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Disrespective
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  #1255101 11-Mar-2015 08:42
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Fred99:
Porboynz: Soundproofing your garage so your sons drum practice is bearable sounds like a great idea, very community focussed.  Nothing to do with the council unless you don't do it and someone calls the noise control department.  Bedroom or garage?  As long as there is no cooking going on or renting to strangers then where is the harm?  A bedroom has to be a safer insurance risk than the stuff I have stored in my garage, paint, thinners, glues, petrol powered gardening tools.  I bet more fires start from incorrectly disposed of oily rags that self combust.  So what if your son sleeps in his custom recording studio after a hard days night?  I would advise my insurance company but the Council?  Not me.


Yes. 
There will be - somewhere buried in council regulations - some rule on what constitutes a "permanent dwelling" or part thereof.  Duration of occupation is probably what it''s based on.
However, they have not intruded into our lives enough yet to tell us where we're allowed to sleep.  You can sleep in your dog kennel, under your dogwood tree, or on your roof if you like. Might have to alternate on a monthly basis to keep those appointed to "save us from ourselves" happy, but they probably don't snoop that hard.

From memory it's to do with cooking facilities. A second dwelling is one which has a built in hob. A benchtop oven doesn't have any effect on this, however...

In any case, that's besides the point. As you said, any change of use like this needs a building consent and not having one would directly affect your insurance in the event of something happening. If the garage is attached then this would be much more worrying for me than if it was detached.

Options for sound proofing are pretty wide ranging including doubling up the Gib (or other) plaster board linings. 2x 13mm soundline layers does a pretty good job of general higher and midrange frequency noise but some absorbing tiles would make a far better job of it. Glass/Polyester insulation will also lower the higher frequency noises from the drums somewhat but any lower frequencies wouldn't be as affected. For those, proper absorbing tiles would do a better job. A soft flooring would also help here by reducing the impact noise of the drums themselves. Perhaps a rubber mat directly under the drum set would suffice. I don't have much experience here.

What type of garage door does it have? If it's a tilt/sectional door you could add insulating tiles to this easily without much effect on the operation of the door long term.

How about the ceiling? If it's a lowered ceiling you could just double up the insulation above the drums, or lay more tiles on the underside of the ceiling above the drums. Lots of noise will leak out from here.

I can see a pretty great bedroom being put together in the garage in any case.




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  #1255102 11-Mar-2015 08:46
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How close are the Neighbours

Wilko
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  #1256199 11-Mar-2015 11:33
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If the room is classed as "habitable", it must comply with Building Code requirements such as floor to outside ground height (150mm to permanent paving, 225mm to unprotected ground), waterproof membrane under slab, 2.4 metre ceiling height and probably thermal insulation (not sound) standards.

If it is Non-habitable, such as calling it a "workshop" or "studio" it will still require a Building Consent if structural alterations are made, but the other requirements are not needed.  Of course, if it is to be used for sleeping it will be a habitable room.

I find that most councils are fairly helpful regarding these things.



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  #1256356 11-Mar-2015 15:04
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Niel: Bradford Gold, or whatever it is called.  We used their normal insulation to absorb sound on a dry wall in our church.  Was told it has the same absorption as sound absorbing batts.  And it is not fibreglass so easy to handle.  Then on the falls fit sound absorbing tiles.  They are sold on TradeMe for a good price.  You don;t have to cover the whole wall, one major improvement is by just breaking up the surface (reduces resonance in the room) so you can skip every second or third tile.  But if you want to do it right, cover the whole wall.  Also, it is hard to fill in the missing tiles afterwards so have to decide beforehand which way you'll go.  But don't expect miracles, we are talking about drums...  Many people use cheap electric drums for practicing.  Or use softer sticks, like wood instead of nylon.  Don't forget to break up the ceiling surface as well.  Depends how far you want to take it.  Cement floor is a good start, no resonating cavity.


thank you for the feedback




Pop! OS


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  #1256357 11-Mar-2015 15:05
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Fred99:
joker97: Do you need to go to council / insurance or is that beyond the scope of the thread


It absolutely does require building consent.  Also notify your insurer, they should ask questions in order to determine if contract works / building insurance is needed (typically if any structural alteration is made), and in any case once the work is complete, you'd want to revise details of the policy, including sum insured.


mmmmmmmmmm bugger




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  #1256362 11-Mar-2015 15:07
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Sideface:
Horseychick: I've lost count of the number or 'rural' properties that we visited when buying that had garage conversions or granny annexes with no building consent.  ...


Which is fine until you try to sell the property ...


just bought the property, moving in a few weeks so no intention of selling for many years




Pop! OS


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  #1256363 11-Mar-2015 15:08
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Bung: How old is garage and is it attached? We have one built in 1980s before plastic was required under concrete and the house floor steps up at internal access. To make garage habitable would reqire the floor level to be lifted to 150 mm above external concreted areas and sealed.


i think it was built mid to late 90's and no its not attached, separate from the house




Pop! OS


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  #1256364 11-Mar-2015 15:10
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nzrock: Hi

Not getting a consent will come back to bite you if you go to sell your house. In a LIM report there will be no record of the conversion & no CCC.

Greg


we will be setting it up in a way that if this ever came about that we could remove the bed and rugs etc and bam you have the garage back




Pop! OS


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  #1256369 11-Mar-2015 15:19
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In any case, that's besides the point. As you said, any change of use like this needs a building consent and not having one would directly affect your insurance in the event of something happening. If the garage is attached then this would be much more worrying for me than if it was detached.

Options for sound proofing are pretty wide ranging including doubling up the Gib (or other) plaster board linings. 2x 13mm soundline layers does a pretty good job of general higher and midrange frequency noise but some absorbing tiles would make a far better job of it. Glass/Polyester insulation will also lower the higher frequency noises from the drums somewhat but any lower frequencies wouldn't be as affected. For those, proper absorbing tiles would do a better job. A soft flooring would also help here by reducing the impact noise of the drums themselves. Perhaps a rubber mat directly under the drum set would suffice. I don't have much experience here.

What type of garage door does it have? If it's a tilt/sectional door you could add insulating tiles to this easily without much effect on the operation of the door long term.

How about the ceiling? If it's a lowered ceiling you could just double up the insulation above the drums, or lay more tiles on the underside of the ceiling above the drums. Lots of noise will leak out from here.

I can see a pretty great bedroom being put together in the garage in any case.



we were looking at doing the batts (highest R rating) then instead of gib i can get cheap sheets of ply for the walls and ceiling, rugs for the floor and double that under the drum kit.
it has a tilt door, didnt think about proofing that?
it has the standard garage ceiling but was going to batt and cover it.

i've seen that many garages in my time that are used for parties or sleeping and i doubt they have consents of any kind, our risk i suppose




Pop! OS


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  #1256371 11-Mar-2015 15:21
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joker97: How close are the Neighbours


standard distance like any residential neighbourhood, couple oldies. being new owners didnt want to upset too many straight away




Pop! OS


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  #1256373 11-Mar-2015 15:22
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thanks everyone for the feedback, awesome discussion going on




Pop! OS


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  #1256375 11-Mar-2015 15:27
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Ply wall lining is a great option. We use it all the time in our projects (i'm an architect). Very hard wearing and can look really good, too.

Garage doors are not really very weather proof so will be uninsulated and drafty. I'd certainly look at lining it somehow. You could look at kingspan type (or other) polystyrene panels and glue fixing them to the door but be careful it doesn't get too heavy or if it's ever opened (weekly, to wash out the teenage boy grime with a high pressure hose) then the motor might struggle. On the other hand you might find it simpler to just frame out over the inside of the door and then you can seal the sides up so no more drafts... making sure moisture doesn't come through to the wall lining will require a bit of weather proofing but wouldn't be impossible.

Horseychick
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  #1256386 11-Mar-2015 15:31
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Whilst I 'hear' all the things that are being said about building consent and insurance, one of the things I love about living in NZ (yep I'm an immigrant) is that people go ahead anyway when they've decided the risks are low cool . And before everyone has a go at me, by low risk I mean a single level property where there is a corridor to an additional bedroom, bathroom and living room that happens to have a sink and cupboards, but NO cooker i.e. can be separate accommodation.  Or, a conversion of a garage into a bedroom that could easily be turned back into a garage.

Life is full of risks after all.... 

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  #1256524 11-Mar-2015 18:00
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For sound you do want to break up the surface of the wall/ceiling, or else the sound will be contained but sound bad.

Your mortgage (assuming you have one) requires that you have a consent.  They own the house until you pay off the loan.




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Niel
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  #1256527 11-Mar-2015 18:04
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Potable water and/or cooking facilities is classified as change of use requiring consent.  I'm also an immigrant and love the self regulation in NZ, however if/when something goes wrong then the first question will be but why did you know phone the council and asked.  It is free (except when you have a meeting to discuss further details).  If the person says it is fine, just take his/her name and record the date/time.




You can never have enough Volvos!


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