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gzt

gzt
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  #1237719 14-Feb-2015 03:27
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In contrast the RS datasheet for the ABB's at RS linked above indicate support for power factor, volts, amps, kwh. Probably good value at the right price.



timmmay

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  #1237747 14-Feb-2015 08:33
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Multimeter measurement sounds far too ad hoc and dangerous. DIN meters look perfect, I could get one and leave it on each circuit for a few days to get a decent average. Rich, are yours something like this? My neighbour's an electrician so I'd run the idea past him before I bought and installed anything. I doubt I'd go for the ebay model, I'd want something approved for New Zealand - it'll have 15A running through it for the water heater.

Clamp meters sound like a reasonable option, but DIN sounds easier, safer and more reliable.

Thanks all :)

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  #1237750 14-Feb-2015 08:40
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The din rail meters will need a sparky to install them though. They aren't something you can move around easily.



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  #1237756 14-Feb-2015 08:51
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Incidentally here's a photo of my switchboard. The only problem I see is the bathroom and hot water system are new and are circuit breakers, I don't think I can get anything inline there. It's top right, along with a timer that shuts off the under floor heating when I don't want it on (underfloor heating timers are pretty inflexible in this regard).

Thumbnail, click

Click to see full size

timmmay

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  #1237757 14-Feb-2015 08:51
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Handle9: The din rail meters will need a sparky to install them though. They aren't something you can move around easily.


Oh I thought they'd come in and out like circuit breakers do. Oh well. It's not worth having an electrician in and out ten times, or buying ten of them to get the information.

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  #1237762 14-Feb-2015 09:09
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Argh, a half RCD'd board!  Did you consider getting the whole board done when the new bathroom ones went in?  Mine wasnt too bad to have done just over 1K.  When it was first suggested by the spraky I thought he was FOS, but went away and read about it.  Surprising the push by the NZ legislators is a lot weaker than in other countries!

 
 
 

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  #1237764 14-Feb-2015 09:10
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timmmay:
Handle9: The din rail meters will need a sparky to install them though. They aren't something you can move around easily.


Oh I thought they'd come in and out like circuit breakers do. Oh well. It's not worth having an electrician in and out ten times, or buying ten of them to get the information.


Nah they sit on a din rail with terminals on the top and/or the bottom.

timmmay

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  #1237765 14-Feb-2015 09:17
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itxtme: Argh, a half RCD'd board!  Did you consider getting the whole board done when the new bathroom ones went in?  Mine wasnt too bad to have done just over 1K.  When it was first suggested by the spraky I thought he was FOS, but went away and read about it.  Surprising the push by the NZ legislators is a lot weaker than in other countries!


Nope never occurred to me. It's an ugly old board, some fuses, some circuit breakers, that RCD thingy for the bathroom.

 

Cost around $1K would need justification... what are the benefits?

k1w1k1d
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  #1237770 14-Feb-2015 09:31
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Would the effergy engage hub kit be of use to you?

http://efergy.com/nz/products/online-monitoring/engage-hub-kit#.VN5edS5rXGw

timmmay

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  #1237777 14-Feb-2015 09:51
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k1w1k1d: Would the effergy engage hub kit be of use to you?

http://efergy.com/nz/products/online-monitoring/engage-hub-kit#.VN5edS5rXGw


Maybe... my sole aim is to work out what's using power - hot water (very likely), AV (nope), computer (unlikely), lighting (unlikely), underfloor heating (possible), heating/air conditioning (very likely), kitchen (maybe). Would it help with that?

Bung
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  #1237790 14-Feb-2015 10:22
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timmmay:
k1w1k1d: Would the effergy engage hub kit be of use to you?

http://efergy.com/nz/products/online-monitoring/engage-hub-kit#.VN5edS5rXGw


Maybe... my sole aim is to work out what's using power - hot water (very likely), AV (nope), computer (unlikely), lighting (unlikely), underfloor heating (possible), heating/air conditioning (very likely), kitchen (maybe). Would it help with that?


I don't think any of your circuits are dependant on any others so why not just use your power company meter to measure usage with and without the circuit under suspicion? Unless your HWC thermostat is stuck you shouldn't have any usage that isn't expected on some level or other.




 
 
 

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  #1237803 14-Feb-2015 10:44
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timmmay,

The efergy monitors the consumption through the wire you put the clamp sensor(CT) on.
If you try it on different circuits for a day or so, you will be able to see what that circuit uses.

I have heard that underfloor heating can be very expensive to run.

gzt

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  #1238830 14-Feb-2015 12:25
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Benefit of redoing the board is safety and meeting the current installation standard. For instance all circuits must have rcd now. Also you could get a nice configuration with din rail meters directly below each circuit of interest.

Imho with your existing board - din meter the hwc and underfloor for $60 per meter plus installation and you are done. Maybe add one additional power circuit meter for any remaining high use appliances.

richms
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  #1238869 14-Feb-2015 13:16
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The ones I got were single width with the meter on its side. I've tested both but only installed one of them.

Really wish there were wireless ones. Limitless guy showed some on his site and went all quiet about them.




Richard rich.ms

timmmay

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  #1238870 14-Feb-2015 13:16
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k1w1k1d: timmmay,

The efergy monitors the consumption through the wire you put the clamp sensor(CT) on.
If you try it on different circuits for a day or so, you will be able to see what that circuit uses.

I have heard that underfloor heating can be very expensive to run.


Interesting, but accessing the wires would be a PITA, thanks though.

gzt: Benefit of redoing the board is safety and meeting the current installation standard. For instance all circuits must have rcd now. Also you could get a nice configuration with din rail meters directly below each circuit of interest.

Imho with your existing board - din meter the hwc and underfloor for $60 per meter plus installation and you are done. Maybe add one additional power circuit meter for any remaining high use appliances.


Seems to work fine. Maybe if we have to have electrical work done in the future.

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