Anyone bought an Ozito Tablesaw?

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Hammered
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#1549035 10-May-2016 09:38

richms:
Issue I have on my cheap ryobi is the fence is a hard to adjust and get perfectly square to the table piece of crap. And the blade tilt is horrible to use compared to the better saws. Basically I finally got it to 90degrees and have not changed it since because its so damn hard with it moving slightly as you tighten the adjustment.

I've found this to be true with most cheap saws (table, compound etc, anything with an adjustable component) and it's a real curse!

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mdf

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#1549054 10-May-2016 09:57

As others have said, one of the problems with cheap stuff is that they have much lower tolerances. So why you _can_ get things true/accurate, you have to spend a lot more time doing so. And then checking and re-checking that it's still accurate at each cut.

I am guessing you are doing the laminate flooring in panels? How big are the panels compared to the size of the table itself? Bench saws are great for ripping long lengths, but cross cutting wide stuff can be awkward if the panel is much bigger than the table support it. You can get "wobbles" which will most certainly show up on a nice new laminate floor. Bench saws also come into their own when you're making the same cut several times (e.g. ripping panels down to X width), but it will soon get old if you're adjusting it for every cut.

One thing you might want to look at if you're considering buying/hiring is a track or a pluge saw. Basically a skill saw on rails. You just need to line it up with your cut line and away you go. Much less fiddling with guides on bench saws, and much more portable / storeable. They're not that common yet though. Bunnings has a deWalt for about $800, but there are some much cheaper options online. Can't attest to build quality of those, but in principle it might be a better option.

mdf

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#1549055 10-May-2016 09:58

mdf: As others have said, one of the problems with cheap stuff is that they have much lower tolerances. So why you _can_ get things true/accurate, you have to spend a lot more time doing so. And then checking and re-checking that it's still accurate at each cut.

I am guessing you are doing the laminate flooring in panels? How big are the panels compared to the size of the table itself? Bench saws are great for ripping long lengths, but cross cutting wide stuff can be awkward if the panel is much bigger than the table support it. You can get "wobbles" which will most certainly show up on a nice new laminate floor. Bench saws also come into their own when you're making the same cut several times (e.g. ripping panels down to X width), but it will soon get old if you're adjusting it for every cut.

One thing you might want to look at if you're considering buying/hiring is a track or a pluge saw. Basically a skill saw on rails. You just need to line it up with your cut line and away you go. Much less fiddling with guides on bench saws, and much more portable / storeable. They're not that common yet though. Bunnings has a deWalt for about $800, but there are some much cheaper options online. Can't attest to build quality of those, but in principle it might be a better option.

Sorry, *higher* tolerances. I think, Whichever is worse.

Stu

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#1549062 10-May-2016 10:12

I'd agree, I'm not sure a table saw is really what you want for laminate flooring strips. Perhaps a sliding compound mitre saw would be better? With a good finish/trim blade.

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Smix

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#1549063 10-May-2016 10:14

mdf: As others have said, one of the problems with cheap stuff is that they have much lower tolerances. So why you _can_ get things true/accurate, you have to spend a lot more time doing so. And then checking and re-checking that it's still accurate at each cut.

I am guessing you are doing the laminate flooring in panels? How big are the panels compared to the size of the table itself? Bench saws are great for ripping long lengths, but cross cutting wide stuff can be awkward if the panel is much bigger than the table support it. You can get "wobbles" which will most certainly show up on a nice new laminate floor. Bench saws also come into their own when you're making the same cut several times (e.g. ripping panels down to X width), but it will soon get old if you're adjusting it for every cut.

One thing you might want to look at if you're considering buying/hiring is a track or a pluge saw. Basically a skill saw on rails. You just need to line it up with your cut line and away you go. Much less fiddling with guides on bench saws, and much more portable / storeable. They're not that common yet though. Bunnings has a deWalt for about $800, but there are some much cheaper options online. Can't attest to build quality of those, but in principle it might be a better option.

Hadn't even heard of a plunge saw. I already have a mitre saw for the cross cutting (assuming my terminology is correct) so the table saw will only be used for the long cuts. I've watched a number of videos on laying laminate and don't recall anyone using anything but a table saw for the long cuts. I think I need to do more looking around...

@Stu, I'll also look into the sliding compound mitre saw.

Thanks again everyone!

richms

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#1549093 10-May-2016 10:35

We just used the guide on a 18v circ saw for the long cuts on a friend's place. They end up under the baseboard (or 1/4 round if you're being lazy) do no drama if it has a little chip out etc.

Richard rich.ms

Stu

Hammered
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#1549105 10-May-2016 10:48

Forgot about the long cuts! Was only thinking of cutting down the lengths for some reason. You need two saws then. More tools is a good thing!

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SepticSceptic

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#1549253 10-May-2016 12:51

mdf:..
One thing you might want to look at if you're considering buying/hiring is a track or a pluge saw. Basically a skill saw on rails. You just need to line it up with your cut line and away you go. Much less fiddling with guides on bench saws, and much more portable / storeable. They're not that common yet though. Bunnings has a deWalt for about $800, but there are some much cheaper options online. Can't attest to build quality of those, but in principle it might be a better option.

Or a circular saw guide track .. I think you would have better control moving a circular saw across the wood, rather than having to manipulate a large sheet across a bench saw.

Bench saws are IMHO a little more dangerous than a circular saw - your finger aint on the trigger so to speak. A snag, or a misplaced finger, or something unawares could leave you digit-less, or worse. With a circular saw, one hand is always on the trigger handle.

Image result for circular saw guide

tdgeek

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#1549265 10-May-2016 13:05

richms: Put a proper blade on it if you get a cheap saw and that will help heaps.

Perfect advice, and be careful to keep load off it, both the motor and the hardware, treat it as delicate, and it will probably be ok.

richms

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#1549270 10-May-2016 13:09

I am more than impressed with the diablo blade I got for my gutless mains power circ saw, so I got one for my table saw and it actually sounds nicer when cutting, doesnt have that schoolbell sound ring to it, and it doesnt slow down as much. They have some even nicer looking ones on amazon for way cheaper than bunnings, so I might get some next time I have a box coming over via shipito, but with the dollar being so bad that wont be for a while.

Richard rich.ms

itxtme

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#1549275 10-May-2016 13:15

Thought I would comment as I very recently bought a table saw. Got the Tooline table saw from Mitre 10 ($397). The alternative was a Black & Decker which looks very similar to the Ozito one you asked about. I have been very impressed with mine, and seeing the build quality of both against each other it was a no-brainer. The hardware around blade movement was better, and it allows for angled cuts (not that I needed this).

I have been cutting Rabbets for a new peice of glazing, and the tolerances on these were amazing given I was cuttiing 0.8mm grooves. Get yourself a tri-square, it makes the whole measuring up a lot easier and faster.

PS this is a great video on Rabbets, but also on how to use the tri-square to quickly setup guides and blade heights

mdf

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#1549478 10-May-2016 19:54

SepticSceptic:

Yep, that's the one. Plunge saw and a track saw is the same thing. The advantage of this versus a guide on one side is that it prevents wobbles both ways (among other things).

Have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Stf8jcuCJM8. The Makita certainly won't be a cheap version but gives you an overview of what they can do.

Though I've now been and watched some youtubes about how to lay different types of flooring (couldn't help myself). If you've already got a compound mitre saw for the cross cuts (and there will be waaaay more of those) a cheapish bench saw will probably be fine for what's involved. But definitely invest in a good blade, probably with as many teeth as you are willing to pay for.

Smix

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#1549501 10-May-2016 20:40

Thanks for all the replies everyone, really cool to see so many different opinions and I've learnt quite a bit. Actually leaning towards the plunge saw...managed to Google-fu a Scheppach CS-55 and it's honestly looking like it'd be the same price as a higher-end table saw and has reviewed quite favourably. Just trying to find reviews about machineryhouse at the moment, but can't seem to find much...

mdf

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#1549505 10-May-2016 20:57

Smix:

Thanks for all the replies everyone, really cool to see so many different opinions and I've learnt quite a bit. Actually leaning towards the plunge saw...managed to Google-fu a Scheppach CS-55 and it's honestly looking like it'd be the same price as a higher-end table saw and has reviewed quite favourably. Just trying to find reviews about machineryhouse at the moment, but can't seem to find much...

I've had my eye on this one too. I'd be interested in your feedback if you did end up with this one. While I would dearly love the Makita reviewed above (currently have an almost identical model on "loan" from a builder mate but I can see it having to go back soon) I cannot justify the $$$$.

They're awesome tools, really offering the best of circular saws and bench saws in a relatively small and flexible package.

Stu

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#1549534 10-May-2016 21:19

It looks like it's cheaper to buy the saw and rail as separate items?

Could you rip a 100x50 or 75x50 lengthwise with that?

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