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127 posts

Master Geek


# 255642 22-Aug-2019 08:06
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Hi all,

 

 

 

I am currently renovating my kitchen and the time has come to install the glass splash back. The splash back is 5mm thick glass which will sit inbetween the tiles each side of it which have a 10mm chrome lip/flashing on them, so I would like the splash back to be 10mm off the wall meaning I would need to pack it out 5mm.

 

I have been told by a mitre 10 staff member and a builder that hardie board would be best for this as moisture will not effect it and it is strong, the thing I am trying to work out is if I should install the hardie board and splah back 2mm off the bench top as most online instructions state, or if I should install them both with the bench top supporting the weight as per the mitre 10 instructional video.

 

I like the idea of the weight being taken by the bench top but like I say most instructions state to use a 2mm tile spacer when installing meaning the wall would be taking the weight once the spacers are removed. Normally I imagine either way would be ok, but the thing is I am wondering if the 100m gib on the wall would be able to handle the weight of the hardie board and also the glass if they were to be installed with a 2mm gap?

The measurements are 600x750 and the glass is 5mm thick and the hardie board is 4.5mm thick, to much suspended weight for 10mm gib?


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2996 posts

Uber Geek


  # 2303472 22-Aug-2019 08:43
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Presumably the 2mm gap gets sealed after the splahback is up. I don't see that as being much different to the Mitre 10 method of putting a bead of silicone down and setting the glass onto it. If you have any concern about how well the Gib is attached to the wall there's no reason I can think of why you couldn't put some more screws into framing timber. I've tiled over Hardie board nailed over Gib. With glass you might have to watch any fastners that could show through.



127 posts

Master Geek


  # 2303501 22-Aug-2019 09:15
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Sorry all should have mentioned it's an old house and there for has not much framing wood in it, so there is almost nothing to screw the gib into in the splash back area. Otherwise I would screw the gib to the wall way more in the splash back area.

 
 
 
 


Overarching undertones
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  # 2303531 22-Aug-2019 09:45
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I guess you’re going to fix the Hardie board to the gib with cartridge-type builders’ adhesive? Then fix the glass to the Hardie the same way?

If that’s the case, the adhesive strength is very high and IMO you’ll be fine even if the weights aren’t borne by the benchtop. There’s a huge amount of grip over the area that you have.

Nevertheless, I would be inclined to have the Hardie resting on the benchtop to take the weight - then have the glass spaced-up by the 2 mm to allow for the silicone sealant bead to go in.

2996 posts

Uber Geek


  # 2303537 22-Aug-2019 09:56
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You shouldn't need many screws. The splashback is probably 7 - 10kg and you'd hang that on a hook held by 2 screws. It would be an unusual wall not to have a stud or nog/dwang/blocking in a 600mm wide strip of wall.

I strip magnets out of old hard drives. Slid over a wall they stick to any nails or screws in the gib showing where the timber is.

Overarching undertones
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  # 2303550 22-Aug-2019 10:10
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5mm glass is about 12.5 kg/m2 - so the weight here is a bit less than 6 kg.



127 posts

Master Geek


  # 2303757 22-Aug-2019 12:45
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Cheers guys, it was not so much the gib collapsing completely that I was afraid of (like when you see gib peeled off a wall because someone has attached a huge tv without screwing the bracked into a stud or dwang), as there would be hardly any forward force, but more so I was worried about the gib paper tearing off the actual gib because of the down pressure caused by the weight (its bare 10mm gib), I am not sure if thats possible or not.

I have called the "gib helpline" and they have also advised the best way to go would be to cut the hardie the same width as the splash back (600mm) and 2mm higher (752mm) and to rest the hardie on the bench top and glue to wall. Then use silicone to attach the glass splash back to the hardie 24 hours later (or whatever the glue specifies) with a 2mm gap between the bench and bottom of the glass.

 

 

 

This way there is a gap under the glass for the sealer, and all the weight would still be on the bench top as the glass is attached to the hardie board which is resting on the bench.

 

 


929 posts

Ultimate Geek


  # 2304211 22-Aug-2019 20:53
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Personally I wouldn't rest the splash back on the bench so that the bench and splash back remain independent. There's no need for support.

 

That way when you pull the cabinetry out for whatever reason there's a lower risk of damaging the glass


 
 
 
 


2129 posts

Uber Geek


  # 2304286 22-Aug-2019 23:20
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Gib is surprisingly strong. You can hang amazing things on it with just self drilling screw anchors.

The majority of your force is shear force.
The weight is stuff all over that area.


I wouldn't be at all concerned about glueing it to the wall with a gap. It won't go anywhere.

Your only issue will be trying to get it off again in the future.




Location: Dunedin

 


Overarching undertones
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  # 2304296 23-Aug-2019 02:11
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@David321 [Snip] “I called the "gib helpline" and they have also advised the best way would be to ... rest the hardie on the bench top and glue to wall. Then ... attach the glass splashback to the hardie ... with a 2mm gap between the bench and bottom of the glass.”

I’m interested and pleased to hear that the Gib advice is pretty much exactly what I had said earlier above. (Mr. Bighead).

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Ultimate Geek


  # 2304374 23-Aug-2019 09:05
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I have pondered this for my house, and if I ever get around to it want to put an led strip behind the glass at the bottom. That way it would light up the glass with a nice glow. Not an expensive addition that would have an impact. I would incise a thin groove to run the strip in the gib to make it flush.


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Uber Geek


  # 2304439 23-Aug-2019 10:14
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elpenguino:

Personally I wouldn't rest the splash back on the bench so that the bench and splash back remain independent. There's no need for support.


That way when you pull the cabinetry out for whatever reason there's a lower risk of damaging the glass



I don't think the hardie board needs to be in direct contact with the bench top. If it is sitting on the same bead of silicone as the glass it isn't going anywhere. I have glued a toilet to a tiled floor with a thin layer of silicone to account for slight irregularities. It hasn't shifted in 10 months under lots of weight (and movements).

Overarching undertones
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  # 2305561 25-Aug-2019 04:29
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netspanner:

I have pondered this for my house, and if I ever get around to it want to put an led strip behind the glass at the bottom. That way it would light up the glass with a nice glow. Not an expensive addition that would have an impact. I would incise a thin groove to run the strip in the gib to make it flush.



Not sure that would work at all - the glass has paint or some other film on the back to give it the colour that you want - and that would stop any light getting through.

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  # 2305566 25-Aug-2019 06:06
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eracode:
netspanner:

 

I have pondered this for my house, and if I ever get around to it want to put an led strip behind the glass at the bottom. That way it would light up the glass with a nice glow. Not an expensive addition that would have an impact. I would incise a thin groove to run the strip in the gib to make it flush.

 



Not sure that would work at all - the glass has paint or some other film on the back to give it the colour that you want - and that would stop any light getting through.

 

Agree, but if the led strip was against the edge of the glass (i.e. on the benchtop pointing up), it might work nicely


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  # 2305572 25-Aug-2019 07:43
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nickb800:

eracode:
netspanner:


I have pondered this for my house, and if I ever get around to it want to put an led strip behind the glass at the bottom. That way it would light up the glass with a nice glow. Not an expensive addition that would have an impact. I would incise a thin groove to run the strip in the gib to make it flush.




Not sure that would work at all - the glass has paint or some other film on the back to give it the colour that you want - and that would stop any light getting through.


Agree, but if the led strip was against the edge of the glass (i.e. on the benchtop pointing up), it might work nicely



Ours is in the cabinet overhead to cast down. It is a hue multicolour led strip - powered off the same socket as the extractor - that is the trickiest bit as you need to power it which at the bottom is difficult esp. with cook tops, benches and drawers etc.

Jon

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