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geekIT

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#298627 2-Jul-2022 15:35
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Recently purchased a Goldair 2400W Micathermic heater. I want to run it through a timer so that it turns on and off at pre-set intervals. What sort of timer should I get? I ask because I have an idea that fairly high-drain devices like this 2400W heater require special timers.

 

EDIT: It'll be the only device on the power point.





'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

 

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

 

 

 

 

 

 


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  #2937535 2-Jul-2022 15:53
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Doesn’t help you now but I had the same dilemma a few years back. I decided to spend a bit more on a unit that had a built in timer.

I can only advise to read the specs on them carefully and make sure whichever you pick can handle the power, current draw.



timmmay
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  #2937537 2-Jul-2022 16:05
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$15 digital timers at M10 work fine. Or these ones on special apparently have 16 amp relays

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/esphome-au-plug

MarkM536
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  #2937548 2-Jul-2022 16:52
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2,400W is the max a standard NZ 10A plug socket can do.

 

So any timer should do a minimum of 10A.




mattwnz
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  #2937550 2-Jul-2022 17:34
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geekIT:

 

Recently purchased a Goldair 2400W Micathermic heater. I want to run it through a timer so that it turns on and off at pre-set intervals. What sort of timer should I get? I ask because I have an idea that fairly high-drain devices like this 2400W heater require special timers.

 

EDIT: It'll be the only device on the power point.

 

 

 

 

There are heaters  that have timers built in, probably for this reason. They usually seem to be oil radiators as I have one that has a timer for this reason.  So if you can return it, you could replace it with one that has an inbuilt timer.


robjg63
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  #2937552 2-Jul-2022 17:57
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This for ~$5

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/click-24-hour-mechanical-timer_p0255499

 

Or this for ~$11

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/click-24hr-7day-digital-timer_p0255500

 

The second one is trickier to set up - It has been on the market for years - why the 'up' is on the left and the 'down' is on the right is odd - Still works ok though.

 

As mentioned above 'any' timer should be good for 10A. That's the standard max of an NZ power outlet.





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rb99
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  #2937555 2-Jul-2022 18:17
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I guess its a dumb question, but what happens if you have more than the heater plugged into a socket ?

 

I don't mean two heaters, even I know thats not a good idea, but say you have a laptop and monitor plugged in into a multiplug, pulling not very much, and you decide to add a heater. Do people really sit down and add up the number of watts in real life...





“The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness.” -John Kenneth Galbraith

 

rb99


MadEngineer
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  #2937563 2-Jul-2022 18:40
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Jesus will add up the watts and smite you shall you sin.




You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

 
 
 

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MarkM536
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  #2937564 2-Jul-2022 18:46
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rb99:

 

I guess its a dumb question, but what happens if you have more than the heater plugged into a socket ?

 

I don't mean two heaters, even I know thats not a good idea, but say you have a laptop and monitor plugged in into a multiplug, pulling not very much, and you decide to add a heater. Do people really sit down and add up the number of watts in real life...

 

 

You would hope that 10A is a tested max and that it could handle handle like 12A before issues. Plug probably gets a little warm and extreme case it may melt.

 

My house and many others have multiple sockets on one breaker, such as all sockets per room. I presume 16A or 20A is the standard for a circuit of sockets.

 

Breakers pop when it's more than their trip current... so you could easily draw more than 10A from a socket and the breaker wouldn't pop (until you reach the trip current).

 

^I'm no sparky.


timmmay
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  #2937566 2-Jul-2022 19:08
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Poor quality fittings can melt or catch fire under heavy load. Just use some common sense and you'll be fine

rb99
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  #2937567 2-Jul-2022 19:12
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Thanks people.

 

I like to think I use common sense, hopefully the wiring agrees with me...





“The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness.” -John Kenneth Galbraith

 

rb99


qwertee
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  #2937648 2-Jul-2022 23:00
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I would suggest a digital timer .   Runs silent, bit fiddly to program. Retains settings even when unplugged

 

The mechanical one that came with an oil heater I had, had a distinctive clicking sound as the clock mechanism operated.
Very annoying to run in the bedroom.

 

I use this for a floor lamp and lights for the fish pond. But never  ran a high wattage appliance like what the OP wants to.
https://hpm.co.nz/product/digital-timer-7-day-1-min-p/


Beavis
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  #2937765 3-Jul-2022 09:24
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I use a Wi-Fi controlled switch. As low as $23 or as high as $39 depending on make.
Make a few rules in the app on your phone, all good to go. Allows for daylight automatically, and if it gets really cold, I just call out “Hey Google, turn on the heater!”

timmmay
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  #2937774 3-Jul-2022 10:00
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I ran a 2000W fan heater for ages with "digital timer white" from Mitre10 - you can't link to their website products for some reason. Similar to the HPM one above. $15. I use TP-Link Kasa now, but will get some of the Athom ones soon.


tweake
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  #2937880 3-Jul-2022 13:44
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rb99:

 

I guess its a dumb question, but what happens if you have more than the heater plugged into a socket ?

 

I don't mean two heaters, even I know thats not a good idea, but say you have a laptop and monitor plugged in into a multiplug, pulling not very much, and you decide to add a heater. Do people really sit down and add up the number of watts in real life...

 

 

a lot of multi boards have built in circuit breakers, so if you add to much load its going to trip well before any damage is done.

 

a lot of heaters are not 2400w, plenty of them are 1000-2000w range. biggest problem that i used to see is cheap sockets which make poor contact and usually end up melting around the pin area.

 

 

 

also people are stupid. i once threw out a customers melted double adapter. i went back for a repair 6 months later and they had fished it out of the bin and reused it.


MadEngineer
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  #2937886 3-Jul-2022 14:05
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FWIW: Copy+Paste from one of the various models of "Goldair 2400W Micathermic heater"

 

 

 

WARNING: Do not use this heater with a programmer, separate timer,
remote-control system or any other device that switches the heater on
automatically, since a fire risk exists if the heater is covered or positioned
incorrectly.
WARNING:Never leave this heater unattended when in use

 

 

 

• It is recommended that this appliance is plugged directly into the wall socket.
Power boards are not rated to supply power to high wattage appliances. 

 

 

 

 





You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

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