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jonathan18

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#306786 21-Aug-2023 13:46
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Our deck has a couple of places where water pools in heavy or constant rain; the photo below shows the worst of these. It's always done this - I imagine the builder didn't get the slope correct. (I also think he should have thought about laying the timber 90 degrees to this; the deck runs between the main house and a sleepout, so it would have made sense to have it so water could run off the ends where the deck doesn't sit against a dwelling!)

 

Whatever the cause, I'm looking for advice on a relatively straight-forward solution that doesn't involve lifting the timber.

 

Easiest option would be drilling holes;  I've read some suggesting using an 8mm drill bit. If I did do this, am I best to do one per board at the lowest point (ideally in a line to make it look not so bad!)? Or, if more than one per board, how many and how far apart? I've read warnings that such holes will expose the inside of the timber so will rot more quickly; I wondered if drilling a larger hole and inserting a grommet of some kind could offer some protection?

 

Another option would be shaving a few mm off the sides of the boards to provide better drainage (circular saw? router?); I do wonder, though, if this will fully clear the pooling? (This isn't something I'd be comfortable doing myself, but could look to get the builder who should be building a fence for us soon to do.)

 

Anyway, thanks any ideas.

 

 

 


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eracode
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  #3118902 22-Aug-2023 08:45
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IANAChippy but IMO I'm a pretty skilled DIY'er and have successfully built many decks over a 45-year period - pine, hardwood and composite. As seen in this thread, there's several solutions that could be used here. I believe the best practical solution in your case is one of those suggested above - run a circ saw along the 'join' in the affected boards to create a normal sort of drainage gap between them. 

 

Set the saw so that the cut depth is barely more than the thickness of the boards so that you're not cutting into the joists. This will create a gap of about 3mm which is fairly standard for most new decks. Lightly sand to round-over (or bevel) the tops of the new cuts so that they don't look so newly-modified. Even though these boards may not match the gaps (or lack of gaps) in the other boards, it's probably a small price to pay if you want the deck to drain - and it will work well.

 

It's a really simple job. The reason I asked where you are located is because if you were near us in Auckland, I would be happy to do it for you - but it sounds like you will have a builder on hand shortly anyway.





Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.


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