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Kenody

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#259950 1-Nov-2019 16:23
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Hi guys, I want to replace my 2 gang switch with a newly purchased Sonoff wifi smart switch. Thought it would be a straight forward swap, but turns out the wiring on my old switch is very different to the new smart switch.

Please see attached photos. The wiring on the old switch looks very complicated to me compare with the new one which only has N in, L in and L1 & L2 out.





I would really appreciate if anyone please give me some idea how I can replace this switch and wire it correctly?

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gregmcc
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  #2347245 1-Nov-2019 16:42
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It a straight forward job, but I would recommend that you get an electrician as a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, especially when it comes to electricity




Rikkitic
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  #2347255 1-Nov-2019 17:11
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I agree with the above. Electricity can be deadly. But a simple request for information can be answered. Assuming the switches were not wired by a cowboy and the colour coding is correct (one reason to consult a professional), the red wires are phase, the black neutral, and the green, earth. The switches are also being used as convenient terminals to connect different wires together. It looks like there are five circuits coming together. The red wire that runs between the two switches is bringing power from one to the other. The red wire in the other terminal feeds the power from the switch to the light. All existing connections would have to be preserved, and apart from anything else, I'm not sure the Sonoff terminals are big enough to take the multiple wires connecting together, in which case you really do need to have an electrician do it.

 

 





Plesse igmore amd axxept applogies in adbance fir anu typos

 


 


Tracer
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  #2347256 1-Nov-2019 17:12
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I second gregmcc's advice. I also don't think you can legally do this without having the work certified and livened by a licensed electrical worker in any case.




Kenody

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  #2347306 1-Nov-2019 17:28
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Thank you all for your help. Will just get a sparky to do it for us.

Any of you played with such similar smart switch before?

sqishy
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  #2347352 1-Nov-2019 18:43
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Looks like 5 wires and one switch has 3 lights the other 1 light. The difficulty here is the new switch has little room so you need different terminators to do a neat job on the red wire on 3 light switch.


Kenody

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  #2347358 1-Nov-2019 19:02
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sqishy:

Looks like 5 wires and one switch has 3 lights the other 1 light. The difficulty here is the new switch has little room so you need different terminators to do a neat job on the red wire on 3 light switch.



Yes, one switch controls 5 lights in the living area and the other switch is for the lights in our kitchen..

dolsen
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  #2347359 1-Nov-2019 19:06
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sqishy:

 

Looks like 5 wires and one switch has 3 lights the other 1 light. The difficulty here is the new switch has little room so you need different terminators to do a neat job on the red wire on 3 light switch.

 

 

 

 

That doesn't look correct to me. To me, it looks like the 3 red wires going to the middle should go to the L in, the two single red wires from each switch should go to the out terminal (one each). the black neutral wires should go to N in, and the green earth wire should looped in a connector.

 

The single red wire between the common terminals can be discarded.

 

Having said that, I am not an electrician, this needs to be checked by an electrician (I am making assumptions that may not be correct), so, get an electrician to install / check this.

 

I do agree about there not being much space for all of the wires. 

 

 

 

 


 
 
 

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stocksp
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  #2347361 1-Nov-2019 19:11
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Are the sonoff switches now certified for NZ?  Where did you get them from (I’m thinking about switches myself and don’t know what to get) 


nickb800
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  #2347362 1-Nov-2019 19:32
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You can only fit a single 1mm into those terminals, so need tunnel connectors for the earth, neutral and incoming lives - then a short 1mm for neutral and live to the light switch

sqishy
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  #2347379 1-Nov-2019 19:38
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nickb800: You can only fit a single 1mm into those terminals, so need tunnel connectors for the earth, neutral and incoming lives - then a short 1mm for neutral and live to the light switch

 

 

 

Agree with this, also if you have a meter/electric screwdriver you can check which is live. 


Kenody

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  #2347394 1-Nov-2019 20:23
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nickb800: You can only fit a single 1mm into those terminals, so need tunnel connectors for the earth, neutral and incoming lives - then a short 1mm for neutral and live to the light switch



I got them from Amazon. Just thought to try them out first if they can be used or fitted.

There is a really good discussion on Whirlpool Au about Sonoff https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2646237

To be honest, I doubt they are certified here in NZ or AU. They have RHoS, CE and FCC certification.

Kenody

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  #2347395 1-Nov-2019 20:24
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sqishy:

nickb800: You can only fit a single 1mm into those terminals, so need tunnel connectors for the earth, neutral and incoming lives - then a short 1mm for neutral and live to the light switch


 


Agree with this, also if you have a meter/electric screwdriver you can check which is live. 



Thank you!

Tracer
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  #2347427 1-Nov-2019 23:50
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stocksp:

 

Are the sonoff switches now certified for NZ?  Where did you get them from (I’m thinking about switches myself and don’t know what to get) 

 

 

That's a good point. If you can't get an SDoC, the only option is whoever certifies the work makes the declaration of conformity. Nobody in their right mind will do that.


richms
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  #2347434 2-Nov-2019 01:38
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The sonoff also may not fit depending if you have a wallbox or C clip or direct fitted on the old switch. Most NZ sparkies used flushboxes of various sizes back in the days of solid green insulation on the earth, some of those have a very narrow opening that the sonoff will not fit into, and in the case of the C clips the screws which stick out more when you actually have wires in the terminal are uncomfortably close to the 2 parts of the clip that anchor it to the wallboard, particually if they have given it a bit of a squeeze to keep it in place. Turning them around is often not possible because of the location of a stud etc.





Richard rich.ms

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