Screw this cold!

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nickb800

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#832114 7-Jun-2013 10:37

wallop: Maybe airfoam is a different chemical mixture compared to Expol? All the Expol bags I have used have a warning on the them about not touching cables. From what I was told the polystyrene reacts with the cables insulation eventually causing them to short out. You can wrap the cables to protect them. From the Expol website -

"For cables that come into DIRECT contact with Expol Underfloor, place Expol Wireguard around the wires before installation.".

Yep this is very important, here's the full story (PDF)

DarthKermit

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#832219 7-Jun-2013 11:56

^^^

I installed Expol under the floor a few years ago. I made sure to physically isolate the polystryrene from any electrical cables.

Also, there was a PVC storm water pipe to work around. I cut a section out of the Expol so that it wouldn't touch the PVC pipe, just as a precaution.

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DarthKermit

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#832400 7-Jun-2013 18:42

Ok, spent some of the afternoon removing all the rest of the gib on this wall and blocking up the gap at the top. The next step is to smooth off some rough bumps on the studs/dwangs and punch in any sticking out nails. Then I'll drill some holes for conduits.

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mattwnz

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#832403 7-Jun-2013 18:58

Niel: The other issue with Airfoam is they assume the whole cavity is filled, but it is usually not especially in the corners.

Bradford Gold is good stuff and you don't need a mask/gloves. Pink batts are slightly better but not nice to work with.

If the walls are stripped then I'd go for polystyrene and seal around the perimeter. If the normal insulation size is not suitable for you, you can buy custom sizes direct from Expol. The concertina edge is so you do not have to seal it up (i.e. fast easy install), but solid polystyrene cut to size and sealed is much better.

Aren't they both fibre glass, one is yellow, the other is pink? I would be using gloves and masks with both. They also recommend stappling around them into the studs to minimise slump.

I would use XPS, rather than polystyrene, due to better R Values. Or Kingspan, which is over 4

mattwnz

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#832406 7-Jun-2013 19:01

langers1972:
mattwnz:
timmmay:
As I redo the gib I do replace it with pink batts. I'll look at that Cellostuff.
.

Apparently this stuff http://www.kingspaninsulation.co.nz/ has an R value of over 4 in a 90mm thickness, which is a lot better than others. But I am guessing it is expensive.

Yes because it's imported by Forman who also happen to own Pink Batts so, as usual, Kiwis are forced to use an inferior product as a big player controls the market. This stuff is as common as a cold in Europe but over here it's being artificially priced out of the market which is a shame as it's by far and away superior to glass fibre.

That really sucks if it is priced out of the market, because it would solve many of the problems with NZ houses in terms of energy loss. Fibre glass is no where near as good.

stuzzo

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#832418 7-Jun-2013 19:50

The discussion on batts is becoming a little bit silly. They are a perfectly good product if used and installed correctly and are not the cause of any NZ housing woes. They may have a lower R value generally but that can be boosted by buying a denser batt. The Auckland Passivhaus uses Pink Batts as it's insulation.

I guess the reason they are so widely used here is partly historic but mainly price advantages. Building products are expensive, a subject of a current government enquiry.

From an environmental perspective batts are substantially made from recycled glass while polystyrene products from petrochemicals so they get my vote there though the future in this regard may be insulation fiberboard products.

Batman

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#832422 7-Jun-2013 20:19

just wondering, when you re-fit the light switches and sockets do you need an electrician?

what if you changed the light switches and sockets to a newer type, do you need an electrician?

also are you going to put building paper or anything between the batts and the exterior cladding?

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nickb800

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#832426 7-Jun-2013 20:24

Should be fine to do electrical work like that yourself, including new switches & sockets, ref consumerbuild

DarthKermit

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#832427 7-Jun-2013 20:29

joker97: just wondering, when you re-fit the light switches and sockets do you need an electrician?

what if you changed the light switches and sockets to a newer type, do you need an electrician?

also are you going to put building paper or anything between the batts and the exterior cladding?

Not sure if you need a sparky if you simply change from one model of switch/socket to another.

There is already a layer of old building paper behind the chicken wire. It all appears to be in good condition with no moisture present. This wall mostly faces into the prevailing westerly.

There is some borer damage in the wall (it's like this all over our house), but it's not so bad that anything is going to fall down.

I haven't decided on what insulation I'll install yet. I'm just getting my walls all ready for when I do decide. Other people might benefit from my experience and get some ideas from the advice in this thread.

Whatifthespacekeyhadneverbeeninvented?

stuzzo

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#832436 7-Jun-2013 20:45

There is already a layer of old building paper behind the chicken wire. It all appears to be in good condition with no moisture present. This wall mostly faces into the prevailing westerly.

There is some borer damage in the wall (it's like this all over our house), but it's not so bad that anything is going to fall down.

I'd still vote for a gap, this is usual with brick and stucco walls, part of building code I think ( won't mention it again-promise!).

Borer treatment is a good idea whenever you have a wall open, the fluid is expensive though. An alternative could be borax though I've never used it.

timmmay

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#832447 7-Jun-2013 21:13

Borer treatment for a small area shouldn't be expensive. I think I paid around $1000 for my whole house, and it's a really difficult one to treat - narrow access underneath, lowered ceiling, a real pain in the butt for the guy who did it.

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