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Simple solution: String.
Or
Get a bit of hard board that's a bit larger that your hole, cut a 10mm slot about halfway into it and fix it over your hole with the cable in the slot.
Or
Just use a piece of string.
Goosey:
Another curious question is, why is there a shelf above the fridge cavity? Don’t you need some ventilation?
or is the ventilation behind that and the power point is being mounted in cupboard as opposed to being on the wallboard?
FYI - The ventilation is at the bottom of the fridge and a provided grill is installed in the 'kick board'. This is our second set of integrated fridge/freezers and both use/used a grill. Don't ask me how it works. Our first set lasted 35 years.
PC: Dell Inspiron 16 5640 (Windows 11 Home), Dell Inspiron 7591 2n1 (Windows 11 Pro), HP ProBook 470G1 (Windows 10 Pro), Intel NUC7I5BNH (Zorin)
Net: Grandstream 1 x GWN7062 Router, 1 x GWN7665 Access Point
Storage: Synology DS216play NAS, 2 x 6TB
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mdf:
How big is the hole? You can get 60mm and 80mm grommets easily.
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/taskmaster-60mm-white-cable-duct-6-pack_p0728457
Imperial sizes you'd need to get online.
The hardest part of searching for a product such as mentioned in your post is terminology.
I have now come across grommet, cable outlet, cable duct ...
I think the hole is 60mm. What I cannot fathom is "do all these products have a pull-out section, so that the plug can fit inside the collar and then a cap to go on top (with cutout) to stop the plug and cable going down the centre. The products I have looked at don't mention a pull-out section.
PC: Dell Inspiron 16 5640 (Windows 11 Home), Dell Inspiron 7591 2n1 (Windows 11 Pro), HP ProBook 470G1 (Windows 10 Pro), Intel NUC7I5BNH (Zorin)
Net: Grandstream 1 x GWN7062 Router, 1 x GWN7665 Access Point
Storage: Synology DS216play NAS, 2 x 6TB
Media: 3 x Amazon FireTV. Echo, Dot, Spot
TV: 2 x Samsung H6400 55" LED TV, Panasonic TH-P50G10Z 50" Plasma TV
Mobile: Samsung Galaxy A52 5G
Wearable: Gear S3 Frontier
alisam:
The hardest part of searching for a product such as mentioned in your post is terminology.
I have now come across grommet, cable outlet, cable duct ...
I think the hole is 60mm. What I cannot fathom is "do all these products have a pull-out section, so that the plug can fit inside the collar and then a cap to go on top (with cutout) to stop the plug and cable going down the centre. The products I have looked at don't mention a pull-out section.
The caps you speak of come in two pieces.
the cap ( removable, its like a half circle that swivels around) and then the collar as you say which fits thru the hole in the shelf.
so, you place the collar, pull thru the plug, then place on the half circle.
alisam:
The hardest part of searching for a product such as mentioned in your post is terminology.
I have now come across grommet, cable outlet, cable duct ...
I think the hole is 60mm. What I cannot fathom is "do all these products have a pull-out section, so that the plug can fit inside the collar and then a cap to go on top (with cutout) to stop the plug and cable going down the centre. The products I have looked at don't mention a pull-out section.
I've only ever seen them in two parts. They are designed to take power cords and you couldn't get a power cord through without the central section being removable.
alisam:
RunningMan:
When would this ever be a problem? Most likely never unplug it unless the appliance was being pulled out.
Because I have a generator and could easily unplug the appliances and run an extension lead to the generator.
Maybe you should just get a Generator input and changeover switch added to your house. Then you won't need to unplug anything.
djtOtago:
Maybe you should just get a Generator input and changeover switch added to your house. Then you won't need to unplug anything.
Huge cost if you want to have selective loads on it, second panel and more home runs of power circuits to places, all to cover the once every few years events that you can take care of with a couple of 25m extension cords and a window you can partially open securely.
Only need to be selective about what you turn on.
I can run the house on a 3kw Generator. Just don't run the washing machine and the dishwasher at the same time. Don't turn on every light in the house. Just a bit of discipline is required.
richms:
Huge cost if you want to have selective loads on it, second panel and more home runs of power circuits to places, all to cover the once every few years events that you can take care of with a couple of 25m extension cords and a window you can partially open securely.
I did this during the cyclone. Worked fine. Amazing what you can accomplish with a long enough extension cord.
Plesse igmore amd axxept applogies in adbance fir anu typos
djtOtago:
Maybe you should just get a Generator input and changeover switch added to your house. Then you won't need to unplug anything.
I have a Briggs and Stratton P3000 Generator. I do know about a switch; I just don't see the need to pay for it to be done.
I have tested the generator using extension leads and power boards (or whatever they are called) and I can power enough appliances to keep me going.
PC: Dell Inspiron 16 5640 (Windows 11 Home), Dell Inspiron 7591 2n1 (Windows 11 Pro), HP ProBook 470G1 (Windows 10 Pro), Intel NUC7I5BNH (Zorin)
Net: Grandstream 1 x GWN7062 Router, 1 x GWN7665 Access Point
Storage: Synology DS216play NAS, 2 x 6TB
Media: 3 x Amazon FireTV. Echo, Dot, Spot
TV: 2 x Samsung H6400 55" LED TV, Panasonic TH-P50G10Z 50" Plasma TV
Mobile: Samsung Galaxy A52 5G
Wearable: Gear S3 Frontier
Partly fill the hole, with some sort of removable slotted plug that the cord will pass through, but not the plug.
These guys probably have something suitable. Or maybe you know someone with a 3D printer.
Mike
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