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Paul1977
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  #3395408 18-Jul-2025 18:33
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mdf:

 

Understand where you're coming from, but I've also got sympathy for Bambu's position. For waste minimisation, it's awesome that they drove the shift to reusable spools and offer refill-only options. You get (I think?) one free spool with the printer and another 4 (5?) with an AMS, so plenty to get started. $25 for another spool isn't peanuts, but it will definitely do way more than 5 refills and so will easily pay for itself. And then they even open sourced the model so you can print your own...

 

I suspect that the novel and exotic filament is probably mainly targeted at enthusiasts who alread have spools; selling a spool-in option could make those SKUs pretty slow to move and end up with waste. That said, offering a "add a spool for (say) another $10" sales option could reduce the SKUs even further.

 

I've seen generic reusable spools on the usual marketplaces for about half the price of genuine Bambu ones. Haven't tried these myself since I'm happy with the Bambu ones I have. But might be worthwhile investigating if you're in a bit of an edge usage scenario. 

 

What are you doing for a dry box to keep all those open spools as dry as possible?

 

 

@mdf I agree that making the spools reusable is a good move, as is the refill-only option. But having filaments that you can't purchase on a spool is annoying, and I'm unlikely to change my view on that.

 

The ones I'm talking about aren't exotic filaments; it's just some new colours they added to their PLA Matte range at the beginning of the year. I don't think I'm an edge case, I probably just complain more!

 

Sure a $25 spool will last more than 5 refills, but you can't use it for 5 different filaments at once! And I'm not paying $25 for a spool that most of the time is included for only $5 (for Basic and Matte PLA it's $35 for refill, $40 spool included) and also isn't even available locally so would have to pay additional shipping.

 

I have two 50L gasketed (so should be airtight) storage bins with a good amount of indicating (orange to green) desiccant in a mesh bag in each. Have a Z-Wave humidity sensor in one of them that consistently reads around 9% (am working on the assumption the other will be about the same as long as the desiccant remains orange).

 

Printed a desiccant kit for AMS to hold more than the standard little trays, so AMS consistently reports 5% humidity or less.




geoffwnz
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  #3395419 18-Jul-2025 19:23
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Dry-ish box for me is multiple 27 litre Sistema containers.  They fit 8 spools in a 4x2 layout.  Spools are put back into the ziplock bags with desiccant packs both in the bags and the boxes.  Seems to mostly work sufficiently.

 

Looking forward to printing the AeroDry 2.0 when the STL's get released and running the filament from that.





geoffwnz
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  #3396666 23-Jul-2025 21:09
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And from the little Ender 3 that could....

 

Switched from Cura slicer to OrcaSlicer last week and also reflashed the printer firmware with the latest Marlin build.

 

Then spent quite a few days recalibrating everything and learning how to work Orca and generate filament profiles that worked.

 

Topped that off today by printing a tolerance tower in PLA+ and the ring went cleanly right up to the top, giving me a 0.15mm clearance.  Totally surprised given my best previous effort was a struggled 0.2 if I pushed it hard enough, so basically 0.3.

 

So it's no longer slow and rough, now just slow.  :-)

 

Probably learned more about it in the last week than the previous 5 years of fiddling around.







Silvrav

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  #3396726 24-Jul-2025 09:02
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geoffwnz:

 

And from the little Ender 3 that could....

 

Switched from Cura slicer to OrcaSlicer last week and also reflashed the printer firmware with the latest Marlin build.

 

Then spent quite a few days recalibrating everything and learning how to work Orca and generate filament profiles that worked.

 

Topped that off today by printing a tolerance tower in PLA+ and the ring went cleanly right up to the top, giving me a 0.15mm clearance.  Totally surprised given my best previous effort was a struggled 0.2 if I pushed it hard enough, so basically 0.3.

 

So it's no longer slow and rough, now just slow.  :-)

 

Probably learned more about it in the last week than the previous 5 years of fiddling around.

 

 

 

 

Nice! well done. Its a rabbit hole indeed - countless youtube videos, reading of blogs etc etc etc.

 

 

 

I am now comfortable to print up to 0,15mm layers with no supports up to 70'. varying speeds will give me the detail I need and reluctantly have to admit PLA is the better filament for detail and good looking pieces. I have about 5 rolls of PETG that I will need to find something to use it for.


geoffwnz
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  #3396754 24-Jul-2025 10:10
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Silvrav:

 

geoffwnz:

 

And from the little Ender 3 that could....

 

Switched from Cura slicer to OrcaSlicer last week and also reflashed the printer firmware with the latest Marlin build.

 

Then spent quite a few days recalibrating everything and learning how to work Orca and generate filament profiles that worked.

 

Topped that off today by printing a tolerance tower in PLA+ and the ring went cleanly right up to the top, giving me a 0.15mm clearance.  Totally surprised given my best previous effort was a struggled 0.2 if I pushed it hard enough, so basically 0.3.

 

So it's no longer slow and rough, now just slow.  :-)

 

Probably learned more about it in the last week than the previous 5 years of fiddling around.

 

 

Nice! well done. Its a rabbit hole indeed - countless youtube videos, reading of blogs etc etc etc.

 

I am now comfortable to print up to 0,15mm layers with no supports up to 70'. varying speeds will give me the detail I need and reluctantly have to admit PLA is the better filament for detail and good looking pieces. I have about 5 rolls of PETG that I will need to find something to use it for.

 

 

Yeah, been down the rabbit hole more times than I can remember over the past 6 or so years with it.  Each time learning more.  But also now there's far more info available on it than when it was the new kid on the block, plus taking lessons from all the other printers to get the best out of it.

 

I had previously just accepted that it would forever print average quality at best.  Turns out I just needed to spend more time on the setup to dial things in.

 

Still need to fully dial in the ASA and a little bit more tweaking on PETG for the things I do need/want to print with those flavours, but have to say, PLA+ is pretty awesome for most general printing.





mrdrifter
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  #3399494 3-Aug-2025 11:54
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I'm 90% of the way through the Cyberpunk 2077 Malorian Arms 3516 for a gift and wondering does anyone in Wellington/Tawa/Porirua happen to have any left over Yellow and Red PLA by any chance? I need like 100gm of Red and ~30gms of Yellow for the project and don't really want to buy full roll if I can help it. 


geoffwnz
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  #3399529 3-Aug-2025 15:00
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mrdrifter:

 

I'm 90% of the way through the Cyberpunk 2077 Malorian Arms 3516 for a gift and wondering does anyone in Wellington/Tawa/Porirua happen to have any left over Yellow and Red PLA by any chance? I need like 100gm of Red and ~30gms of Yellow for the project and don't really want to buy full roll if I can help it. 

 

 

Used up the last of my red PLA last week.

 

Got red PLA+ currently and a roll of yellow PLA+ coming this week.  Might need to calibrate for it though as it does run slightly different to normal PLA.  That would burn through a bit more.

 

 





 
 
 

Trade NZ and US shares and funds with Sharesies (affiliate link).
mrdrifter
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  #3399531 3-Aug-2025 15:04
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I found some!

 

 

 

I've had pretty good luck with the eSun and CR PLA and PLA+ in the Anycubic S1 using their provided profiles. I'm up to 95 hours print time with only a couple of small issues that were mostly my fault.


Paul1977
5058 posts

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  #3399836 4-Aug-2025 10:57
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P1S is starting to get a little noisy, probably time for its first lot of maintenance. Lots of YouTube videos, so how hard can it be?

 

I'll take the opportunity to replace the stock stainless steel hot end and extruder with hardened steel ones at the same time.


mdf

mdf
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  #3399842 4-Aug-2025 11:22
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Paul1977:

 

P1S is starting to get a little noisy, probably time for its first lot of maintenance. Lots of YouTube videos, so how hard can it be?

 

I'll take the opportunity to replace the stock stainless steel hot end and extruder with hardened steel ones at the same time.

 

 

Don't be me. There are a couple of points that are (to me) counterintuitive. Notably only lubing the stainless shafts but absolutely not the carbon shafts. So read the wiki as you go.

 

Can also highly recommend Super Lube 51010 Precision Oiler.


Paul1977
5058 posts

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  #3399848 4-Aug-2025 11:52
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mdf:

 

Don't be me. There are a couple of points that are (to me) counterintuitive. Notably only lubing the stainless shafts but absolutely not the carbon shafts. So read the wiki as you go.

 

Can also highly recommend Super Lube 51010 Precision Oiler.

 

 

Thanks. I'd read about the carbon rods.

 

I was planning on just using sewing machine oil (since my partner already has some), and a syringe to get it into some of the trickier spots. Do you recommend that Super Lube mainly for the precision applicator, or another reason?

 

Still have several sachets of the supplied lithium grease for the threaded rods.


mdf

mdf
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  #3399867 4-Aug-2025 13:24
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Look, it is entirely possible Big Lube has me hook, line and sinker here, but it feels like Super Lube (PTFE/Teflon based) creates a much slicker, longer-lasting surface for rods and screws. Plus, being a more viscous grease, it actually stays where you put it instead of dripping away like thin mineral based 3-in-1 oil.

 

But whatever you use, you will definitely need some kind of fine applicator to get it into the right places. The Super Lube precision application you basically just take a lid off and squeeze so super easy.


mrdrifter
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  #3399869 4-Aug-2025 13:47
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mdf:

 

Look, it is entirely possible Big Lube has me hook, line and sinker here, but it feels like Super Lube (PTFE/Teflon based) creates a much slicker, longer-lasting surface for rods and screws. Plus, being a more viscous grease, it actually stays where you put it instead of dripping away like thin mineral based 3-in-1 oil.

 

But whatever you use, you will definitely need some kind of fine applicator to get it into the right places. The Super Lube precision application you basically just take a lid off and squeeze so super easy.

 

 

It's a really good option. I haven't had a need to use it on my printer yet, but I've been using both the thinner oil like version and the grease on some very fast moving mechanical action parts for 8+ years now and it's been working really well.


Paul1977
5058 posts

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  #3400596 7-Aug-2025 10:58
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mdf:

 

Look, it is entirely possible Big Lube has me hook, line and sinker here, but it feels like Super Lube (PTFE/Teflon based) creates a much slicker, longer-lasting surface for rods and screws. Plus, being a more viscous grease, it actually stays where you put it instead of dripping away like thin mineral based 3-in-1 oil.

 

But whatever you use, you will definitely need some kind of fine applicator to get it into the right places. The Super Lube precision application you basically just take a lid off and squeeze so super easy.

 

 

You've convinced me.

 

Picked up some of the Super Lube oil you recommended but went for the better value 118ml bottle and got some precision applicator bottles to transfer some into. Also got some of the thicker Super Lube grease for the lead screws.

 

Printed some Rod Sloths for cleaning the lead screws first, and an adapter tip for applying the grease (I went for the longer v2.1 adapter).

 

Now that I'm thoroughly over-prepared, in the weekend I plan to actually do the maintenance!


mdf

mdf
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  #3400602 7-Aug-2025 11:25
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😄

 

Another victim of the inevitable 3D printing hobby black hole gravity well. I'm sorry to tell you, you've crossed the event horizon and there is no escape from here.

 

I'd add to your preparations list:

 

  • More time than you think
  • A checklist of curse words (make sure you save some for the front idler rollers - worse bit IMHO)
  • Optional but recommended for said front idler rollers: a double jointed elbow and/or wrist
  • A small amount of stress and double think (is it really okay tipping it over on its side?)
  • Air compressor/air duster/canned air (some prefer electrical contact cleaner)
  • Head torch/work light

Good luck!


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