Garage Cladding - what are my options?

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Durbin90

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#289693 23-Sep-2021 14:45

I plan on cladding the whole interior of this garage but the head room will be very limited thanks to that steel beam. What other options are there to replace it and free up some head room? Is this a builder job or is an engineer required?

Scott3

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#2782829 23-Sep-2021 14:50

What are your thoughts on leaving the steel beam (and garage door hangers) exposed, so the cladding follows the profile of the ceiling.

Gonna be major work to get rid of the steel beam, and the obvious option is to just replace it with a slightly less tall steal beam (I beam).

Is the key driver aesthetics of insulation?

Durbin90

4 posts

Wannabe Geek

#2782850 23-Sep-2021 15:20

Aesthetics is what I'm after, would like to insulate as well though. Thinking about your idea of leaving it exposed and still cladding along the roof profile, might not look too bad actually.

Dynamic

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#2782857 23-Sep-2021 15:25

Perhaps paint the steel a contrasting colour and make it a feature? :)

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thenine

37 posts

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#2782868 23-Sep-2021 15:39

The exposed steel would look cool. A lick of black paint or whichever colour you desire.

elpenguino

3419 posts

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#2782872 23-Sep-2021 15:42

Sorry to be that guy, but what you want to do is called lining. Cladding is the outside.

If you want to replace that green thing (it's a truss), any replacement option that has a smaller vertical dimension will necessarily be heavier. Will the supporting structure be there for it?

I see it is supported in the middle of the far window so it's looking more involved.

You also have that wooden support for the tilt doors so are you planning to remove/alter that as well?

FWIW I say line around the obstacles.

https://www.building.govt.nz/projects-and-consents/planning-a-successful-build/scope-and-design/choosing-the-right-people-for-your-type-of-building-work/use-licensed-people-for-restricted-building-work/restricted-building-work/

Detached garages are not restricted work so you could DIY if you wanted.

From the inside of the garage, looks like you bought my father's house !

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

Durbin90

4 posts

Wannabe Geek

#2782929 23-Sep-2021 15:55

elpenguino:
Sorry to be that guy, but what you want to do is called lining. Cladding is the outside.

If you want to replace that green thing (it's a truss), any replacement option that has a smaller vertical dimension will necessarily be heavier. Will the supporting structure be there for it?

I see it is supported in the middle of the far window so it's looking more involved.

You also have that wooden support for the tilt doors so are you planning to remove/alter that as well?

FWIW I say line around the obstacles.

https://www.building.govt.nz/projects-and-consents/planning-a-successful-build/scope-and-design/choosing-the-right-people-for-your-type-of-building-work/use-licensed-people-for-restricted-building-work/restricted-building-work/

Detached garages are not restricted work so you could DIY if you wanted.

From the inside of the garage, looks like you bought my father's house !

If your dads house was in Taupo then it could be the one.

Definitely going to just line around the truss, stood there looking at it for like 10min haha and decided it could still look pretty cool.

elpenguino

3419 posts

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#2782953 23-Sep-2021 16:23

Heh, nope. I think his garage is still in Whanganui.

Spitting image tho.

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

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Ge0rge

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#2783314 24-Sep-2021 07:20

Have a look on trademe for "Plyguy", they're in the Wairarapa. Even with delivery costs, they can often be cheaper than your local timber merchant.

I've used their 10mm triboard for lining buildings before, it makes for a very nice finish. One thing to be aware of is the distance between studs - on a mates shed similar to yours, we're pretty sure the builder just put them in by eye. This meant that we had to frame out a few extra studs and move a couple because they didn't line up at nice 1200mm intervals.

eracode

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#2783316 24-Sep-2021 07:31

My brother and I did a similar job on his garage a couple of years ago. We used ply. Doing the walls is relatively straightforward - but the ceilings not so much.

I think you'll need one of these. We hired one and although it was simple to use mechanically, overall was still a bit of a fiddle. Complications can arise where the spacing of the framing doesn't match the size of the lining sheets - but working with ply can make this a bit easier than if you're using Gib.

https://www.hirepool.co.nz/products/equipment/building-renovation/accessories/394b-drywall-lifter

It comes apart into smaller pieces and can fit into the boot of most cars.

The unit in this Canadian video is identical to the one we got from Hirepool - as shown in the link above:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj3KXLJshQw

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Fred99

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#2783327 24-Sep-2021 08:04

Adding insulation won't reap full benefits with those tilt doors - especially with the large gaps at the top and bottom. You could investigate that before putting a big effort and cash into insulating the walls. Replacing the tilt doors with insulated sectional doors is probably going to cost over $3k. If you're keen on improving things inexpensively, then you could stick some rubber strip at top and bottom of the doors to try and reduce draughts, but that usually looks pretty ugly and doesn't solve the issue of having 20m2 of uninsulated steel panel on one wall of the space.