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Topic # 161926 23-Jan-2015 14:39
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Hi Guys

I just got a z-wave garage door opener from z-wave.com.au (smartthingsnz.co.nz dont sell them)

This is the wiring diagram for it, and I need to connect L (Live) and N (Neutral)



I cut an old computer plug cord and opened it up, the cord colours are 
Brown
Blue
Green/Yellow 
like so:


Now before I either kill myself or blow up the unit, just double checking I have the colours right.

Brown is hot so I plug it into L
and 
Blue is netural so I plug it into N
Yellow/Green is ground so it's not used.

Is that correct?

The device has a enclosure so no wires will be exposed and it will just look like theres a plug going directly into the box.

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  Reply # 1220828 23-Jan-2015 15:05
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It's correct but I'm going to advise don't do it

Is there no earth point?

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  Reply # 1220834 23-Jan-2015 15:10
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Yeap that's correct. 



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  Reply # 1220838 23-Jan-2015 15:14
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Nah no ground on the control box just L and N.

Is there a reason why youre advising not to do it?

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  Reply # 1220841 23-Jan-2015 15:19
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how about a photo of where you are going to connect the wires?

I would be very interested in what the connection terminals are like

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  Reply # 1220842 23-Jan-2015 15:20
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Just for safety and my own piece of mind - would rather not be found to be giving advise on what was found to be your last post!

Especially when you're questioning something so basic. Would you let someone drive your car on their own if they asked how to turn the key?

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  Reply # 1220880 23-Jan-2015 15:57
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Reven

what are you using for remotes? my current key fob remotes need to be replaced?

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  Reply # 1220889 23-Jan-2015 16:14
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Just wondering what this device does that is different to a standard 2x1.5kW relay from Fibaro? These can be wired up so that they are powered by either 240VAC or 24VDC, and can then switch a separate voltage - i.e. a low voltage garage door opener circuit.

I guess it is the nice packaging/enclosure which makes it a bit easier to install?

I can imagine installing a Fibaro 2x1.5kW relay inside the opener motor unit would be relatively easy though - with it being wired up to the DC side of the motor and switching the opener button in parallel like your device is doing. At least then you wouldn't have to be dealing with mains voltage.

But at $140 for the Fibaro your device is probably a little cheaper? The up-side of the Fibaro though is you have a second relay there you can use for switching something else - perhaps a low voltage LED for garage lighting?



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  Reply # 1221151 23-Jan-2015 21:44
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MadEngineer: Just for safety and my own piece of mind - would rather not be found to be giving advise on what was found to be your last post!

Especially when you're questioning something so basic. Would you let someone drive your car on their own if they asked how to turn the key?


fair enough, I was just wondering why as if I was missing something.

I was 99.9999% sure I had it right, but wasn't sure the colours were standard since I just cut a pc power cord.  Its 3 wires in total, only 2 are connected, its not difficult, its more about getting which wire is which. 

Just wanted to triple check I had it right.

Heres the enclosure and the device, the Live and Neutral screw into the 2 bottom slots.








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  Reply # 1221153 23-Jan-2015 21:46
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Blanch: Reven

what are you using for remotes? my current key fob remotes need to be replaced?


it will work with both the standard remote that operates my garage door and be controllable from my vera/z-wave.  I will eventually just open it from my phone or smart watch (probably wait for second generation android wear before getting a smart watch).  

I mostly wanted it as a way to let people into the house, if someone needs to get in (family/friends) when I'm out, they can call me and I can remotely open the door.  I have a few camera's around the house to see whats going on.



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  Reply # 1221156 23-Jan-2015 21:51
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SumnerBoy: Just wondering what this device does that is different to a standard 2x1.5kW relay from Fibaro? These can be wired up so that they are powered by either 240VAC or 24VDC, and can then switch a separate voltage - i.e. a low voltage garage door opener circuit.

I guess it is the nice packaging/enclosure which makes it a bit easier to install?

I can imagine installing a Fibaro 2x1.5kW relay inside the opener motor unit would be relatively easy though - with it being wired up to the DC side of the motor and switching the opener button in parallel like your device is doing. At least then you wouldn't have to be dealing with mains voltage.

But at $140 for the Fibaro your device is probably a little cheaper? The up-side of the Fibaro though is you have a second relay there you can use for switching something else - perhaps a low voltage LED for garage lighting?


Looking at the device it just appears to be a nice enclosure, I'm not knowlegable enough about the device to know if the control unit is standard or not.

I also have a heat pump zoning unit (that just turns on/off the heat pump flow to the living area) that I would want to connect up to z-wave.  This isn't like a light switch and can't be connected like such.   Its basically just a on/off button I believe so adding a z-wave controller unit is difficult since it might get out of sync to what is on/off.  I might ask bug you via email if you have any insight as to control this via wifi.  My initial thought was using another garage door controller (since it just connects to the 2 wires), but that wont know the state and could be easily get the on/off states reversed.

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  Reply # 1221183 23-Jan-2015 22:42
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Not exactly sure what you mean about the heating controller, but I am sure we can come up with something to enable you to automate it! Flick me an email with some details when you get a chance. And good luck with your garage door opener - that is one of the first things I automated and it is definitely still one of the most used parts of my automation system. There has been numerous times when I have needed to let some one in when I am away - so easy now!



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  Reply # 1221296 24-Jan-2015 11:04
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well I got it to work without killing myself, thanks everyone.

SumnerBoy, I'm going to bug you about a Aeon recessed door sensor and vera lite, can't get the thing to configure (left it for days right next to the vera and constantly tripped it.  I've opened a ticket with vera but their support is super slow, you might have some insight as to get it working.

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  Reply # 1221331 24-Jan-2015 12:41
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The colours are standard, but (not affecting you this time) note that China kettle plugs have L and N swapped so 1) you can't trust the letters embossed on kettle plugs and 2) you can create earth loops (interference) and safety issues if you do use a kettle plug from unknown origin (2$ shop, eBay purchase, etc.).  I've bought a stage light with a kettle plug and socket (for daisy chaining power), and internally L and N was swapped between the plug/socket because the socket was the Chinese variant and connections were made according to the embossing.  But even worse, earth was not connected through not connected to the earth terminal on the internal power supply (was an LED light).




You can never have enough Volvos!


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  Reply # 1221348 24-Jan-2015 13:14
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^^^

Looks a bit dodgy to me. Is there no cord grip for the 230 volt power cord?




Whatifthespacekeyhadneverbeeninvented?




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  Reply # 1221357 24-Jan-2015 13:33
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You usually just put those square boxes inside behind light switches etc, they seem to have just made an enclosure for it, wired up a pair/unpair z-wave button and it exposed 2 wires to trigger a push pulse.  I figured using a power cable that plugged into a socket was safer than connecting a wire from behind the socket that went into the enclosure.  

I used a PC power cable that allowed another cable to plugged into the plug so now that plugs into the ceiling power plug and the garage door opener plugs into that, saved me from putting a double plug up.  ideally it should of just come with a power cord already, but oh well.

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