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eracode
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  #2357038 19-Nov-2019 05:02
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timmmay:

 

eracode:

 

I have done it in the shower in our previous home. You can buy ‘silicone sealant remover’ from Bunnings. Cut away the excess with a snap-knife, paint on the remover, leave it a while, clean it off.

 

Re-do with new silicone in a caulking gun and clean off the excess with plastic finishing tools I linked above. It’s really not difficult to get a pro-looking job.

 

 

Getting the old stuff off sounds easy enough. The problem I have is when I use a caulking gun I can never squeeze it quite smoothly - some bits have none, some bits have too much. So I try to smooth the stuff where I put too much to where I put not enough, it's wider some places than others, etc. The stuff the pro did is dead straight and uniform. Only way I could go that straight is with tape!

 

When I use sealers now I usually use the no more gaps that pushes itself out with a button, but I have to use a proper gun for this as it only comes that way.

 

Maybe I should just hire someone to do it, but they all said it's a 4-6 hours work and will cost $500 - $600. I really only need one side of the shower done too.

 

 

I think the secrets to an even bead when applying the sealant are: steady and gentle even pressure on the gun trigger, maintain a constant angle and constant speed with the gun, and don’t clip the nozzle with a hole that’s too big - keep it small. Hold the gun at about 45 degrees, start at one end of the run and do it all in one pass - try to avoid going back to patch it up. Squeeze the sealant ahead of the direction of travel and so that the nozzle tip itself becomes a sort of initial gauge scraper for an even bead as it passes over the expelled sealant as you move it forward.

 

Then use the plastic gauge scrapers I linked above to finish it off. If you’ve applied the sealant in the way I’ve tried to describe, there shouldn’t be too much excess and the scraper won’t be removing a lot of excess.

 

And use masking tape as others have mentioned - I meant to say that in the earlier post. Remove the tape prior to using the scraper to get a smooth ride for the scraper.

 

 





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mdf

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  #2357097 19-Nov-2019 09:11
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eracode:

 

I think the secrets to an even bead when applying the sealant are: steady and gentle even pressure on the gun trigger, maintain a constant angle and constant speed with the gun, and don’t clip the nozzle with a hole that’s too big - keep it small. Hold the gun at about 45 degrees, start at one end of the run and do it all in one pass - try to avoid going back to patch it up. Squeeze the sealant ahead of the direction of travel and so that the nozzle tip itself becomes a sort of initial gauge scraper for an even bead as it passes over the expelled sealant as you move it forward.

 

Then use the plastic gauge scrapers I linked above to finish it off. If you’ve applied the sealant in the way I’ve tried to describe, there shouldn’t be too much excess and the scraper won’t be removing a lot of excess.

 

And use masking tape as others have mentioned - I meant to say that in the earlier post. Remove the tape prior to using the scraper to get a smooth ride for the scraper.

 

 

+1 to (virtually all of) this. I'd go further and suggest experimenting a little in advance where it doesn't matter. Personally, I find I usually get better results with:

 

- a 60 degree angle, and sealing "behind" the gun. This doesn't "self smooth", you will need to give it a finger/spatula treatment. But this depends *a lot* on the particular sealant. Make sure you read the instructions on the sealant about water, meths, turps etc. as the right smoothing assistant

 

- a slightly bigger hole, more pressure and faster speed. I find a smaller hole + slower speed runs the risk of the sealant ribboning back over itself. On the flip side, too fast and you will get gaps. Again, depends on the sealant.

 

- a decent caulking gun can help with hand fatigue. You can get good results with a cheap one, but your hand will likely be sore afterwards. If you're on the Ryobi battery system, you could look at this too.

 

- masking tape sounds like a pain, and it can be fiddly getting it right, but it is worthwhile. Again, I would experiment in advance. Usually for the super sticky caulks, the plastic low tack stuff works best.


timmmay
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  #2357110 19-Nov-2019 09:42
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I have the cheapest manual caulking gun, since I rarely do anything that requires any precision. Definitely need to practice in advance. The sealant I need to use is really difficult to smooth based on my experiment, so I'll have to look into the best smoothing assistant - the pack recommends a particular one.




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  #2357546 19-Nov-2019 22:10
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neb:
eracode:

 

Think about using these things - they easily give a real professional finish without breaking the bank:

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/paint-partner-silicone-scrapers-yellow-4pk_p01660196

 

Those things aren't very good, they tend to drag the sealant along with them and produce a messy finish. Better is a finger wrapped in glad wrap and dipped in slightly soapy water.

 

The trick is to put (clean) slightly soapy water on them. They make a really nice job very easily once you do that.


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