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Shanemc

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#307120 21-Sep-2023 10:57
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We have recently installed a cavity slider into the wall that usually has the room light switch. This is really the only place for the light switch.

 

I cant find any solution to this in the obvious places.

 

Is there any issue with a home made solution to this. Something like plastic ducting to run the wiring in the cavity and keeping it away from the door. And a 20mm plywood sheet to fix the light socket to.

 

It hasn't been plasterboarded in so seems quite easy to do.

 

 


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richms
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  #3130064 21-Sep-2023 11:02
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when one was installed at a relatives place, the sparky had no issues with getting the switch in place. It's a very shallow box and they just took some R/W/B cable back to a join somewhere else. Not deep enough for a dimmer to go into.





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johno1234
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  #3130065 21-Sep-2023 11:03
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What size/kind of room is it? If just a closet would a battery powered, surface mount touch light suffice?

 

Alternatively, a battery powered surface mounted wireless switch to activate a relay for the main powered light fitting located elsewhere?

 

 

 

E.g. similar to this: https://www.gemlighting.co.nz/products/surface-mount-switch-kit-long-range?currency=NZD&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwsKqoBhBPEiwALrrqiPlIql3doLMZXENT6NepSEXEodkErxZQDp5w_K7DodopR-tpj7JdAhoC27YQAvD_BwE


Shanemc

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  #3130083 21-Sep-2023 11:14
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Its into our study. But the door is hard up against a bathroom door. So the wall of the cavity is the only place for the light switch.

 

Ducting the wiring seems like an easy solution to me. Just don't want to run into any problems with a sparky saying there is a problem.

 

 




richms
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  #3130090 21-Sep-2023 11:27
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Shanemc:

 

Its into our study. But the door is hard up against a bathroom door. So the wall of the cavity is the only place for the light switch.

 

Ducting the wiring seems like an easy solution to me. Just don't want to run into any problems with a sparky saying there is a problem.

 

 

That's why you get them involved now so that they can direct you or just do the lot.

 

The box that ended up getting installed was not one that I had ever seen before and they knew about it and got it from the wholesalers along with all the other stuff needed.

 

 





Richard rich.ms

Clima
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  #3130184 21-Sep-2023 14:40
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what about ceiling switch with pull cord? Haven't seen one lately but I think they are still available.

 

 


mdooher
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  #3130251 21-Sep-2023 18:00
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I've done it numerous times including on my own house.

 

if it is super super super tight I use heat shrink around the back of the switch and stick the cable to the side of the cavity with F2 glue (just enough to stop it moving) just use a c clip, no flush box.

 

I have even run the cable horizontally along the back of the gib between the slats that form the cavity slider. You need to ensure if some one puts a screw into the gib it can't pierce the cable.

 

It is easier to do if the gib is being installed at the same time... sorry





Matthew


 
 
 

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Shanemc

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  #3130327 22-Sep-2023 08:01
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The gib is yet to go on, so setting it up will be easy. I was thinking of running the wiring in a aluminium tube horizontally along the the cavity slat. As it will be just behind the gib, figure the tube would protect from screws/nails. Then just fix the switch plate to some cut out plywood - fixed between the slats. There looks to be 20-30mm of space to the door +10mm for the gib, which should be plenty of space for the switching mechanism.

 

 

 

Looks like they have a solution across the ditch: https://triline.net.au/product/cavity-switch-unit/

 

 


mdooher
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  #3130331 22-Sep-2023 08:13
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this is probably the easiest, and then then stick a bit of square section tube along the bottom of the slat 

 

just make sure you cannot touch the terminals even if you remove the door ie cover them 





Matthew


Shanemc

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  #3130333 22-Sep-2023 08:16
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Even easier!!


Bung
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  #3130356 22-Sep-2023 09:02
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Aluminium may not be enough resistance to drill point screws. Wire guards I've seen for other countries have been steel.

Usual disclaimer not an electrician but how does the Australian product satisfy the TPS in cavity being 50mm from face of wall while just being plastic (from looks of video)?

mdooher
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  #3130422 22-Sep-2023 11:13
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if the cable is not "fixed" in place it can be as close as you want. in a tube is fine as long as it is free to move inside the tube (free space in the tube I mean)





Matthew


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