Oveflow - ballcock problem

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ADKM

860 posts

Ultimate Geek

#143967 3-May-2014 11:11

We've ongoing problems with the overflow spilling water as the ballcock hasn't cut off.

I think it's installed too high in the tank. is it OK to move it down an inch or two i.e. cut a new hole for it in the tank?

It's a brass one and I've bent the arm down as much as possible. Now I'm told this puts more pressure on the washer which gives out sooner and then leaks.

linw

2850 posts

Uber Geek

#1035930 3-May-2014 11:33

Oooh, can't imagine anyone has had to move the ballcock assembly down.

You omit to say whether you have changed the washer! If you have, and it still leaks, you need to buy a new ballcock assembly I would say.

Just had another thought. Check that the ball is not half full of water - it has happened.

Sidestep

1013 posts

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Lifetime subscriber

#1035931 3-May-2014 11:34

Before you go to the trouble of cutting a new hole, check the action of the ballcock.
In my experience they (esp the brass type) do fail.
And it won't cause early failure by bending the float arm as it'll still cut off at the same pressure, it's just likely the pressure required is increasing due to wear or hardening.
Can you watch as it fills to the shutoff point and see what happens?

Bung

6502 posts

Uber Geek

Subscriber

#1035937 3-May-2014 11:59

Occasionally you may find that the nipple is loose so water is leaking past it even though the washer is sealed tight against the end. It screws in from the input pipe end.

ADKM

860 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1035939 3-May-2014 12:02

When it failed last time I fixed it by changing the washer. That was maybe a year ago...

I bought a new (plastic) unit and can see if filling. By the time it shuts off the water level is past the overflow outlet. That's made me think
moving the whole thing down would work. Is there a recommended distance between the outlet and where the assy sits ?

I could also try another washer in the brass one. The ball hasn't got water in it.

robjg63

4100 posts

Uber Geek

Subscriber

#1035946 3-May-2014 12:26

Its nearly always the washer and seat part rather than the float.
So provided the ballcock hasnt got water in it check the washer - bet that's causing the shut off problem.

Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler

jonb

1772 posts

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Trusted

#1035949 3-May-2014 12:37

I'm surprised all these posts got past the geekzone rude word checker..

Bung

6502 posts

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Subscriber

#1035952 3-May-2014 12:44

ADKM:I bought a new (plastic) unit and can see if filling. By the time it shuts off the water level is past the overflow outlet.

If you've changed the whole ballcock unit did you adjust the float level?

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Dratsab

3946 posts

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#1035958 3-May-2014 13:05

I had exactly this problem with my ancient header tank system (2 large tanks side by side) recently. One wouldn't shut off and the overflow was overfilling the other tank which was then spilling out of the overflow pipe. I took the lid off the tanks and saw straight away some silly person had bent one of the arms (on the tank which wasn't shutting off) indicating there'd been a problem before but they didn't want to fix it. It was an easy fix:

1. Shut off water at toby (or at tank if you have a shut off valve there)
2. Disassemble mechanism
3. Carefully straighten out arm as much as possible
4. Take end of assembly to local plumbing shop to get correct size washer (mine was 70 cents)
5. After fitting washer, reassemble mechanism
6. Turn water back on.

Gilco2

1556 posts

Uber Geek

#1035961 3-May-2014 13:12

we used to have heaps of trouble with the ballcock valve due to grit getting in and chewing seals out. In the end I installed a Fluidmaster unit and never looked back. Easy fit and adjust then forget about it

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RunningMan

8963 posts

Uber Geek

#1035988 3-May-2014 14:05

Can you post a photo of the current setup - is it one of the fluidmaster plastic float valves?

ADKM

860 posts

Ultimate Geek

#1035993 3-May-2014 14:33

Many thanks everyone. :) I've just replaced the washer and all seems OK. BUT this time I realised it unscrews to fit the washer neatly in. Last
time I forced it in, wondering why the 'right' thing was too big. Duh! Maybe this will last longer.

The arm is bent a bit, and I couldn't see how to get at the nipple (quiet, jonb!!!) or the float. Also the hole allowed me to slot the assy down a little.
Now the overflow is a good inch or two above the water. Previously it was lapping out (because the washer was leaking I guess).

Hopefully I can return the new unit.
Thanks again, help much appreciated.

Bung

6502 posts

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Subscriber

#1036018 3-May-2014 14:56

ADKM:
The arm is bent a bit, and I couldn't see how to get at the nipple (quiet, jonb!!!) or the float. Also the hole allowed me to slot the assy down a little.
Now the overflow is a good inch or two above the water. Previously it was lapping out (because the washer was leaking I guess).

Don't fixate on how bent the arm is, it is a legitimate way of setting the desired level. You've explained that the leak was probably how the washer was forced into the holder but the stainless steel valve seat screws in from the input side. You'd have to take the unit out to see the screwdriver slot in the end of it.

gzt

17160 posts

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Lifetime subscriber

#1036160 3-May-2014 19:17

Replace the cistern washer at the same time, it will almost certainly go very soon after.

farns

97 posts

Master Geek

#1038340 7-May-2014 13:34

You can get bigger float too