Anyone sharpening chainsaws with Dremel carbide tool inserts 453 or 454?

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geekIT

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#299136 14-Aug-2022 14:13

For years I've sharpened my chainsaw teeth with a file, but the method has its drawbacks.

Recently I've watched YouTube vids where guys are using, apparently effectively, Dremel rotary tools with carbide bits, the most common of these being the 453 (4mm dia) and the 454 (4.8mm dia).

Anyone tried this system? I'm curious as to how many teeth one bit will sharpen before it wears out.

Price of a 453 bit in NZ varies from around $11 to $20 (the latter from a price-gouging large retailer I won't name) but if a bit only lasts a single (average length) chain, one might as well take the chain to a service depot to sharpen. Or buy a new chain, and that's a can of worms.

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

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#2954546 14-Aug-2022 19:00

Not a direct answer, but if you're serious about it you may as well just get something like this, which is specifically designed for sharpening chainsaw chains, rather than grinding away at each tooth with a Dremel.

lxsw20

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#2954553 14-Aug-2022 20:04

I've not tried that exact system, but we have an old Stihl sharper which is pretty much a glorified Dremel - it works great.

https://www.stihlshoppukekohe.co.nz/shop/Products/STIHL+Products/STIHL+Chainsaws/STIHL+Chainsaw+Accessories/STIHL+Super+Sharp+Grinder.html

The only issue you may have is finding a guide to make sure you're sharping the teeth on the right angle.

pdh

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#2954673 14-Aug-2022 23:21

Chainsaw teeth are good steel - but they're not as hard as a steel file.

If they were, you'd not be able to sharpen the teeth with a file - and they would also be too brittle for the impacts they face when cutting wood / bark / debris.

Carbide is a lot harder than any steel.
So any reasonable quality carbide cutter should sharpen a lifetime's worth of chainsaw teeth.

neb

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#2954674 14-Aug-2022 23:29

Just be aware that carbide abrasive disks driven by an electric motor can remove an awful lot of material really quickly. And, unrelated to chainsaws, never ever use any kind of carbide sharpener on good-quality knives.

(I once saw a guy demonstrate a pull-through carbide sharpener, showing off its "effectiveness" by the sparks it threw out as he drew the knife through. Luckily the knife was as garbage as the sharpener he was using, but it still hurt to see it).

geekIT

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#2954773 15-Aug-2022 11:09

Much thanks, neb, lxsw20 and pdh: Good calls all.

So I'll be happy to try the Dremel carbide bits, hopefully they'll fit into my B&D RT-650 rotary tool. The chuck should be about the same size.

But I'll also consider the Ozito bench mounted gizmo: I didn't realize they were so cheap.

Cheers 🖖

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

Bung

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#2954788 15-Aug-2022 11:55

Don't give up on hand filing. If you give the chain a quick file as soon as the chips start looking like sawdust it doesn't take long. I only have an 1800W electric so it needs to be sharp to cut. I'm not sure that a Drexel like tool would be faster.

Resnick

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#2954791 15-Aug-2022 12:01

I used to use a dremel tool for the job. It was good at keeping the cutters sharp but did nothing for the depth gauges. Another small issue I had was keeping the angle consistent with a short grinding tool.

I got one of these earlier this year, and it is excellent. I can keep it to hand for a quick sharpen away from the shed, and it just works.

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geekIT

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#2955333 16-Aug-2022 13:37

Resnick:...I got one of these earlier this year, and it is excellent. I can keep it to hand for a quick sharpen away from the shed, and it just works.

Yep, been using that Stihl sharpener for some time. Which is why I'm looking for something better.

BTW: Depth gauges are way easier to adjust than filing teeth. And they're not that crucial. I wouldn't mind betting that many chain saw users wouldn't even know what depth gauges are.

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

geekIT

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#2966261 12-Sep-2022 16:50

Heads-up: I purchased a $14 pack of the Dremel 453 (4mm dia) stones. (2 x pack)

I only tried one of the stones - it lasted for 5 teeth before it was visibly worn. Yep, that's right, 5 teeth, not 5 chains.

Even so, the 5 teeth weren't particularly sharp.

Back to the files I go.

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

PANiCnz

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#2966279 12-Sep-2022 17:07

I've had good luck with one of these lately. I can't sharpen a chain with a file to save my life so was paying $15 a chain to have them sharpened at the dealer.

duckDecoy

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#2966283 12-Sep-2022 17:26

geekIT:

Resnick:...I got one of these earlier this year, and it is excellent. I can keep it to hand for a quick sharpen away from the shed, and it just works.

Yep, been using that Stihl sharpener for some time. Which is why I'm looking for something better.

BTW: Depth gauges are way easier to adjust than filing teeth. And they're not that crucial. I wouldn't mind betting that many chain saw users wouldn't even know what depth gauges are.

What don't you like about it? Personally I have found it to be a really good tool and am curious to know what you see as its weakness(es)

RunningMan

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#2966300 12-Sep-2022 18:32

Have you tried a diamond rotary bit rather than carbide?

geekIT

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#2966585 13-Sep-2022 11:55

PANiCnz: That's the Stihl multi-file holder that Resnick and I referred to earlier. Cumbersome. It'd probably work better if the flat file was removed from the holder - it's only there to make sure the teeth aren't prevented from cutting deeply enough into the wood by the chain riser. Look at the section of the chain that the flat file grinds and you'll see what I mean. But IMHO it's not necessary. The sharpening process cuts the teeth almost entirely horizontally, so the teeth aren't losing significant height. However, this is on a small tooth chain, the home handyman type that's sharpened with a 5\32 (4mm) file. A professional logger's 3\8 chain might need to have the riser link lowered with each sharpening.

duckDecoy: See above re the flat file. The Still tool flips open so you can remove or renew files.

RunningMan: I've not seen any diamond rotary bits. I guess they might work better than carbide.

But re sharpening saw chains with a file, the best way is to make sure the teeth are as immobile as possible, so they don't 'rock' or 'sway' as you file them. This is pretty difficult to achieve out in the wild. Best to clamp the chainbar in a large vice, tighten the chain adjustment screw, then lock the chain with the brake. Or, with chain removed, clamp it in a vice. It's also a good idea to clean the chain the with petrol before you start, because an oily chain is much harder to file properly. If the chain is off the saw, soak and brush it in petrol, then hang it to dry. If it's still on the saw, hold the saw vertically with the bar tip in the petrol bath.

PS: Some chains have the filing angle marked on each tooth.

PPS: If you're using a single file (the best method, IMHO), use a sharp, clean file in a decent single-file handle. Wearing gardening gloves is also helpful. Rotate the file a little with each thrust.

'Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.' Voltaire

'A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.' Edward Abbey

MikeAqua

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#2966598 13-Sep-2022 12:38

I use something like this (not exactly the same but similar):

Easy Portable Chainsaw Sharpener With 5pcs Grinder Stones Aluminium Chainsaw Sharpening Jig Chain Saw Drill Sharpen Tool - Abrasive Tools - AliExpress

I'm terrible at sharpening chainsaws. The challenge for me with a file is getting the two angles correct on both the left and right facing teeth. I'm often out harvesting bits of interesting wood and cutting it into slabs in remote places (with landowner permission of course). I find this tool really useful for sharpening in the field.

I also have a little chainsaw type pole-saw, that I use for trimming a ~70 lm hedge. I carry that tool with me, and it's handy to give the teeth a tickle up as I go, without even leaving my ladder.

Mike

wratterus

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#2966610 13-Sep-2022 13:13

Honestly for the average chap who isn't a sharpening fanatic, those Stihl, 2-in-1 file holders are the best thing. They are basically foolproof and will pretty much always give a good result.

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