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Fred99
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  #2339763 17-Oct-2019 13:48
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elbrownos:

 

I've also got fibrous plasterboard in my late 1950's house, currently wallpapered.

 

It currently looks horrendous and I'll be happy with making it look reasonable, so I'm not interested in getting tradesmen or re-gibbing.

 

The plasterboard is very smooth and shiny (under the wallpaper) so I don't think paint will stick.

 

I've got a friend in the UK who recently redecorated using wallpaper that is designed to be painted over. This sounds like a good option for me, does anyone know if this wallpaper is available here?

 

 

Our house is all fibrous plasterboard (early '60s).

 

Much of it was wallpapered.  It should be easier to get the wallpaper off and prepped for painting than with Gib, as there's no kraft paper layer as with Gib which tends to delaminate when it's wet or steamed,  and makes a mess that will require skimming the lot or replacing all the gib.

 

If it's vinyl coated paper, then there's a paper removal device called (IIRC) a "spider" that has small serrated wheels that break through the surface allowing water to get through. 

 

 

 

 

You need to test this on a small area to get the pressure right, if you go too deeply then you'll score the surface of the plaster with tracks from the serrated wheels and need to fill/skim those areas, the plaster surface if more or less as new shouldn't require skimming, it should be smooth as.

 

The plaster won't be damaged by using some water with a bit of detergent over the paper, that should penetrate through the vinyl surface into the wallpaper backing and soften the glue, with a bit of luck and practice first, you should be able to get a wall stripped easily.  I've not needed to use a steamer. I've just used a garden sprayer to wet the surface, then wait and peel the paper off. Some patches of the paper backing may be stuck down a bit more firmly and delaminate as you peel it off.  Give any of those patches a spray to wet them, after a few minutes they should come off easily - maybe a bit of help using a soft plastic scraper.  Then wash the wall with water to remove the remaining wallpaper glue, I've just used microfibre cloths and a bucket to do this.  This sounds like a recipe for disaster for people used to dealing with Gib, but it's fine.  They still make plasterboard, it's very expensive ($100/sheet) and used for high-end builds and especially where curved walls are needed, it can be wet then steamed and formed to a curve.  It's also stronger than Gib, the old stuff we have may not be to any particular bracing spec, but the sheets made now have equivalent bracing performance to fibre reinforced Gib - "braceline" etc. 

 

Sheets used to use horse hair, the sheets in our house use what I assume is flax fibre - looks like the fibre in binder twine.  New sheets use glass fibre chopped rovings.

 

Let it dry, then (re) stop and fill, skim only areas where it's needed, a coat of water based wallboard primer/sealer, then topcoats.

 

A couple of potential gotchas.  Sometimes if wallpaper peeled a bit on edges, people would glue it back down with PVA or some other glue they had handy.  This is a problem, wallpaper glue is soluble (methyl) cellulose based and (re)dissolves in water when you wet it.  PVA etc doesn't, so getting any bits that have been patch glued that way might result in localised damage that you'll need to fix.

 

Pull the fuses / turn off the breakers for any fittings/outlets/switches - as you'll be splashing a bit of water around, and in any case you're going to have to get the faceplates off to get all the wallpaper out, then paint under the faceplates rather than try to cut in around them if you want a decent result.

 

Some people will say it's hard or impossible, but I suspect they misunderstand that fibrous plasterboard is not the same as the old "lathe and plaster" - and they've had experience with trying to remove wallpaper from the latter - a real can of worms.

 

 




mdf

mdf
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  #2339768 17-Oct-2019 14:00
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^^ Wot Fred said.

 

The wallpaper scoring removal tool is a "paper tiger". You can also rent/buy steam strippers which make pretty quick work of wallpaper, assuming it was applied correctly with size and wallpaper paste, rather than superglue or equivalent.

 

Paint will stick to most things, so long as it is prepped appropriately. You most likely want a penetrating sealer for plaster and paper (and concrete and anything else porous). Resene Sureseal is good. But there is nothing like a test patch to confirm. There are a range of other primers and sealers, including etching stuff, that you can revert to if a normal sealer doesn't work, but you'd probably want some specialist technical advice. Resene has a technical queries phoneline.


mattwnz
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  #2339776 17-Oct-2019 14:22
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David321:

 

Rather than replacing the scotia and skirting I was thinking or running a multy tool along the top of the skirting and below the scotia to cut along, then wall could be removed while leaving those two things in place, then it would be a matter of securing the new jib and sealing the join between the new jib and old skirting and scotia.

 

 

 

But after reading everything here I think it could be a bit of a risk to take on as it may not go as smoothly as I suspect, and its one of those things that once you start you must finish.

 

 

 

 

If the gib walls are being used as bracing, then I do't think this would be permitted. In order for gib to brace, it must be screwed to the top and bottom plate of the framing. So if you are trimming above the skirting, then this would likely be above the bottom plate, and the bottom of the gib wouldn't be secured to anything unless you also pack above the bottom plate with timber.  Far easier to just take the trims off. 




tripper1000
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  #2339777 17-Oct-2019 14:23
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If you wanted to know the cost of doing multiple rooms, you should have simply asked for a price on that, rather than extrapolate your own estimate.

 

The cost of re-doing one room is not indicative of the whole house and can't be scaled up meter for meter. Reason is that when you are doing 1 room the tradesmen spend a lot of time waiting for plaster and paint to dry (literally) so you are paying a penalty for unproductive time. When doing multiple rooms, there is much less waiting time because they work productively in a 2nd room while waiting for the first to dry. Also when the job scales up the tradesman can have lower cost labourers doing the "easy" parts of the job while the skilled guy does the skilled parts. With a single room it may not be enough work to keep 2 guys busy, so you end up paying the skilled tradesman to do an unskilled job.  

 

I'm also in the wallboard replacement camp, although I haven't had to deal with different thickness of plaster board.


Fred99
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  #2339827 17-Oct-2019 14:56
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mdf:

 

The wallpaper scoring removal tool is a "paper tiger".

 

 

Dammit - I knew it was named after a scary creature - had the number of legs wrong.


elbrownos
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  #2340144 18-Oct-2019 13:13
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Thanks all for the tips.

 

Thinking I might just wallpaper with a plain or simple pattern.

 

How do you choose between paste the wall & paste the paper?

 

I'm also going to need to replace the carpet in the near future. What's the best order to do things in?

 

I'm thinking pull off the skirting boards, do the walls, do the carpet, replace the skirting boards.


Bung
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  #2340371 18-Oct-2019 20:34
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Carpet normally goes against the skirting not under.

 
 
 

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mdf

mdf
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  #2340383 18-Oct-2019 21:15
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elbrownos:

 

Thanks all for the tips.

 

Thinking I might just wallpaper with a plain or simple pattern.

 

How do you choose between paste the wall & paste the paper?

 

I'm also going to need to replace the carpet in the near future. What's the best order to do things in?

 

I'm thinking pull off the skirting boards, do the walls, do the carpet, replace the skirting boards.

 

 

It it were me, I would do the skirting first (including filling gaps, nail holes and painting), then walls, then carpet. You don't want carpet or wallpaper behind/under the skirting.

 

I'm not a wallpaper expert, but I would start by sizing the wall (sort of like undercoat for wallpaper). I haven't seen any paste the paper wallpapers for ages. So far as I know, most will be either pre-pasted or paste-the-wall systems. Pre pasted you just need to wet and apply. I've not done paste the wall, but apparently it is pretty easy. Either way, you will be dictated to by the pattern you like and how much it costs.


tripper1000
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  #2341279 21-Oct-2019 11:41
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Carpet should be the very last thing to be installed. Saves hassle with paint/plaster/glue/footprints/dust getting on the new carpet.

 

Skirting is near impossible to do with the carpet still down so you will be lifting the carpet edges and it is better to be lifting the old carpet that you are removing soon anyway than pulling up your nice new carpet. 


DjShadow
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  #2341355 21-Oct-2019 13:31
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If you have the time I have found the Mitre 10 Youtube channel very good, they have some good guides on how to reline a wall using gib.


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