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Tile roof or iron roof? are there downlights in the eves?
Any chance you could bring them out of the eaves and run them along under the eaves, tucked in behind the fascia? The fascia usually protrudes down a little below the soffit.
Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.
Is it at the front of the house or the back of the house?
If at the front you could always cut some downlights in lol "Feature lighting" then you have a new path to run cables by just popping out the lights.
eracode:Any chance you could bring them out of the eaves and run them along under the eaves, tucked in behind the fascia?
I assume you can’t go the other way, down inside the wall and out under the house - sure you would have thought of that.
Or, if you can go down, how about temporarily removing the skirting, run them behind that - and put the skirting back. There’s often a space between the bottom of the gib and the flooring.
Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.
sparkz25:Is it at the front of the house or the back of the house?
If at the front you could always cut some downlights in lol "Feature lighting" then you have a new path to run cables by just popping out the lights.
Pat2020:sparkz25:
Is it at the front of the house or the back of the house?
If at the front you could always cut some downlights in lol "Feature lighting" then you have a new path to run cables by just popping out the lights.
Now we're talking. There's a security light on the eaves not far from where the cable will come up the wall. If I replaced that with a (waterproof) downlight I'd have an excuse to put a hole there that I could fit my arm through.
Off to find a tape measure and/or a mate with long skinny arms...
Appreciate the help!
That would be how I would do it, if it's fiber cement board you should be able to see the nail lines in the eves then that will tell you where the timbers are, then you can measure out and mark out from there, you should also be able to get your rod set in there then as well once the holes have been cut.
This is exactly what I did at my house, managed to get rid of the stupid wall lights on the outside of the house at the same time and having the downlights out the front make it looks so much better at nighttime with more light.
If you are going to install a few, I would invest in a carbide-tipped hole saw or see if you can borrow one as it will make life easier, the other option was a diamond jigsaw blade that we used when i was doing my time but that was years ago, not sue if they still make them.
eracode:I assume you can’t go the other way, down inside the wall and out under the house - sure you would have thought of that.
Or, if you can go down, how about temporarily removing the skirting, run them behind that - and put the skirting back.
If you've got the fiber glass rods, try to fashion an attachment like this for the end of it...
We used to push across things like ceiling tile grids, or ceiling battons for miles. You'd be surprised how much easier that makes it.
Soffit probably contains silica, so make sure to wear a suitable mask etc.
Pat2020:
To do this I have to run some aerial/power cables up through the wall then along in the eaves for about 5m before they can be connected.
Cheers
If you're going to be needing to run power cables, then you're also going to need a sparky who's probably going to have struck similar cable access issues before and probably has some tricks up their sleeve.
You can't legally DIY run a power cable and connect it.
You mention an outdoor security light is close to where the cables have to run, if the cable feeding that runs in the direction you want the new cable to go, then that may be able to be disconnected from the fitting and that cable used to pull the new cable(s) including aerial wire along the soffit - with a cable or cord so that the lighting cable can be pulled back to where it was and reconnected. With great care, because if it comes apart when pulling the cable, you doubled the original problem.
Fred99:Pat2020:
To do this I have to run some aerial/power cables up through the wall then along in the eaves for about 5m before they can be connected.
CheersIf you're going to be needing to run power cables, then you're also going to need a sparky who's probably going to have struck similar cable access issues before and probably has some tricks up their sleeve.
You can't legally DIY run a power cable and connect it.
You mention an outdoor security light is close to where the cables have to run, if the cable feeding that runs in the direction you want the new cable to go, then that may be able to be disconnected from the fitting and that cable used to pull the new cable(s) including aerial wire along the soffit - with a cable or cord so that the lighting cable can be pulled back to where it was and reconnected. With great care, because if it comes apart when pulling the cable, you doubled the original problem.
Pat2020:
I was waiting for someone to post about needing a sparky. I'm aware of what the law requires.
That's good. So the obvious answer is to get the sparky to solve the kind of problem any domestic sparky (not working only on new builds) faces every day.
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