.

I have not and am unlikely to get ppf or ceramic coating as will only keep the car 2 - 3 years. FYI when I brought my other new vehicle last year as well I did ceramic coat that and it makes life so easy when cleaning. Esp tar, bugs, bird poop etc. looks good too. I use that vehicle a lot more on the open road and rural driving and I’ll likely keep it over 10 years so worth it.

Technofreak
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  #2845789 9-Jan-2022 17:19
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Dingbatt:

 

RobDickinson:

 

I have ceramic (easier to wash) but no ppf, paint is ok, couple of stone chips nothing unexpected. 

 



Professionally installed or diy?

 

 

I did mine myself. I think if you start with a new car finish you'll get a good result quite easily. If there's a bit of age on the surface you'll need to prepare the surface first with a good cleaning then polish then prep product. In fact even with a new car I'd use the prep product. 





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BuzzLightyear
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  #2845790 9-Jan-2022 17:23
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BuzzLightyear: The paint on my MIC car is okay. I would say equivalent to a mid range Korean vehicle. Paint correction would have it looking perfect though as it’s more the finishing than the actual paint itself. E.g. paint thickness varies around the edges (not noticeable unless you are super, super fussy!). Similar to some of my previous high end Holdens/HSV’s.

I have not and am unlikely to get ppf or ceramic coating as will only keep the car 2 - 3 years. FYI when I brought my other new vehicle last year as well I did ceramic coat that and it makes life so easy when cleaning. Esp tar, bugs, bird poop etc. looks good too. I use that vehicle a lot more on the open road and rural driving and I’ll likely keep it over 10 years so worth it.


Should add highly recommend someone like final touch or OCD detailing to paint correct before ceramic coating.

 
 
 

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morbandit
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  #2845811 9-Jan-2022 18:24
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FWIW the paint on my Fremont M3P was TERRIBLE compared to the paint on my Japan-made Triton, so bad in fact that I'd never leave a California-made car without PPF ever again





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michaelmurfy
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  #2845934 10-Jan-2022 00:02
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Dingbatt:

 

The $24K difference between the M3RWD and M3LR puts it out of reach for a lot of people. Did you notice any difference running on 19” rims rather than the 18s?

 

Personally I didn't but likely because I wasn't really comparing that way - I had the LR for the longest of the 3 but tried the Performance first.

 

You might find the YouTube videos by “The Limiting Factor” on LFP batteries vs NCA batteries of interest before that final squeeze of the trigger. Unless you need the extra range.

 

We're already seeing pretty good battery longevity from the later model EV's in general (including Tesla) so I am not too worried about the cells used. LFP has lower energy density and for us when we do go out for a drive we normally clock up a few hundred KM's so standard range may suit us but I'm in it for the premium interior, sound, acceleration, look and all. If I'm going to get a Tesla then I'd like to do it properly (within reason).

 

dfnt:

 

FWIW ceramic coating isn't going to do anything to stop stone chips, or scratches for that matter

 

It's modern day snake oil for cars, the only thing it does is make the car paint look nice, easier to clean and water bead

 

I agree ceramic coating is snake oil (in a sense) but for me it is the cleaning factor that is the huge draw as my car literally sits in my driveway and does attract a whole lot of cruft so would like something to stop stuff from sticking.





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Dingbatt
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  #2851824 17-Jan-2022 06:53
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The last couple of mornings I have been driving to work from west of Auckland, staring directly into the rising Sun on the motorway. It is blindingly bright, obliterating a lot of visual queues with reflections coming off the road and median barrier.

 

The Model 3 would probably have one of the best optical lane keeping systems going (phantom braking aside). So, in the experience of current M3 owners, how well does it perform in the conditions I describe? I’m wondering if the cameras are clever enough to be able to filter intense light sources and still be able to ‘see’?





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Batman
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  #2851830 17-Jan-2022 07:42
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michaelmurfy:

 

We're already seeing pretty good battery longevity from the later model EV's in general (including Tesla) so I am not too worried about the cells used. LFP has lower energy density and for us when we do go out for a drive we normally clock up a few hundred KM's so standard range may suit us but I'm in it for the premium interior, sound, acceleration, look and all. If I'm going to get a Tesla then I'd like to do it properly (within reason).

 

 

i presume you already know that the performance doesn't give you full acceleration when battery is too cold, too warm or not at near full charge

 

for that reason i think the LR is better, you can also add the acceleration boost


Obraik
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  #2851858 17-Jan-2022 09:28
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Dingbatt:

 

The last couple of mornings I have been driving to work from west of Auckland, staring directly into the rising Sun on the motorway. It is blindingly bright, obliterating a lot of visual queues with reflections coming off the road and median barrier.

 

The Model 3 would probably have one of the best optical lane keeping systems going (phantom braking aside). So, in the experience of current M3 owners, how well does it perform in the conditions I describe? I’m wondering if the cameras are clever enough to be able to filter intense light sources and still be able to ‘see’?

 

 

I very rarely have a problem with the sun causing problems, the way the cameras work really takes away a lot of the glare and intensity of the sun even when it's shining directly into the cameras. The only exception is a new stretch of the Christchurch motorway that has a rather shiny surface and very dull lane paint, so if I'm travelling into the rising sun while it's shining directly on the road it's almost impossible for me to see the lane markings and Autopilot also sometimes fails to see the shoulder marking and treats the should and the lane as one. It's never caused a problem and I haven't had to take over but it just means it ends up hugging the shoulder line. 

 

Where I thought Autopilot would struggle is in very heavy rain and shiny roads, especially at night. However, I've found that it's so much better at being able to see everything in these conditions then I am. While I might be finding it difficult to see the road markings because the water is making the road surface so shiny, Autopilot seems to always be able to see them. It's also much better at keeping a safer following distance in the wet and seeing cars through the road mist.





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Obraik
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  #2851862 17-Jan-2022 09:34
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Batman:

 

michaelmurfy:

 

We're already seeing pretty good battery longevity from the later model EV's in general (including Tesla) so I am not too worried about the cells used. LFP has lower energy density and for us when we do go out for a drive we normally clock up a few hundred KM's so standard range may suit us but I'm in it for the premium interior, sound, acceleration, look and all. If I'm going to get a Tesla then I'd like to do it properly (within reason).

 

 

i presume you already know that the performance doesn't give you full acceleration when battery is too cold, too warm or not at near full charge

 

for that reason i think the LR is better, you can also add the acceleration boost

 

 

I think you're thinking about the older Model S. The Model 3 doesn't really have these problems. As long as it's not freezing conditions, the performance is the same in pretty much all conditions and I don't think I've seen one go into limp mode from overheating, even when being tracked. Charge level is really the only thing that affects its performance and yes, it will drop off a bit once it starts getting below around 70% but not significantly until you get under 30%. However, this applies to all variants of the Model 3.





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RobDickinson
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  #2851865 17-Jan-2022 09:39
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My 3 certainly is affected by battery temps, its a small percentage of power but you can tell when its proper warmed up its an absolute rocket. Probably better with 40% soc and warm than 90% soc and cold.

 

 

 

As for Ap and sun, it warns you cameras are blocked or blinded but this never seems to happen to the front cameras which are the main ones used.


doug3
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  #2852498 17-Jan-2022 21:52
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Performance comparison by Bjorn Nyland

 

At 10% SOC the 2021 SR+ MIC 0-100 km/h time is about the same as the Pref and LR, and 
the SR+ MIC has only lost 13 kw max power but the Pref and LR have lost about 200 kw.


Obraik
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  #2852519 17-Jan-2022 22:25
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Dingbatt:

 

The last couple of mornings I have been driving to work from west of Auckland, staring directly into the rising Sun on the motorway. It is blindingly bright, obliterating a lot of visual queues with reflections coming off the road and median barrier.

 

The Model 3 would probably have one of the best optical lane keeping systems going (phantom braking aside). So, in the experience of current M3 owners, how well does it perform in the conditions I describe? I’m wondering if the cameras are clever enough to be able to filter intense light sources and still be able to ‘see’?

 

 

I was driving home tonight into the sun shining into the cameras at various points. This is how the affected cameras saw the world in that scenario:

 

 

Front camera (not quite as direct as I expected but was very bright for me)

 

 

Right repeater camera





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