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Topic # 147299 15-Jun-2014 17:16
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Over the weekend, I've started a job to install a flashing system and some framing timber to support a new cladding system to our house.

This was the state of the brick cladding following the Feb 22 Chch 2011 Chch quake.

The brick has been removed, Batts installed in the external walls, then building wrap, then Ecoply.  The house was built with rimu 4x2 framing.  In those days there was no prefab laserframe, so it would have always been uneven, and of course with brick cladding, it didn't matter. I have repaired the foundation, including epoxy to inject small cracks, re-levelling the top of the foundation in conjunction with jacking floors level (maximum about 40mm) and replacing 8 foundation piles, a builder did the work replacing the piles.
With "leaky homes" the councils are absolutely anal about water-proofing.  My consented design required the following over the top of the foundation, before fitting a flashing system.  The top of the foundation has a tanking membrane applied, then there's a DPC, then under it is a 5 deg beveled H3.2 treated timber support.  This caused me a few nightmares, but I bit the bullet and bought a bench saw so I could rip timber as required.

Over this goes a a grade 5008 aluminium flashing.  A major problem with this is that the gap between the edge of the foundation and the framing varies.  I am getting the flashing supplied in custom sized folded sections.  This weekend was "test of principle" - I didn't know if it was going to work.

So there's the flashing in place (the flashing is dead straight - it looks not that way due to lens distortion), the new timber above are "extra" H3.2 battens needed to pack out over the framing, to allow 95mm for the depth of the new cladding, which is a custom poly/plaster system 75mm designed specifically for re-cladding of brick homes, attached over 20mm vertical battens on top of that timber.  The sheets are laid horizontally, staggered - so there are no full-height joins. The stud spacing isn't even - but about 450mm, so less than the 600mm maximum spacing I need.  As the flashing was going to obstruct the top of the sub-floor vents, and some of the vents had been broken, I replaced them all, and reset them down about 25mm.

This is the area where I installed the flashing system and the "battens" packing timber this weekend.  I used 4 string lines with 3mm spacers.  Each piece is a slightly different depth.  I had to pre-measure with a test jig I'd screw to the framing, then rip a 75x45 H3 to depth, then make "fine tuning" adjustments to allow for the bumps and curves in the original framing using an electric planer - and without bending the timber as it was fastened.  The battens are screwed into the 50YO rimu studs with 14 gauge self-drilling galv batten screws at minimum 300mm centres.  My old battery drill was not up to the task, so I bought an 18v brushless impact driver, which does the trick - no smoke has come out of it yet.

I have uncovered an issue with the consented plans - we'll need to change window jamb flashing details.  Not a big deal.
I'm happy I've got the packed framing +/- 1mm.  The framing was +/- 5mm.

I have other contractors coming this week to remove a 30m2 3m high concrete deck (this to be replaced with a timber deck).  The combined weight of the brick cladding, concrete deck, chimney etc was over 50 tonnes.  My objective since the EQ was to carry out repairs with additional strengthening and weight reduction a priority.  It just seemed crazy to me to not do this, but it sure as hell would have been easier to just re-brick it.

So all good - I'll meet with my builder over the next couple of days to work out how we'll organise to do the rest of the house (flashing/framing).  I'm also confident that the plans are workable, so can order materials.  He's just done a similar job, but using different materials and design, and like me was concerned that the architect / designer I used may have underestimated the difficulty.

I'm now happy it can be done.

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  Reply # 1066149 15-Jun-2014 19:33
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Nice work. What are you cladding with?

Baby Get Shaky!
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  Reply # 1066161 15-Jun-2014 19:53
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Fanicating stuff, keep us posted on the work in progress please. Our house is concrete brick and built like a brick outhouse so all we had to do externally was fill stepping and paint. Watched our neighbours across the road get half their brick external relayed, was quite a mission.

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  Reply # 1066173 15-Jun-2014 20:09
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Thanks.  The new cladding system is Cavt-E-Clad from Specialized Construction Products, although in some other areas which were clad in a vertical shiplap weatherboard, we will re-clad in Linea.
I looked at aerated cement panel systems, as well as weatherboard (incl. Linea) for the whole cladding system, but with the cavity depth to be bridged to line up with the foundation, and my wish to keep existing window/door joinery, then nothing was going to be easy.  
This house was designed by an architect in about 1962 as his own home.  We have owned it since 1990.  It survived quite well structurally.  Immediately adjacent are homes built in the 1950s, 1970s, and 2000's.  3 were total loss and have been demolished, one has been repaired at a cost of $700,000.  My budget - including improvements is about $250,000.

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  Reply # 1066176 15-Jun-2014 20:15
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Are you planning to re-clad the entire house or is it just one side?

If it is the entire house, are you doing it in stages?


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  Reply # 1066194 15-Jun-2014 20:41
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DarthKermit: Are you planning to re-clad the entire house or is it just one side?

If it is the entire house, are you doing it in stages?

The entire house.  The work I did over the weekend for preparation for cladding "feeling my way" was about 8 hours labour (and 8 hours experiments and getting materials etc), and about 10% of the total (excluding the actual fixing etc for the cladding), and about $250 materials.  In my costing. I'd allowed $10,000 for this, so I'm confident I can do it within budget.  I found a guy at a local timber yard who I get on with well.  He's going to hand-select the nicest "house lot" of straight knot-free timber for me as a favour. 
The work is kind of "semi"-restricted.  It's also better to do with two people.  My builder is busy,  I'll meet with him and sort out how we complete this aspect of the work - probably if he's got a good hammer-hand, then I'll employ him on rates for 10 days or so to complete this aspect, the job still "under supervision" of an LBP builder.
I think (hope) we trust each other now.  All of the tradespeople I have dealt with have been good.
I like this kind of stuff, even if my background is chemistry/science. 


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  Reply # 1068563 18-Jun-2014 15:26
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Look nice and tidy, good job. 

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  Reply # 1068741 18-Jun-2014 18:00
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It looks a little less tidy now.  As I expected may be the case, the studs/battens adjacent to the widow jambs are too close to allow the jamb flashing system to be properly installed.  I've had to shift them out 50mm.  There are adjacent dwangs in some cases, but in the corners no dwangs and a diagonal.  I've now skew-screwed that section of batten to the stud underneath with galv angles on the other side into the studs - they are rock solid.  A sill flashing also needs to lock in to jamb flashing, that needs to be fitted in to a groove.  The existing drip groove is in the wrong place, so a new one needs to be cut.  The only tool I can get in there is a carbide saw tooth blade on an angle grinder.  This is a nasty tool to be used with extreme care.  If that kicked back on you, the consequences would be awful.   I'll cut all those grooves myself.
It was really not possible to visualise how this was going to work from plans- and could have thrown a real spanner in the works if I'd assumed that the builder could have worked off the plans,  If we'd have changed from using the designed flashing system, I expect we'd have needed to go back to council and get the consented plans changed.  

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  Reply # 1081089 4-Jul-2014 17:22
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I think I've got it all sorted.  With great difficulty, I can cut grooves for the window and door flashing system using a multitool, then rout them out to about 3mm using a tile grout cutting blade on the multitool.  It's slower than using a "jamb saw" or grinder with carbide blade - but a hell of a lot safer.
I've set one window up, and have a final site meeting on Monday with the cladding contractor / plasterer.  I think he'll be happy ( I was getting the impression that he was expecting a real can of worms - so hopefully we can allay any of those fears).  IMO it's a work of art - and the installation meets the design in the consented plans.  If we had to make even a small change, then I expect the building inspector could have thrown a spanner in the works.  Putting the flashing systems in is restricted work - not DIY - but my builder is checking off my work.
I picked up my new french doors yesterday.  They are lovely - beautiful workmanship by a semi-retired joiner who really did me a big favour measuring up and delivering quickly.  Cedar and heart rimu.  
I also picked up the rest of the aluminium flashing to go around the entire foundation, about 20 different pieces, all custom folded for a different depth I'd measured (more than twice).  I'd given the sheet metal shop a numbered list - forgot to ask if they'd mark the numbers on each piece.  Took a while to sort them out.  I've been installing this all day - very happy with the way it's going - it looks very neat.  The sheetmetal shop, Idiens, have done a terrific job - and quite reasonable (under my budgeted cost by a few hundred dollars).
Scaffolding will be going up in two weeks.  Builder can start any time between now and then.
Have decided to use purple heart timber for decks - a little pricey but beautiful timber.

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  Reply # 1088851 14-Jul-2014 20:08
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Fred99: I think I've got it all sorted.  With great difficulty, I can cut grooves for the window and door flashing system using a multitool, then rout them out to about 3mm using a tile grout cutting blade on the multitool.  It's slower than using a "jamb saw" or grinder with carbide blade - but a hell of a lot safer.

After days of frustration trying to do this, I took a punt and bought a small Makita router, with 3mm kerf x 15mm depth groove cutting bit.  This worked.  I met with my cladding contractor to show him.  I'd identified another issue - the position of the flashing under the sills didn't leave him enough room to plaster up to the flashing, then seal.  I tried using a small hand plane - there's no room for an electric plane to get up under.  I tried using the router, but even with a guide, I can't get a straight edge. Hard work - so in the end I've trimmed 5mm off the bottom of the sills with a skill saw.  Then with the right sized bearing on a router bit, I can cut the 15mm deep groove - perfect.  He's happy. This is good.
Scaffolding is going up on Friday, my builders come on Monday.  The builder understands why I'm doing things this way:
Flashing needs to be installed by me before framing "packing timber" in the cavity is installed - as the new framing gets in the way.  Builder will install framing - I'll do the flashing (I have a head start - no problem). Then I install the special battens for the cladding.  This is easy enough to do.  Then we get inspection on the flashing and battens, then the plasterer does the full reclad.

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