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I had a similar problem with my mower. The problem was caused by the fuel cap not letting air into the tank as the tank emptied. Try loosening the cap as the engine starts to conk out. If it continues to run OK then the fuel cap may be the cause of the problem.
I remember the first lawn mower I tried to fix, it was daunting but a good experience to learn how engines work. Completely dissasembled and cleaned out the cylinder (it had become filled with oil).
Try taking out the existing spark plug and using steel wool on the tip to clean it. Thats like a 5 minute job. Otherwise you can get carburetor cleaner spray to spray out the fuel tank and into the fuel line + the carburator if its not too difficult to take the air filter off and get in there with the tin plastic nozzle.
So I had a chat to a mower person today. His guesses were something in the fuel line or carb as consistently it seems to use as much fuel as the primer feeds it before conking out, and it does sound when it conks out, like it's low on fuel. He thought a carb kit and labour might be $50-60 if it's straight forward.
Does that seem a reasonable conclusion on his part?
He said if it starts at all, the spark plug won't be causing that issue. He said to try and start it with the lid off and give the filter a quick clean as both of those things are a 2 minute job.
richms: Can of carb cleaner and spray it liberally in all openings of the carb works wonders I find.
I assume that means removing it from the mower? I had a look at a video or two, seems to be a few things that could end up going wrong LOL
networkn:
richms: Can of carb cleaner and spray it liberally in all openings of the carb works wonders I find.
I assume that means removing it from the mower? I had a look at a video or two, seems to be a few things that could end up going wrong LOL
Not necessarily. if you take the air filter off you gain direct access to the main "flap" area of the carburetor. Open the choke and the flap should open allowing you to spray around. But what may be even better is to take the hose off from the fuel tank, shove in the plastic stick off the can and give it some blasts.
So, got home, was bugging me, grabbed the mower out, tried to start it, same thing.
Unscrewed the airfilter, it was pretty gross, pulled it out, "washed" it in petrol, removed all the stuff that had accumulated, rewashed it in petrol, cleaned the housing and surrounding areas with paper towels and petrol and put it back together, and it's working now! Happy Camper am I!
Thanks for all the help and suggestions :)
networkn: The inspection was $30 and he thought it might need $100 worth of stuff, so at around $130 I am not sure I'd even get my money back if I sold it after that?
You might get another 8 years out of it. What's that worth?
Inspection money is usually deducted from the final bill. It's basically a deposit.
Add on a little more and get the blades sharpened at the same time.
EDIT: LOL - you posted while I was typing...
We have already replaced the mower with a different one, this thing is pretty gutless for mowing wet long grass, an indictment of the fact I don't mow often. I wanted to see if I could get it going so I could sell it to help offset the cost.
If the filter was that clogged up that it wouldnt start, then prior to that it would have been really lowering the power output of it so perhaps give it another go now that its cleaned. There are usually hoses on the carb that you can squirt carb cleaner into as well, the one that fuel goes into is a good start since that will get to the float valve that may be caked up with muck. But I have generally found the air inlet is enough to get it started and running and then new fuel going thru it seems to clear out contaminated crud from leaving it sitting over winter. Also works on generators.
richms:
If the filter was that clogged up that it wouldnt start, then prior to that it would have been really lowering the power output of it so perhaps give it another go now that its cleaned. There are usually hoses on the carb that you can squirt carb cleaner into as well, the one that fuel goes into is a good start since that will get to the float valve that may be caked up with muck. But I have generally found the air inlet is enough to get it started and running and then new fuel going thru it seems to clear out contaminated crud from leaving it sitting over winter. Also works on generators.
I managed to get it going by cleaning the air filter. It ran for 5 minutes without issue, then I stopped it, and restarted it and it ran another 5 minutes. I think that if someone wants to service it, they can do so at their own expense. I just want it out of my garage at this point.
I had the same experience with the air filter, made a world of difference. Re wet long grass, a blade sharpen will help a lot. I dont think many people ever sharpen the blades. One bolt, a file to tidy up the cutting edge, pop the blade back, a lovely clean cut
tdgeek:
I had the same experience with the air filter, made a world of difference. Re wet long grass, a blade sharpen will help a lot. I dont think many people ever sharpen the blades. One bolt, a file to tidy up the cutting edge, pop the blade back, a lovely clean cut
Unfortunately, this thing has been not that great since new. We only mow about once every 2 months so it's getting used 5-6 times a year, maybe 50 times ever :) The shop assembled it and sharpened the blade the day I bought it. Grass also catches in odd places like on the body near the exit chute, the catcher often "falls" off and yeah, overall it's a really average design.
The new model has about 1/2 again as much torque and an extra 50cc so I am hoping it should be a lot better. It's a stupid amount of overkill for a lawn my size really.
I assembled it last night so will have a go this weekend with it.
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