Wood burner fireplaces - how to make my logs last longer?

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Wood burner fireplaces - how to make my logs last longer?

1 | 2 | 3 | 4

45 posts

Geek

#3398157 30-Jul-2025 08:35

turtleattacks:

Bung:

Even though it is new I'd still check that a strip of paper is trapped between the door seal and firebox on all 4 sides. You should still see a difference between air open fully and closed down on urban fires.

Ok, another silly question.... with the damper on high or low, where does it suck in the air from?

Chimney?

No. Secondary air intakes. These are often in the form of round or square pipes in the rear or top of the firebox with small holes drilled into them. On all Woodsman fires and the newest Masport ULEB fires they use their baffle plate as a 3rd.

Here's the exploded diagram of a Woodsman Brunner/Tasman MK2 Low Emission logfire:

And the parts guide - I've highlighted the secondary air intakes for this fire: the round airtube and the top baffle plate with arrows showing where air comes in and where it exits within the fire:

turtleattacks

919 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#3398158 30-Jul-2025 08:37

Thanks! I see those small holes! I'll try to find some magnets.

Are Woodsman any good for the price range., we were considering Masport but got talked into buying this.

----

Creator of whatsthesalary.com

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398160 30-Jul-2025 08:50

turtleattacks:

Thanks! I see those small holes! I'll try to find some magnets.

Are Woodsman any good for the price range., we were considering Masport but got talked into buying this.

Woodsman's latest offerings are of better quality compared to their last 3 generations of fires (circa 2000's - 2020) which we carry out a shed load of repairs on (we're doing 5 repairs on older Woodsman's today - bricks, airtubes, glass retainers etc). Masport I use as my yard stick - they're like the Toyota in the logfire world; just build well and work. However, their latest offerings have some manufacturing issues that aren't big, but are still annoying (e.g. whistling airtubes, door latches not seated correctly) and are also burning hard and high like the Woodsman's.

If anyone reading this is going "right, I want the best" then the answer is Firenzo. But that comes at a cost - almost twice the price of Woodsman's, Masport's, and Metro's (the big 3 in NZ logfire industry). I myself just installed a Firenzo Lady Kitchener ULEB and get overnight burns. That due to the sheer amount of fire bricks and ceramic insulation mass they use in their fires. Built like brick toilets and will last for decades.

You've got a good fire. Most ULEB's won't turn down all that much due to design to pass the strict air pollution controls (Christchurch has the strictest in the country, so they all test their fires to that standard). Unless you do a modification but that 1) void's your warranty, 2) can invalidate your house insurance if there was ever an issue. So, do something temporary, like putting on flat magnets over the front airslide and remove when done.

turtleattacks

919 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#3398161 30-Jul-2025 08:53

Swept:

turtleattacks:

Thanks! I see those small holes! I'll try to find some magnets.

Are Woodsman any good for the price range., we were considering Masport but got talked into buying this.

Woodsman's latest offerings are of better quality compared to their last 3 generations of fires (circa 2000's - 2020) which we carry out a shed load of repairs on (we're doing 5 repairs on older Woodsman's today - bricks, airtubes, glass retainers etc). Masport I use as my yard stick - they're like the Toyota in the logfire world; just build well and work. However, their latest offerings have some manufacturing issues that aren't big, but are still annoying (e.g. whistling airtubes, door latches not seated correctly) and are also burning hard and high like the Woodsman's.

If anyone reading this is going "right, I want the best" then the answer is Firenzo. But that comes at a cost - almost twice the price of Woodsman's, Masport's, and Metro's (the big 3 in NZ logfire industry). I myself just installed a Firenzo Lady Kitchener ULEB and get overnight burns. That due to the sheer amount of fire bricks and ceramic insulation mass they use in their fires. Built like brick toilets and will last for decades.

You've got a good fire. Most ULEB's won't turn down all that much due to design to pass the strict air pollution controls (Christchurch has the strictest in the country, so they all test their fires to that standard). Unless you do a modification but that 1) void's your warranty, 2) can invalidate your house insurance if there was ever an issue. So, do something temporary, like putting on flat magnets over the front airslide and remove when done.

Thanks! I may have spoken to you on Reddit, you are very generous with your time and experience.

Really appreciate your kindness.

----

Creator of whatsthesalary.com

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398163 30-Jul-2025 08:58

You're most welcome! Over the last 15 years I've gathered a silly amount of knowledge on this niche area of logfires and just want to help people otherwise it's almost for naught. And.....I'm also procrastinating on starting my day (I'm waiting to go help one of my guys on a not-so-pleasant-job with a not-so-nice customer).

Bung

6489 posts

Uber Geek

Subscriber

#3398166 30-Jul-2025 09:18

Swept:

No. Secondary air intakes. These are often in the form of round or square pipes in the rear or top of the firebox with small holes drilled into them. On all Woodsman fires and the newest Masport ULEB fires they use their baffle plate as a 3rd.

How thick is the steel on the baffle plate air system? The stainless tubes used in top air tubes at the front of the baffle don’t seem to last. Replacing them is about $90 or bodging a slip on length of heavy gauge water pipe. Having the whole top baffle involved looks like an expensive consumable.

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398214 30-Jul-2025 10:07

Bung:

Swept:

No. Secondary air intakes. These are often in the form of round or square pipes in the rear or top of the firebox with small holes drilled into them. On all Woodsman fires and the newest Masport ULEB fires they use their baffle plate as a 3rd.

How thick is the steel on the baffle plate air system? The stainless tubes used in top air tubes at the front of the baffle don’t seem to last. Replacing them is about $90 or bodging a slip on length of heavy gauge water pipe. Having the whole top baffle involved looks like an expensive consumable.

On Woodsman baffles, they're 2.5mm thick 304 grade stainless. Almost all stainless in logfires is 304 grade. Airtubes will be 1-2mm side wall. Stainless steel airtubes should last around 4-7 years. If you're burning through them every year I'd be checking 1) door seal, 2) rear airtube isn't clogged up with ash, 3) check what wood you're burning (treated wood will rip through stainless).

Sharesies

Trade NZ and US shares and funds with Sharesies (affiliate link).

djtOtago

1153 posts

Uber Geek

#3398224 30-Jul-2025 10:53

When our 30 year old Yunca multi fuel fire developed a split in the back of the fire box, we choose to get it repaired and reconditioned by Yunca. We also got the Flue replaced at the same time.
Unless it has been really windy overnight, the first person up in the morning just needs to open the two dampers, give it about five minutes to burst back into life, throw a new log in it, give it another 10 minutes or so, then turn it back down. Throw another log or two on as I go out the door to work, it will last for the rest of the day, I just need to turn it up again when I get home at 5 ish and away it goes.

For June, July the fire rarely goes out. Being a multi fuel, it has an ash pan, so we can easily empty ash while it is still burning away.

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398229 30-Jul-2025 11:33

djtOtago:

When our 30 year old Yunca multi fuel fire developed a split in the back of the fire box, we choose to get it repaired and reconditioned by Yunca. We also got the Flue replaced at the same time.
Unless it has been really windy overnight, the first person up in the morning just needs to open the two dampers, give it about five minutes to burst back into life, throw a new log in it, give it another 10 minutes or so, then turn it back down. Throw another log or two on as I go out the door to work, it will last for the rest of the day, I just need to turn it up again when I get home at 5 ish and away it goes.

For June, July the fire rarely goes out. Being a multi fuel, it has an ash pan, so we can easily empty ash while it is still burning away.

Haha yeah you're comparing apples with a strip club there; completely different things. Those Yunca NM Multi's do go hard. Cast iron, with cast iron internals, coal burning set-up. They don't make them like that anymore.

turtleattacks

919 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#3398232 30-Jul-2025 11:38

Speaking of which, do you guys have a preference on firestarter blocks?

I've been using the Samba white ones but they really leave a stinky smell residue on the fingers.

----

Creator of whatsthesalary.com

djtOtago

1153 posts

Uber Geek

#3398234 30-Jul-2025 11:57

For me just paper and a bit of kindling works fine. If you want to use a fire starter block, look for some that use bee's wax.

Edit.
Next door uses https://www.woolworths.co.nz/shop/productdetails?stockcode=326498&name=samba-fire-lighters-wooden They don't appear to have a smell.

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398238 30-Jul-2025 12:42

turtleattacks:

Speaking of which, do you guys have a preference on firestarter blocks?

I've been using the Samba white ones but they really leave a stinky smell residue on the fingers.

Haha yeah, those Samba white ones are my go to. I hate the brown ones - they just tickle then smoulder out. Alternatively, get a Jet Flame lighter and just go hard on kindling until it goes: https://www.shosha.co.nz/jet-flame-kiwi-lighter-premium-jj12

freitasm

BDFL - Memuneh
79295 posts

Uber Geek

Administrator

ID Verified

Trusted

Geekzone

Lifetime subscriber

#3398450 30-Jul-2025 16:47

@Swept:

Yes. That's your 'primary air' in which you control. Get some magnets to stick over and cover the holes but still allow 2-3mm gap when its fully shut down. Secondary air comes via the airtube/s which are the round pipe/s in the rear of the firebox with holes drilled into it. Finally, Woodsman use their baffle as a third air intake which is unique to their logfire design and have done so for 30-40 years.

Source: I'm a professional chimney sweep.

Does this break any law/regulation?

Swept

45 posts

Geek

#3398463 30-Jul-2025 17:23

freitasm:

@Swept:

Yes. That's your 'primary air' in which you control. Get some magnets to stick over and cover the holes but still allow 2-3mm gap when its fully shut down. Secondary air comes via the airtube/s which are the round pipe/s in the rear of the firebox with holes drilled into it. Finally, Woodsman use their baffle as a third air intake which is unique to their logfire design and have done so for 30-40 years.

Source: I'm a professional chimney sweep.

Does this break any law/regulation?

Yes. One, you are modifying the appliance against how it was independently tested and signed off on. Two, it can be used by the manufacturers to void any warranty work that may or may not be due to "improper use" regardless if it was caused by this or not, e.g. the paint on the firebox panels is flaking off - more likely due to poor prep in the paint booth at the factory, but they'll try wiggle out of it. Three, you are modifying a consented item within your house - we all know what insurance companies think of this.

These are the risks, user beware. I don't suggest you do these things. Ironically, the most severe cases of damage done to fire, flue, or house, is not from people modifying their fires, but from burning the wrong things; wet wood, treated wood, coal, and rubbish.

turtleattacks

919 posts

Ultimate Geek

Trusted

#3398466 30-Jul-2025 18:12

Swept:

freitasm:

@Swept:

Yes. That's your 'primary air' in which you control. Get some magnets to stick over and cover the holes but still allow 2-3mm gap when its fully shut down. Secondary air comes via the airtube/s which are the round pipe/s in the rear of the firebox with holes drilled into it. Finally, Woodsman use their baffle as a third air intake which is unique to their logfire design and have done so for 30-40 years.

Source: I'm a professional chimney sweep.

Does this break any law/regulation?

Yes. One, you are modifying the appliance against how it was independently tested and signed off on. Two, it can be used by the manufacturers to void any warranty work that may or may not be due to "improper use" regardless if it was caused by this or not, e.g. the paint on the firebox panels is flaking off - more likely due to poor prep in the paint booth at the factory, but they'll try wiggle out of it. Three, you are modifying a consented item within your house - we all know what insurance companies think of this.

These are the risks, user beware. I don't suggest you do these things. Ironically, the most severe cases of damage done to fire, flue, or house, is not from people modifying their fires, but from burning the wrong things; wet wood, treated wood, coal, and rubbish.

What kind of rubbish am I allowed to burn? :D

Toilet rolls, and paper towel rolls okay?

How can wet wood damage the flute?

----

Creator of whatsthesalary.com

1 | 2 | 3 | 4