Rikkitic:

Plug the UK board into another NZ board before pluging into mains, and you will have the 10 amp protection.

 

There must be an awful lot of people with houses on fire. 

It's not a great plan but it's not an immediate fire hazard. Too many connections and too much cable in series means that there might not be enough fault current left to trip the breaker immediately on a hard short.

The real hazard is plugging multiple items into an extension cord using tap-ons or double adapters, as they don't have overcurrent protection.

Common sense rules. He said he needed it for a single appliance drawing less than one amp (170 watts). Daisy-chaining is a bad idea when it used to max out the load through multiple connections. As a simple way of limiting the circuit to 10 amps, it is perfectly fine.

andrewNZ:

 

Please don't plug multiboards into multiboards for protection, that's how you burn your house down.

 

If they're not cheap crap multiboards with dodgy connections, and the total power load isn't much, then there's no problem to connect multiboards together.

However: The general rule is not to.

Simply because the general Joe Bloggs doesn't have an understanding on how different appliances pull more current than others, so it's easier to recommend that they're not daisy chained for overall safety.

Loose / high resistance connections paired with high current draw are the cause of heat generation which lead to fire. Cheap multiboards are horrible. You have to wiggle the plugs into their socket to make any form of connection. Avoid these like the plague.

Note all UK ‘13 amp’ plugs have a replaceable fuse which should be rated for the capabilities of the cable being protected.

If using low current devices just make sure they have at least 3 amp fuses so as the limit the fault current from any connection exceeding NZ wiring. 

To the OP - Can I ask what the kitchen appliance is?

You seem vague on the matter.

Dunnersfella:

 

To the OP - Can I ask what the kitchen appliance is?

 

You seem vague on the matter.

 

Deliberately vague, as I've just ordered one for myself, and if it's as good as I hope, I'm thinking of importing them to sell 😉

Rikkitic:

There must be an awful lot of people with houses on fire. 

 

MadEngineer:

Rikkitic:

 

There must be an awful lot of people with houses on fire. 

 

correct. Dozens a year

From the article you quoted (my emphasis): New Zealand Fire Service senior specialist fire investigator Colin Clemens said the misuse of multi-plug outlets was a serious issue, but lower-quality outlets should be safe if they were used only for low-drain devices.

In other words, another instance of Stuff hyping something up to make a sensationalist item. Note I did not suggest that anything more than the 170 watt device should be plugged into the board. I am not defending idiots who try to chain dozens of devices together. I am not suggesting that this is a good idea with a 2000 watt heater. I just said it is a quick and easy way to limit the British board to 10 amps.

SomeoneSomewhere:

UK equipment, I believe, uses a fuse in the plug to stop it exceeding 13A - replacing the plug removes this protection.

neb:

SomeoneSomewhere:

 

UK equipment, I believe, uses a fuse in the plug to stop it exceeding 13A - replacing the plug removes this protection.

 

The UK has ring mains which means every single plug and whatnot has to be individually fused. Since NZ doesn't use them, there's no need for the fusing here.

That's more about providing short circuit protection. A 16/20A breaker will generally still provide adequate protection for something on the end of a moderately long circuit and 10m extension lead, but a 32A is less likely to. So lower-rated protection is necessary.

NZ power boards have a built-in 10A circuit breaker that should trip if you exceed the maximum load. Generally they are thermal-only, and short circuit protection is still provided by the magnetic trip in the supply MCB.

If a UK power board doesn't have that thermal breaker (or even if it does have one but it's 13A), the supply lead and plug are not protected against overloads because the fuse was providing both overload and short circuit protection.

Most appliances are built not to need overload protection - few faults can cause a kettle to draw 20A instead of 10A. Instead they draw 150A and blow the supply MCB. The issue is that in the UK 150A might take several seconds to trip the MCB, so the fuse is added.

Use these if 10A

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/deta-10a-heavy-duty-rewireable-plug-top_p0046005

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/deta-10amp-white-side-entry-plug-top_p0310353

15A

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/hpm-15a-white-plug-top_p0356065