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Aren't the contacts we are talking about the one that comes from the top of the fitting to touch the end of the bulb. I think they are normally copper if I am not mistaken. Is it feasible they contract slightly with heat/cold?
networkn:
Aren't the contacts we are talking about the one that comes from the top of the fitting to touch the end of the bulb. I think they are normally copper if I am not mistaken. Is it feasible they contract slightly with heat/cold?
It should be a compressible piece of copper at the bottom of the fitting, so acts like a spring. Actually they can become compressed over time, so sometimes they can require pulling out a little bit, to give it back it's spring. I purchased some chinese bulbs for some of my E27 fittings once, and the bulb was lightly too short to come in contact with the end, so I had to pull it out slightly, and then it was fine. Obviously you have to turn off the power to do that though!
I replaced all our B22 bulbs with Ali-express LEDs over 5 years ago(15+). We've probably had about 10 failures, but its always been the circuit board inside that's let go. I brought quite a few replacements (again from AliExpress) and now when one dies I unsolder the old board, replace and its all go again.
Amosnz:
I replaced all our B22 bulbs with Ali-express LEDs over 5 years ago(15+). We've probably had about 10 failures, but its always been the circuit board inside that's let go. I brought quite a few replacements (again from AliExpress) and now when one dies I unsolder the old board, replace and its all go again.
Hard to believe you would have saved money over buying a reputable brand with local warranty support in those circumstances?
The original LED's were like $15ea US, but local instore prices were much higher (I forget exactly how much this is 5 years ago so easily double). The new drivers are like $2.50ea and it takes me about 10mins to swap one when it dies.
I'd still say I'm well ahead overall.
I remember when LEDs were around $200. They sold them on teh basisi that they would pay for themselves within a certain number of years. B22s and E27s were also above $50 not all that many years ago. Top get a good one these days you are paying around $10+ for 800lm, and $20 for a higher Lumin one.
You can get a 3-pack of 806l philips led from Bunnings for $15. If they don't have the right colour/fitting, just go to the special orders desk and they'll order it from another shop for you.
I have been progressively replacing all lighting in my house with LED. Some are retrofit and some are complete unit replacement. Touch wood. None have failed so far:
1) Over 2 years. LED Downlight in bathroom - Bought from M10. Can't remember the brand but has a solid heat sink.
2) MR16 LED Bulb. 16 months at about 4 - 5 hours per day. Lucelle Brand from Bunnings
3) E27 16W LED Bulb. One year at about 16 hours per day. Lucelle Brand from Bunnings
4) E27 4W LED Bulb Phillips. 16 months at about 16 hours/day. Phillips Brand.
I agree with other comments. It is often the heat which kill the board rather than the LED failure itself.
smalltrader:
I have been progressively replacing all lighting in my house with LED. Some are retrofit and some are complete unit replacement. Touch wood. None have failed so far:
2) MR16 LED Bulb. 16 months at about 4 - 5 hours per day. Lucelle Brand from Bunnings
I bought a bunch of GU10 bulbs for the kitchen from Bunnings, I cant remember what brand they were but they were a cheaper one - maybe Lucelle - they have all bar 1 died within 2 years. Changed to Philips as they have gotten much cheaper.
pom532:
You can get a 3-pack of 806l philips led from Bunnings for $15. If they don't have the right colour/fitting, just go to the special orders desk and they'll order it from another shop for you.
That's a pretty decent price as when I was in Mitre 10 a few weeks ago, their standalone price was $12 each bulb. I noticed that the new bulbs are quite a bit lighter than the older bulbs I have. I wonder if the old philips bulbs have larger heat sinks. I have one 1200 lm bulb that is really heavy for a bulb
I was surprised at the prices of lamps and fittings at Bunnings & Mitre10. Ended up being significantly cheaper at Lighting Plus and Lighting Direct. Even off the shelf bulbs were/are cheaper and came with what I think are good warranties. I was at Bunnings over the weekend just gone and was struggling to find any prices that could compete with the fittings and bulbs we have recently purchased, in some cases the prices were over double what I can get at the lighting shop a 5 minute walk away. Surprising given the bulk-buy power I thought they had.
Lazy is such an ugly word, I prefer to call it selective participation
scuwp:
I was surprised at the prices of lamps and fittings at Bunnings & Mitre10. Ended up being significantly cheaper at Lighting Plus and Lighting Direct. Even off the shelf bulbs were/are cheaper and came with what I think are good warranties. I was at Bunnings over the weekend just gone and was struggling to find any prices that could compete with the fittings and bulbs we have recently purchased, in some cases the prices were over double what I can get at the lighting shop a 5 minute walk away. Surprising given the bulk-buy power I thought they had.
Is that 'like for like' brands? Bunnings and Mitre 10 will both beat other retailers by 15% if you find a cheaper price. eg on philips builb. Although sometimes they seem to have exclusive SKUs, which makes price matching impossible,
Nearly all bulbs in my house replaced with LED now. Had a couple of in-house brand from Mega blow after a year-ish. Replacing those with Philips and any new ones are Philips also.
Be interesting to compare the life of the Fluorescent tube replacements as I have two Philips units at $140 each vs 4 in-house brand from Mega at $37 each.
The ones I've had most trouble with are the LED car interior lights. The heat sink on them appears to be "glued" on with a dot of thermal paste. Seems to part company after a short time of being on leading to flickering lights. Cant recall which brand they were though.
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