LED Lighting

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › LED Lighting

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#89565 5-Sep-2011 14:58

Hi There!

I have been thinking about replacing my CFL with LED Lighting. I like about 100W per Socket for the main rooms but it seems that most of the major manafacturers are able to get to about 60W right now. I saw one guy at the show with a 8W LED and he claimed 100W equivilent but I wasn't sure.

On of my staff said LED Lighting was hard to work with due to something to do with it's uneven wave form or something, and said that as far as he was concerned flourescant non flicker lighting was the best kind of lighting followed by traditional lights (Non energy efficient ones).

I was curious to know what others had to say.

I like cold white light in my work areas (Home Office/Kitchen) The rest of the places warm white light.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | ... | 47

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516882 5-Sep-2011 15:03

I found these:
http://www.greenandmore.com/evolux-hi-output-led-light-bulbs.html

Do they need to be certified to work in NZ?

AliExpress

Shop now on AliExpress (affiliate link).

boby55

1539 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#516883 5-Sep-2011 15:05

LED's are typically only good for "Cool White" as the Amber (Warm White) isn't as bright yet.

Converting Traditional light sockets to LEDs can be expensive as you have to get power converters usually something in the range from 240v to 24v which LEDs work on.

I can't help you too much with what your staff member said tho sorry. I have LEDs installed in my house but they were installed when it was built so we have lots of them per room.

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516885 5-Sep-2011 15:07

Oh, so it's not just a case of physically installing them into the existing socket? That's a shame.

Jaxson

8006 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#516886 5-Sep-2011 15:09

Our eyes do perceive LED lighting differently, at a real biology level - cones and rods sorta stuff.

The argument is that you therefore don't need as much of it to appear the same. At a standards / audit level I don't know how that's going to stand up in court though.

example document

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516888 5-Sep-2011 15:13

Wow that document is some seriously technical jargon, someone much smarter than me in this area obviously put it together.

All I want to know is what I need to get it going, will it have a positive or negative impact on how I work, and is it overall a good or bad thing to get it :)

boby55

1539 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#516889 5-Sep-2011 15:14

networkn: Oh, so it's not just a case of physically installing them into the existing socket? That's a shame.

I do believe some manufactures produce ones that fit into existing sockets but cost more, as instead of having one power for each lighting circuit, they have to put one in each light itself, Naturally raising each bulbs cost.

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516893 5-Sep-2011 15:16

Hmm I might check that out.

jjnz1

1356 posts

Uber Geek

Lifetime subscriber

#516907 5-Sep-2011 15:31

The LED lighting industry is like the computer industry a few years back. It's development progresses exponentially over time.

6 months ago, it was hard to get 'warm white' LED lighting, but now it is much easier. Just go and talk to your local lighting wholesaler, (not lighting direct etc), but more like ECC, Advance Electrical, Egleys etc.

And yes, LED lamps now come in retrofitting types, and can also closely match incandescent lamps.
But unfortunately NZ is again last to receive this kind of technology.

See: http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/lightcommunity/trends/led/masterled.wpd

The Philips Masterled range is what your after, its expensive and in limited supply here in NZ, but the color range is perfect.

They do:
7w GU10 (=50w GU10 230volt halogen)
7w MR16 (=50w MR16 12volt halogen lamp)
16w PAR38 (=75w par38 outdoor spot lamp)
8w es or bc lamp (=40w es or bc incandescent lamp)

I have also heard from the supplier that they are trialling bigger LED wattage lamps as well, so give it another 6 months or so and we should be able to match a 75w ES or BC lamp.

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516912 5-Sep-2011 15:33

jjnz: thanks. 7W won't do it for me, I want 13W I think. I am happy to get them from overseas.

jjnz1

1356 posts

Uber Geek

Lifetime subscriber

#516915 5-Sep-2011 15:34

boby55:
I do believe some manufactures produce ones that fit into existing sockets but cost more, as instead of having one power for each lighting circuit, they have to put one in each light itself, Naturally raising each bulbs cost.

What do you mean one power?

jjnz1

1356 posts

Uber Geek

Lifetime subscriber

#516922 5-Sep-2011 15:43

networkn: jjnz: thanks. 7W won't do it for me, I want 13W I think. I am happy to get them from overseas.

No worries ;).

Here are some more local links I found using Google for a (75w) 10 Watt LED ES lamp:

http://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/ecommerce.php?func=14&DCI=62&DPT=p&DPI=2257&S=6af89a4c98efe0e44bb2e3fb408f5b4a

Most people figure out that LED's are still quite an expensive solution, and that a normal power saving (CFL) lamp is probably better for incandescent downlights. -24w power saving for 125watts of light. Plus the lamps are only $8 etc.

networkn

Networkn
32198 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516927 5-Sep-2011 15:52

I don't care within reason of the cost, you can always get more money, a little harder to get ourselves a new planet, plus it fits in to my gadget category budget :)

richms

27973 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#516929 5-Sep-2011 15:53

LED has shockingly bad colour rendering when it is efficient, and when it has good colour rendering its worse efficiency than a good fluro.

Retrofitting lamps made to replace an incandesnet GLS lamp will always suck. look at all the issues with poor light distribution etc from spiral energy savers - and those are sources much closer to the distribution from a frosted GLS A sized lamp than any LED retrofit will ever do.

IMO skip the drop in replacement lamps, you will never compete with a 100W incandesent for output in that small space as the LEDs cant get hot. Also avoid any lamps that have seperate LED units on them as you will get multiple shadows off things that look really bad and almost like a 3d tv without the glasses on type effect.

Richard rich.ms

Jaxson

8006 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#516943 5-Sep-2011 16:04

Thanks jjnz1.

I'm looking to see a run down of Philips offerings soon at work.

There were some interesting points to note though with replacing lamps but not fittings. There is some often overlooked physical issue with light not being able to pass through a CFL lamp. It sounds weird, but if you shine a light at a fluro tube, your light doesn't pass through it very well.

In itself that's not very interesting, but a lot of existing downlight fittings were designed for the older lamps, and reflect light back through the lamp. If you replace the lamp with a CFL one, then a lot of the reflected light up the top doesn't get out into the room anymore. Before it would shine up, hit the shiny reflective fitting and then bounce back down and out through the original lamp.

You can get down light fittings designed for CFL lamps, but if you look at them they are far bigger diameter circles to allow for wider reflection paths down past the CFL lamp, not through it. Anyway, just something to think about.

jonherries

1385 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Subscriber

#516949 5-Sep-2011 16:19

There is a good article in the latest wired magazine that talks about LED bulbs.

Jon

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | ... | 47