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andrewNZ
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  #1356396 31-Jul-2015 23:55
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IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, PLEASE STATE THAT WHEN POSTING IN THESE TYPES OF THREADS.

There are some disturbingly misleading posts in this thread and the many other threads like it.
1) Most lighting circuits DO have an earth. It has been standard practice to run it for many many years now. Typically, only very old installations don't.
2) Although an earth is not required in some lighting circuits, it would be downright irresponsible to not run one if you were installing a new cable/circuit.
3) What happens overseas is irrelevant.

What Greg and Fred have posted pretty much covers it. Any exposed metal parts that could possibly become live MUST be earthed.
If you do make your own, your switches need to be rated for mains voltages. Also make sure that the plate is screwed on with screws that require a tool to remove. You cant use thumb screws.



gzt

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  #1356399 1-Aug-2015 00:10
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AndrewNZ: If you do make your own, your switches need to be rated for mains voltages. Also make sure that the plate is screwed on with screws that require a tool to remove. You cant use thumb screws.

Wow homeowners can make their own? If true that's pretty cool but it's also a bit scary. I thought the point of the regs was givng a clear steer to avoiding situations where say a new house buyer would unknowingly get a house with dodgy stuff in it.

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN!

gregmcc
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  #1356450 1-Aug-2015 04:24
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gzt: In NZ it is recommended (to cater for installation of metal fittings) but other than that lighting earth is not required.

Just a side question here. If I install a ceiling metal light fitting to a two wire circuit, is it allowed & ok to run a separate earth to that fitting?



Yes you can, again there are restrictions on what you can and can't do, 1st off you would be making alterations to the fixed wiring, this falls out side the scope of what a home owner is legally allowed to do.





Bung
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  #1356468 1-Aug-2015 07:34
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andrewNZ: IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, PLEASE STATE THAT WHEN POSTING IN THESE TYPES OF THREADS.

There are some disturbingly misleading posts in this thread and the many other threads like it.
1) Most lighting circuits DO have an earth. It has been standard practice to run it for many many years now. Typically, only very old installations don't.
2) Although an earth is not required in some lighting circuits, it would be downright irresponsible to not run one if you were installing a new cable/circuit. .


Not an electrician.

The requirement now is for an earth at all fittings. That takes care of any new wiring. Some electricians still use the "3 plate" method for lighting circuits. You can't assume that only old houses are wired like that. The earth would be at the fitting as required but not necessarily at the switch.

Disrespective

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  #1356828 1-Aug-2015 21:37
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OK, to clarify, my thought process was this:

1. If I can find a mains rated dolly switch from someone reputable in NZ then it will (probably) be NZ/AUS compliant to be used as a light switch in a home. I can't see why I HAVE to have a standard PDL switch. Just so long as I cover any live terminals with a faceplate which requires tools to access said live terminals. See 2.
2. If I put a custom faceplate over the top of the switch, I don't see a problem (because i'm not going to screw it directly into a live terminal...)

I am not an electrician, I am an architect who doesn't like spending money if I don't have to. 

I need to stop in at Rexel/Advance and talk to someone but figured someone might know here first. 

gregmcc
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  #1356855 1-Aug-2015 22:07
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Disrespective: OK, to clarify, my thought process was this:

1. If I can find a mains rated dolly switch from someone reputable in NZ then it will (probably) be NZ/AUS compliant to be used as a light switch in a home. I can't see why I HAVE to have a standard PDL switch. Just so long as I cover any live terminals with a faceplate which requires tools to access said live terminals. See 2.
2. If I put a custom faceplate over the top of the switch, I don't see a problem (because i'm not going to screw it directly into a live terminal...)

I am not an electrician, I am an architect who doesn't like spending money if I don't have to. 

I need to stop in at Rexel/Advance and talk to someone but figured someone might know here first. 


Ahhh... I now see the problem, (no personal disrespect towards you)

As an electrician I see this problem on a daily basis, between architects and engineers they cause more problems and expect the electrician to make it all work at the end......and keep it compliant

Disrespective

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  #1357137 2-Aug-2015 14:16
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;) But seriously, I don't *have* to use a standard PDL/HPM switch do I?

 
 
 

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andrewNZ
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  #1357161 2-Aug-2015 15:13
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As long as what you do is compliant, no, I don't believe there is a requirement for it to be a PDL/HPM switch plate.

Making sure it is compliant will be the tricky part though. I suspect the easiest route will be to take a standard plate and mount toggle switches in it.

The switches must be rated for AC.

I think you need to do a lot of reading.

gzt

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  #1357172 2-Aug-2015 16:13
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Then there is termination.

I am not an electrician

Bung
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  #1357178 2-Aug-2015 16:39
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gzt: Then there is termination.

I am not an electrician


Possibly the most important aspect. Most toggle switches have screw or spade terminals totally impractical for connecting TPS cable. I haven't found any vintage look switches that show the working side. I'd expect tunnel connections with no live parts exposed. The OP as an architect should be able to get some detail out of Thom.

lxsw20
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  #1357220 2-Aug-2015 18:13
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frankv:
lxsw20:
frankv: If you want a metal plate, you will need to earth the plate. That in turn would probably mean running an earth wire to the switch -- most light switches don't have an earth.


Are you 100% sure of that. Pretty sure either HPM or PDL sell metal plates for their standard sockets/switches. 

No, not 100% sure. IANAL and IANA electrician.



OK, just checking as the way you worded it made it seem like absolute fact. 

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