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outdoorsnz

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#318004 5-Dec-2024 16:14
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I did lots of bike riding and mtb races some years back, but only spurts of biking riding since. Getting back into riding quite a bit since I got a good old KMS hardtail $20 buck beach bike! Love it. Hard landings riding in the forest! Takes me back to my riker MTB I had as a teenager. I've forgotten about some of the bike maintenance skills you pick up, but not the bike riding skills :-)

 

CRC fine for beach bike, but my old giant trance 2 needs a bit of DLC. I need a good dry lube as don't growl I've been using CRC chain lube which makes quite a mess as the dust sticks to it. So I need a cleaner and dry lube. Muc off? Gravel roads mostly.

 

Can you use that on all running parts? i.e chain, derailleur, hubs etc?

 

The front shock had gone a little soft. Someone I know has a shock pump. What PSI pressure is recommended?

 

It might need new disc pads soon. How do I work out which one to get?

 

And Dad has a new e-bike. Wattwheels - bighorn. Rear wheel. Those that know, how do you remove that to change the tire / puncture repair? It looks rather complicated. Front wheel has a quick release.

 

Rear wheel looks like you undo with allan keys. It looks like the derailleur could fall out when you remove the wheel. Can you replace with a quick release skewer?

 

Thanks.


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geoffwnz
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  #3319496 12-Dec-2024 10:46
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Muc Off does a good line in cleaners and lubes.  I use the dry lube most of the time.  Apply 2 hours or so prior to riding so the carrier liquid has time to evaporate and leave the lubricant in place.  Or get in the habit of applying post ride.

 

It's good for chain and derailleur pivots.  Hubs it's unlikely to get into if the sealed bearings are still properly sealed.  For that you need a decent bearing grease and carefully pry one seal off, add grease then put the seal back.

 

PSI for shocks is rider dependent.  Best base setup is sit on the bike with normal riding kit and measure the sag and work out that as a percentage of total travel.  Rough guide is 25-30% sag, so whatever pressure is required to achieve that.

 

Pads:  Make and model of the brakes will get you the pads, then it's potentially a choice between Race, Sport and Comfort in pad compounds.

 

If it's a Boost or Super Boost rear hub, then you undo the axle using the allen key and slide the whole axle out, then the wheel will drop down in the normal manner.  Usually the derailleur is on it's own hanger so shouldn't come off.   No, you cannot replace these with quick release as far as I know.  Trek does their ones to have an allen key plugged in to the axle so you always have one on the bike unless you've lost it.







Batman
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  #3319501 12-Dec-2024 10:58
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heh i'm someone who has (almost) enough tools to rebuild my own bike, in fact i spent the last 2 days rebuilding half a brand new hardtail to my liking

 

yet when i (briefly) had an ebike i had to take it to the shop to fix the rear puncture. nasty!


geoffwnz
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  #3319506 12-Dec-2024 11:11
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Batman:

 

heh i'm someone who has (almost) enough tools to rebuild my own bike, in fact i spent the last 2 days rebuilding half a brand new hardtail to my liking

 

yet when i (briefly) had an ebike i had to take it to the shop to fix the rear puncture. nasty!

 

 

Same level of tools and bike maintenance ability. 

 

First time I attempted to change a tyre on my 29" wheels, it took more than an hour to do it because of how thick the "rim strip" was.  Replaced that with plain rim tape so I now have enough depth in the channel to get tyres on and off.







outdoorsnz

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  #3319555 12-Dec-2024 13:49
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Thanks @geoffwnz. That summed up things nicely.

 

Time to get my hands dirty :-)


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