Shelly Wifi smart home devices now with AU/NZ Certification

Forums › Gadgets, robotics, home automation, electronics (including wearables) › Shelly Wifi smart home devices now with AU/NZ Certification

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#2773529 7-Sep-2021 12:44

Psilan:

Just get a Broadlink IR unit. A shelly will only do on/off and all the button presses related to that, so won't integrate into something like that.

Broadlink Integration in Home Assistant is great these days. I use a Broadlink RM Mini to control my Panasonic heat pump. It's rock solid. Here's my UI in HA:

My views (except when I am looking out their windows) are not those of my employer.

Psilan

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#2773535 7-Sep-2021 12:46

Nice. That looks tidy.

I still have to hook mine up. I just changed over to a NUC11 on ESX running the HA OS, so i'll have to pass it through I guess.

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hairy1

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#2773537 7-Sep-2021 12:50

Psilan:

hairy1:Shelly's are working great for me. I have Shelly 1's, 2.5's, dimmer 2's and RGBW2's

What are your RGBW2s set up like? I purchased a bunch of them but haven't wired them up. I still have my LIFX strips set up - which are actually pretty good.

I need to do a big 20m strip around a louvre roof - but that's a hard project to start on. Needs to be very bright and probably has to be RGB.

I am using the RGBW2's behind beds and behind curtain rails with cheap RGBWW strips. The longest one is about 7 metres long and by the end it is just starting to get voltage drop and the light changes colour very slightly. You can get voltage injectors for them which would be an option for the 20 metres but I have never played with those.

My views (except when I am looking out their windows) are not those of my employer.

mattenz

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#2773538 7-Sep-2021 12:51

hairy1:

I am using the RGBW2's behind beds and behind curtain rails with cheap RGBWW strips. The longest one is about 7 metres long and by the end it is just starting to get voltage drop and the light changes colour very slightly. You can get voltage injectors for them which would be an option for the 20 metres but I have never played with those.

What is the voltage?

mulac

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#2773539 7-Sep-2021 12:53

Psilan:
Nice. That looks tidy.

I still have to hook mine up. I just changed over to a NUC11 on ESX running the HA OS, so i'll have to pass it through I guess.

You don’t need to pass it through, they’re wifi so communicate over the network.

Psilan

856 posts

Ultimate Geek

#2773541 7-Sep-2021 12:56

mulac:
Psilan:

Nice. That looks tidy.

I still have to hook mine up. I just changed over to a NUC11 on ESX running the HA OS, so i'll have to pass it through I guess.

You don’t need to pass it through, they’re wifi so communicate over the network.

Hah true. It's been unplugged for almost 2 years I forgot how it worked :).

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hairy1

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#2773615 7-Sep-2021 13:38

mattenz:

What is the voltage?

12 Volts for all of them. The RGBW2 will take 12 or 24 Volts and is an option in the web interface

My views (except when I am looking out their windows) are not those of my employer.

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NZJon

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#2783141 23-Sep-2021 20:03

Good evening everyone!

Does anyone know of a (reasonably) standard "mech" that acts as a rotary encoder plus switch/button, pretty much like what is being done here, but more "professional": https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/

Many thanks,

Jon

catdog

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#2783146 23-Sep-2021 20:07

NZJon:
Good evening everyone!

Does anyone know of a (reasonably) standard "mech" that acts as a rotary encoder plus switch/button, pretty much like what is being done here, but more "professional": https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/

Many thanks,

Jon

From FW v1.9:

Dimmer2: Rotary switch support is removed by safety reasons – there is no safe rotary switch which can work on 110V-220V

dias87

12 posts

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#2783214 23-Sep-2021 20:34

Will this really work my control unit?

hairy1:

Psilan:

Just get a Broadlink IR unit. A shelly will only do on/off and all the button presses related to that, so won't integrate into something like that.

Broadlink Integration in Home Assistant is great these days. I use a Broadlink RM Mini to control my Panasonic heat pump. It's rock solid. Here's my UI in HA:

NZJon

43 posts

Geek

#2783215 23-Sep-2021 20:36

catdog:
NZJon:

Good evening everyone!

Does anyone know of a (reasonably) standard "mech" that acts as a rotary encoder plus switch/button, pretty much like what is being done here, but more "professional": https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/

Many thanks,

Jon

From FW v1.9:

Dimmer2: Rotary switch support is removed by safety reasons – there is no safe rotary switch which can work on 110V-220V

Ah, OK: "high" voltage rotary switches are not safe. However, a low voltage switch, as per https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/, which interfaces "digitally" may well be safe. I suppose I am asking if there is a "low voltage / low power" rotary switch that blends in with existing faceplates...?

chevrolux

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#2783225 23-Sep-2021 20:47

I personally don't think it's worth the hassle finding a rotary knob.

With a 230V momentary push button wired as the switch, you can just do long press to dim up/down. And then it's all compliant for NZ installs too.

slip

24 posts

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#2783335 24-Sep-2021 08:47

NZJon:

Ah, OK: "high" voltage rotary switches are not safe. However, a low voltage switch, as per https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/, which interfaces "digitally" may well be safe. I suppose I am asking if there is a "low voltage / low power" rotary switch that blends in with existing faceplates...?

Do not do this. The Shellys don't isolate high and low voltages as far as I'm aware. This is why you cannot flash them via a computer while connected to mains. They removed support because the devices don't isolate the ports to be used with very low voltage components.

I would advise you talk to an electrician.

chevrolux

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#2783394 24-Sep-2021 10:48

slip:

NZJon:

Ah, OK: "high" voltage rotary switches are not safe. However, a low voltage switch, as per https://www.instructables.com/Shelly-Dimmer-Wall-Switch-With-Rotary-Knob-and-Hom/, which interfaces "digitally" may well be safe. I suppose I am asking if there is a "low voltage / low power" rotary switch that blends in with existing faceplates...?

Do not do this. The Shellys don't isolate high and low voltages as far as I'm aware. This is why you cannot flash them via a computer while connected to mains. They removed support because the devices don't isolate the ports to be used with very low voltage components.

I would advise you talk to an electrician.

Yea that's a really good point. That instructable isn't showing the "Dimmer 2" which is the only one shipped now - the switch contacts are 230V. So you'd destroy your rotary encoder immediately.

I think I'm right in saying the Shelly 1 is the only one with a dry relay contacts.

NZJon

43 posts

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#2783528 24-Sep-2021 12:38

chevrolux:

I think I'm right in saying the Shelly 1 is the only one with a dry relay contacts.

Ah... OK. Many thanks all for your input 👍

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