Advice Wanted - Cabling (PoE? Power? other?) whilst house is being re-roofed

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Advice Wanted - Cabling (PoE? Power? other?) whilst house is being re-roofed

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timbosan

2159 posts

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#2672422 12-Mar-2021 19:29

Daynger:

If you are running electrical cables you might want to get up to speed with ECP51 and as/nzs3000:2007

Dont run anything 230v within 50mm of the roofing sheets, its dangerous and illegal for a reason.

Thanks for the heads up - I will do some research on that. I don't plan on running anything that close to the roof, and I only plan on pre-wiring, no connection to the mains. That I will leave up to a sparky. My plan was originally focused around Cat6 cable, although that has changed slightly with all the ideas coming up!

timbosan

2159 posts

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#2672427 12-Mar-2021 19:49

Jase2985:

run some for access points too if you can

Actually I hadn't considered that - my current Unifi AP just sits on the ceiling with conduit to the wall, where it then goes to the server area via a door way.

timbosan

2159 posts

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#2672428 12-Mar-2021 19:54

So, using the magic of Paint I have developed a completely not-to-scale drawing with all the idea so far collated into one design. The house is small, only single level (but does have a basement, just not legal height so it can only be classed as a 'study' or something). Parking out front hence more cameras out that way.

One area I have yet to consider is security lights, although that may just simply be more runs of power cables into the walls with a decent amount of slack. Oh, and taking photos of everything so I don't forget where it all went!!!!

mdooher

Hmm, what to write...
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#2672432 12-Mar-2021 20:05

Daynger:

If you are running electrical cables you might want to get up to speed with ECP51 and as/nzs3000:2007

Dont run anything 230v within 50mm of the roofing sheets, its dangerous and illegal for a reason.

not quite. basically ignore ECP51 Once you get to the bit about "earth mother" you will see why

ASNZS3000 only prevents you running the cable between the iron and the purlin. You can run it along the side of purlin if it is free to move but i find that is a good place for audio etc. so I avoid it except for ceiling lighting

Matthew

neb

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#2672519 12-Mar-2021 22:04

As everyone else has already pointed out, a light switch near the access hole, lights, and a double power point, the latter not because you'll desperately need it but because there's no extra effort in putting in a double vs. a single. And run catwalks down the centre part of your roof space so you don't have to jump from rafter to rafter.

Also for your cabling get solid-core Cat6, the type meant for permanent installations. Wherever you want to run a cable, run two cables instead.

Finally, run four-core cable to relevant room corners and centres for movement and smoke alarm sensors.

Daynger

435 posts

Ultimate Geek

#2673758 13-Mar-2021 14:07

mdooher:

Daynger:

If you are running electrical cables you might want to get up to speed with ECP51 and as/nzs3000:2007

Dont run anything 230v within 50mm of the roofing sheets, its dangerous and illegal for a reason.

not quite. basically ignore ECP51 Once you get to the bit about "earth mother" you will see why

ASNZS3000 only prevents you running the cable between the iron and the purlin. You can run it along the side of purlin if it is free to move but i find that is a good place for audio etc. so I avoid it except for ceiling lighting

Actually quite.

ECP51 is the legal document for homeowners doing prescribed electrical work, which running of cables just so happens to be.

I havnt read it fully as it doesnt apply to me, but i did just search the PDF and the earth mother is a bit weird, but i guess they are trying to make sure locals who are into the whole hating of the white mans rules will potentially pay attention to it.

I do believe 3000 states a measurement to stop people pinclipping near the top of purlins (or anyhting else) where the purlin is what the roofing sits on, ill check when im next near my copy (edit 3.9.4.3.2)

Being that most roofing screws are 65-75mm i give a bit of clearance so that if anyone is screwing off and near misses they dont hit a cable.

I have also turned up to a job where we had run security cables above the purlins to keep them up out of the way then the AC guys decided that was a good idea for his unit feeds, umm, nope, pull em out boys.

mdooher

Hmm, what to write...
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#2673771 13-Mar-2021 15:00

Daynger:

Actually quite.

ECP51 is the legal document for homeowners doing prescribed electrical work, which running of cables just so happens to be.

I havnt read it fully as it doesnt apply to me, but i did just search the PDF and the earth mother is a bit weird, but i guess they are trying to make sure locals who are into the whole hating of the white mans rules will potentially pay attention to it.

I do believe 3000 states a measurement to stop people pinclipping near the top of purlins (or anyhting else) where the purlin is what the roofing sits on, ill check when im next near my copy (edit 3.9.4.3.2)

Being that most roofing screws are 65-75mm i give a bit of clearance so that if anyone is screwing off and near misses they dont hit a cable.

I have also turned up to a job where we had run security cables above the purlins to keep them up out of the way then the AC guys decided that was a good idea for his unit feeds, umm, nope, pull em out boys.

What I am getting at with the "ignore ECP51" is, if you are a homeowner and you run conductors you will need it inspected, so you will need to do it to 3000 anyway.

As for the pin-clips. as long as you leave room for the cable to move out of the way of the screw you are fine. Ie use long pin-clips or whatever else. The cable only needs to move 5mm or so . Also never do this where a nail gun might be used as the cable will not move fast enough to avoid damage.

Matthew

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pipe60

127 posts

Master Geek

#2674139 14-Mar-2021 09:40

Good time to prewire for an alarm system if you dont have one, Downlights look good in the eves,cable for any security lights,dont put any switchs/poe gear in roof, can use the top part of a wardrobe for a network point if you dont have a network cabinet in house.

timbosan

2159 posts

Uber Geek

#2675774 16-Mar-2021 20:53

pipe60:

Good time to prewire for an alarm system if you dont have one, Downlights look good in the eves,cable for any security lights,dont put any switchs/poe gear in roof, can use the top part of a wardrobe for a network point if you dont have a network cabinet in house.

Alarm stuff is something I hadn't thought off - eves will have power and cat 6. I will cable up into the roof for a possible switch but if I put one there it would be 'industrial' quality so able to handle the heat. Thanks!

timbosan

2159 posts

Uber Geek

#2675786 16-Mar-2021 21:03

Many thanks for all the replies so far, lots of help :-) This is my current plan:

Greenstuf insulation (R3.2) in the ceiling where it doesn't exist

Power to various points, all cabling run back towards the switchboard with 2m of slack

Power cabling will be TPS 2.5mm - is this one OK? https://www.bunnings.co.nz/nexans-2-core-earth-2-5mm-cable-x-100m-roll_p0157416

Data cabling will be Cat 6 solid core, but not UV rated. https://www.gowifi.co.nz/ethernetcablerolls/c-c6-sldblue.html
-> any advantage of spending more? https://www.gowifi.co.nz/ethernetcablerolls/uc-c6-cmr.html

Lights and 2 x power points in the ceiling space + 2 x Cat6 to each point with RJ45 jacks

Power + 2 x Cat6 to each corner of the house, ending at the soffits.
-> Do I just leave them into the soffits or should I punch through and add junction boxes to mark them?

Anything I should be aware of electrically? I did plan on a junction box at the front of the house, but will now daisy chain the lights. Is that OK?

Is 2m slack on the power cable enough? The board is old and needs changing, which will result in a new internal board and RCD's, however they should be almost above the old power board.

neb

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#2675838 16-Mar-2021 21:51

timbosan:Power + 2 x Cat6 to each corner of the house, ending at the soffits.
-> Do I just leave them into the soffits or should I punch through and add junction boxes to mark them?

Depends on how accessible they will be afterwards and where you want the cabling to go. If its for soffit-mounted security cameras to be added soonish, just leave a metre or so of Cat6 hanging out of a hole in the soffit and you can crimp on an RJ45 when you fit the camera. If it's for use much later and you've got rafters sitting on a top plate which effectively blocks access into the soffit area then accessing them afterwards will mean cutting into the soffit so you can reach into it to fish the wires out. What you could do is cut a 20mm hole and put a white draw wire around the cabling (assuming the soffit will be painted white or similar), then put white tape over the wire and hole to mask it. When you need access, peel back the tape and pull out the cabling with the draw wire.

Alternatively, coil up the Cat6 in the soffit with an end taped into place as above so you can pull it out when needed.

sparkz25

750 posts

Ultimate Geek
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#2675869 16-Mar-2021 22:40

timbosan:

Data cabling will be Cat 6 solid core, but not UV rated. https://www.gowifi.co.nz/ethernetcablerolls/c-c6-sldblue.html
-> any advantage of spending more? https://www.gowifi.co.nz/ethernetcablerolls/uc-c6-cmr.html

Lights and 2 x power points in the ceiling space + 2 x Cat6 to each point with RJ45 jacks

Power + 2 x Cat6 to each corner of the house, ending at the soffits.
-> Do I just leave them into the soffits or should I punch through and add junction boxes to mark them?

Anything I should be aware of electrically? I did plan on a junction box at the front of the house, but will now daisy chain the lights. Is that OK?

Is 2m slack on the power cable enough? The board is old and needs changing, which will result in a new internal board and RCD's, however they should be almost above the old power board.

The cheaper cat 6cable is fine, have used it and there is nothing wrong with it.

Definitely install the ceiling light switch next to the manhole, and also use LED lamps as they do not generate much heat, and if you do hit one it's not going to smash and leave glass everywhere and install one lamp at one end and another at the other end, I have 4 in my ceiling and going to install another few because you can never have enough light in the ceiling.

Why not install LED downlights in the soffit near the corners then you can pop one of those out and grab the cable later on.

Daisy chain would be better for fault finding as junctions in ceiling spaces can be a pain in the a$$

cable is cheap. From memory you cant install the MAIN Switch above 2m so if you have a 3m stud then that extra 1m of cable will go along way, also never hurts to have a little bit of slack in the cables.

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