Nissan LEAF - General

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#2721177 9-Jun-2021 11:59

You were looking at a car that was not from an auction. Means no auction fees, and the FOB shipping term means you don't need to pay domestic freight either.

Still don't see how you can get rid of the rest of the costs? Perhaps some agents charge lower fees and have access to cheaper shipping?

Regarding Beforward, the shipping terms there are CIF (Under CIF (short for “Cost, Insurance and Freight”), the seller delivers the goods, cleared for export, onboard the vessel at the port of shipment, pays for the transport of the goods to the port of destination, and also obtains and pays for minimum insurance coverage on the goods through their journey to the named).

I.e. they get it to Auckland, and nothing else. You would need to arrange to get it through customs / MPI / Compliance, trucked off the wharf, and the biggie pay GST at 15%.

goweed

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#2721188 9-Jun-2021 12:13

Scott3:

You were looking at a car that was not from an auction. Means no auction fees, and the FOB shipping term means you don't need to pay domestic freight either.

Still don't see how you can get rid of the rest of the costs? Perhaps some agents charge lower fees and have access to cheaper shipping?

Regarding Beforward, the shipping terms there are CIF (Under CIF (short for “Cost, Insurance and Freight”), the seller delivers the goods, cleared for export, onboard the vessel at the port of shipment, pays for the transport of the goods to the port of destination, and also obtains and pays for minimum insurance coverage on the goods through their journey to the named).

I.e. they get it to Auckland, and nothing else. You would need to arrange to get it through customs / MPI / Compliance, trucked off the wharf, and the biggie pay GST at 15%.

I recently had a quote from AutoHub. $1550 incl GST from Japan auction house pick up, to NZ compliance center including all domestic transport both sides / shipping costs / port fees / full insurance while in their care / MAF fees.

tripper1000

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#2721274 9-Jun-2021 15:49

mrhaboobi: Interesting comment on the 15A heat issues, are you talking about the wall socket or the power pack itself overheating? and was that mainly an issue with the Gen 1 ( square pack ) or the gen 2 ( longer rectangular pack )

What i was told is that the second gen power pack was actually labelled as 200V 15Amp, but that is was over spec'd internally so therefore was suitable as a 230V pack. Infact I believe some companies went at far as to relabel the packs to have a 230V compatible sticker applied? Potentially this information is incorrect. i was also told the gen 1 packs did overheat and have issues as you describe as they were not overspec'd

I was also told that a 16Amp caravan plug wasn't designed for continuous use due to over heating aswell. Huh.. funny how you get different information from different people...

Yes i could spend 600 on a new pack :) but im trying to reuse something i potentially have access to for significantly less IF its safe to do so.

Cheers

@mrhaboobi what you are proposing is a temperary solution - anything rated at 200v won't last forever.

I don't know where you have gotten the information about the different generations being different voltages. Possibly someone is getting confused between the American/Japan versions (200v) and the rest of the world version (240v). I have pulled apart 3 different rectangular packs of 2 different designs (narrower and broader) ex Japan and they definately all had 200v internals.

The only part that isn't rated to 230v is a small transformer, and when it goes it simply stops. No fire, no smoke, no visual evidence of overheating - it just quits. I use one of these packs as my emergency backup EVSE and have probably used it for 20 or 30 hours total in the last 4 years with no issues, although I know it isn't going to last forever. I figure once the 200v transformer goes, I will replace it with a 230v unit. I wouldn't be too concerned about using one with regard to catastrophic failure, however you should be saving up for a proper 230v EVSE because anything rated to 200v will quit on you eventually. Maybe you will get lucky and it lasts for a couple of years or maybe it will only last a couple of months.

The blue 16 amps plugs are far better than the 15a flat pin plugs. I would need to take off my shoes and socks to count the number of melted 15amp plugs I've seen in my time. I have seen a couple of 16amp plugs melt, but not with electric cars. It was caused by corroded pins and loose sockets (think flogged out, corroded salty sockets in boat marinas). If the plugs and sockets are in decent condition, they handle 16 amps all day long (mostly). I believe the current rating of the round pin plugs is at an ambient temp of 25 deg C and for 8 hours. If the plug is hotter than this (eg in the sunshine) or you a drawing currents longer than this (eg with a Tesla) you can get into overheating territory. To account for this, there are rules with EVSE in various jurisdictions where EVSE have to derate and not use the max current the plug can handle in order to avoid overheating, unless the EVSE has temperature monitoring in the plug. For example using a normal 10 amp 3 pin plug, and EVSE is only allowed to draw 8 amps max, unless it has temperature monitoring and then it is allowed to draw 10 amps. This is also why you are not suppose to use extension cords - the EVSE can monitor the temperature of the extension cord female, but it can't detect (and reduce current draw) when the male end is overheating/burning. I think the EVSE limits for 16amp plugs is 14amps when it doesn't have temperature monitoring, but don't quote me on that(?).

When I converted my Japanese 200v EVSE to a blue plug, I made sure that I also move the temperature sensor over to the new plug. I could have spoofed it with a resistor, but why do it wrong when I can do it proper? Already cutting one corner, no need to cut two

mrhaboobi

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#2721278 9-Jun-2021 16:02

tripper1000:

@mrhaboobi what you are proposing is a temperary solution - anything rated at 200v won't last forever.

I don't know where you have gotten the information about the different generations being different voltages. Possibly someone is getting confused between the American/Japan versions (200v) and the rest of the world version (240v). I have pulled apart 3 different rectangular packs of 2 different designs (narrower and broader) ex Japan and they definately all had 200v internals.

The only part that isn't rated to 230v is a small transformer, and when it goes it simply stops. No fire, no smoke, no visual evidence of overheating - it just quits. I use one of these packs as my emergency backup EVSE and have probably used it for 20 or 30 hours total in the last 4 years with no issues, although I know it isn't going to last forever. I figure once the 200v transformer goes, I will replace it with a 230v unit. I wouldn't be too concerned about using one with regard to catastrophic failure, however you should be saving up for a proper 230v EVSE because anything rated to 200v will quit on you eventually. Maybe you will get lucky and it lasts for a couple of years or maybe it will only last a couple of months.

The blue 16 amps plugs are far better than the 15a flat pin plugs. I would need to take off my shoes and socks to count the number of melted 15amp plugs I've seen in my time. I have seen a couple of 16amp plugs melt, but not with electric cars. It was caused by corroded pins and loose sockets (think flogged out, corroded salty sockets in boat marinas). If the plugs and sockets are in decent condition, they handle 16 amps all day long (mostly). I believe the current rating of the round pin plugs is at an ambient temp of 25 deg C and for 8 hours. If the plug is hotter than this (eg in the sunshine) or you a drawing currents longer than this (eg with a Tesla) you can get into overheating territory. To account for this, there are rules with EVSE in various jurisdictions where EVSE have to derate and not use the max current the plug can handle in order to avoid overheating, unless the EVSE has temperature monitoring in the plug. For example using a normal 10 amp 3 pin plug, and EVSE is only allowed to draw 8 amps max, unless it has temperature monitoring and then it is allowed to draw 10 amps. This is also why you are not suppose to use extension cords - the EVSE can monitor the temperature of the extension cord female, but it can't detect (and reduce current draw) when the male end is overheating/burning. I think the EVSE limits for 16amp plugs is 14amps when it doesn't have temperature monitoring, but don't quote me on that(?).

When I converted my Japanese 200v EVSE to a blue plug, I made sure that I also move the temperature sensor over to the new plug. I could have spoofed it with a resistor, but why do it wrong when I can do it proper? Already cutting one corner, no need to cut two

Thank you thats a really helpful post :). if i can get a period of time out of a 200V unit then all good, im happy with that, with the understanding that i might need a new one at a point in time :) Im interested to know where the temp sensor was as most of the deconstructed pictures ive seen show no sensor? Would you have any details?

tripper1000

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#2727516 11-Jun-2021 20:44

mrhaboobi: Im interested to know where the temp sensor was as most of the deconstructed pictures ive seen show no sensor? Would you have any details?

If you check out the photo of the internals in dwl's post ( https://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=190723 ) in the top left corner there is a white rectangular plug with 2 yellow wires. I believe that is the thermistor connector for the power inlet plug. I guess most people lop the 110v plug off rather than carefully take it apart.

Scott3

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#2727535 11-Jun-2021 22:13

tripper1000:

If you check out the photo of the internals in dwl's post ( https://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=48&topicid=190723 ) in the top left corner there is a white rectangular plug with 2 yellow wires. I believe that is the thermistor connector for the power inlet plug. I guess most people lop the 110v plug off rather than carefully take it apart.

its a molded plug, so "carefully take apart", means carefully smashing with a hammer or vice.

I think a lot of people don't realize it is anything more than a simple plug untill it is cut and they see two additional wires.

al8565

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#2729263 15-Jun-2021 17:54

For (new shape) Leaf owners with ProPilot, how do you find it? Does it only work on motorways? The assisted parking I think I can live without, but adaptive cruise would be nice. Thanks...

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redfiat

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#2729662 16-Jun-2021 14:32

al8565:

For (new shape) Leaf owners with ProPilot, how do you find it? Does it only work on motorways? The assisted parking I think I can live without, but adaptive cruise would be nice. Thanks...

I've used it a few times, and slow speed and fast.

It works really well maintaining the gap in front.

If a car pulls into that gap it will slow down to rebuild it.

I turned off the steering assist as I just found it annoying. It is not like the Tesla auto pilot which is reading the street signs, map, etc to work out what to do - a Tesla will know to slow down for an intersection for example. ProPilot Steering just keeps you within the lane - and if you let go of the wheel it turns off so I don't really see the point of it apart from stopping you crossing the centre line if you are distracted.

al8565

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#2729683 16-Jun-2021 15:12

redfiat:

al8565:

For (new shape) Leaf owners with ProPilot, how do you find it? Does it only work on motorways? The assisted parking I think I can live without, but adaptive cruise would be nice. Thanks...

I've used it a few times, and slow speed and fast.

It works really well maintaining the gap in front.

If a car pulls into that gap it will slow down to rebuild it.

I turned off the steering assist as I just found it annoying. It is not like the Tesla auto pilot which is reading the street signs, map, etc to work out what to do - a Tesla will know to slow down for an intersection for example. ProPilot Steering just keeps you within the lane - and if you let go of the wheel it turns off so I don't really see the point of it apart from stopping you crossing the centre line if you are distracted.

Thanks for the reply. The ACC would be good, I'd probably turn off the auto steering too.

RogerMellie

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#2745502 17-Jul-2021 08:16

I've a 2014 LEAF (approx 37,xxx km) about 9 months into owning it and I now noticed two things:

I get squeaks from the suspension (rear-right only as far as I can tell) when I get in and out.

I've noticed the electric 'whine' from the motor while driving seems to have become louder/more noticeable when driving. (This isn't the artificial sound that is generated as I always turn that off)

Has anyone else had this experience with theirs?

tripper1000

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#2747173 20-Jul-2021 15:37

2013 with 80,000km's here.

No noises from suspension here - it probably just has a dry bushing or similar. If it changes to a clunking or affects handling you need to see a mechanic, but a squeak on its own is nothing to panic about.

Inverter whine hasn't changed although I hate that sound. I find you notice it sometimes more than others. It tends to reflect off hard surfaces so when your window is down you hear it more. It's quite if driving on grass but loud in a car park building or when next to a wall or passing a parked truck etc.

PolicyGuy

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#2747237 20-Jul-2021 16:49

tripper1000:

Inverter whine hasn't changed although I hate that sound. I find you notice it sometimes more than others. It tends to reflect off hard surfaces so when your window is down you hear it more. It's quite if driving on grass but loud in a car park building or when next to a wall or passing a parked truck etc.

Easy fix: get old(er) and lose the ability to hear top end frequencies.

"INVERTER WHINE? WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT SONNY? I CAN'T HEAR NO WHINING EXCEPT FROM YOU"
Abe Simpson Abe Simpson Cloud GIF - AbeSimpson AbeSimpsonCloud YellingCloud GIFs

;-)

RogerMellie

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#2778795 15-Sep-2021 14:55

I recently fitted some new foot mats, and on the drivers side I have now noticed a very small drip mark directly underneath the brake pedal area. The liquid has no discernible colour or smell, but it is definitely a very small leak of something.

This would be pretty difficult to notice/identify if you do not have plastic mats that show up the leak, but has anyone here noticed this with their LEAF? Mine is a 2014 model, approx 49,xxx kms.

I can't get upside down and far enough into the footwell to properly identify location of leak, so will be leaving it to car dealer when it goes in for its first WOF & service next month.

tripper1000

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#2778812 15-Sep-2021 15:27

Do you notice it after being parked in the rain? If so it is possibly a windscreen leak. There aren't many avenues through the firewall for rain in the Leaf. It could be A/C condensation - keep a mental note of when it leaks vs rain and A/C usage. My windscreen leaks on the passenger side due to a bad replacement job. It leaks at the top and leaves a tell-tail watermark down the inside of windshield that you can see on sunny days.

Be careful, my Leaf leak used to be much worse (liters and liters not a drip) and got into a plug and scrambled the car up. 3 blue charging lights were illuminating when driving etc. I had the car interior in 100 pieces and couldn't locate it and found it in the end by hosing one small section of the car at a time and observing on the inside. It was coming into the car behind the passenger sun visor, but it was dripping out by the passenger kick panel, so water can track a meter or two from the source.

RogerMellie

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#2778827 15-Sep-2021 15:50

Thanks for the tip. I will check for watertightness as I did indeed have a replacement windscreen fitted in Feb/March. The car is garaged 99% of the time, but of course driving in the rain could be all it needs to manifest.

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