Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder.
Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?
I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there?
Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder.
Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?
I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there?
Thanks, I understand your reserve.
I am pretty sure my fusebox has some spare bays, I will need to check again. Regarding your solution: How do I get an ignition switched signal to trigger the relay? I mean, where do I feed that from?
If so then it's straight forward to move that circuit to an ignition switched feed.
How straight forward?
About 15 mins worth of work but if you are unsure about soldering or general electrical work then you might want to get an autosparky to do it and pay the 1 hour of labour.
Pretty sure my car doesn't support AUX. The transmitter I got is surprisingly good. does bluetooth with a good connection and supplies a pretty good sound
Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder.
Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?
I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there?
Thanks, I understand your reserve.
I am pretty sure my fusebox has some spare bays, I will need to check again. Regarding your solution: How do I get an ignition switched signal to trigger the relay? I mean, where do I feed that from?
Thanks
You can take it from pretty much anywhere, its just a trigger wire so doesnt get loaded up. As long as the source is switched with ignition you wont have an issue. I'd just take it from your radio, Should have a blue "remote" wire that will power up when the ignition is on. (If aftermarket, or check your wiring diagram online and it will also have an ignition wire in it too. Was yellow on my last car, 12v red and gnd black.)
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Pretty sure my car doesn't support AUX. The transmitter I got is surprisingly good. does bluetooth with a good connection and supplies a pretty good sound
You can take it from pretty much anywhere, its just a trigger wire so doesnt get loaded up. As long as the source is switched with ignition you wont have an issue. I'd just take it from your radio, Should have a blue "remote" wire that will power up when the ignition is on. (If aftermarket, or check your wiring diagram online and it will also have an ignition wire in it too. Was yellow on my last car, 12v red and gnd black.)
Sorry, just having a hard time figuring out where everything is gonna go. Is the relay gonna go near the fuse box?
Really trying to limit the amount of cutting existing cables as well as dismantling anything in the car if I can.
+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse. Permanent and done well.
Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.
Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?
+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse. Permanent and done well.
Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.
Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?
Thanks
Apologies for my lack of clarity.
The fusebox will be split up into groups.
One group is Always On e.g. alarm, stereo memory lead, hazard lights etc.
One group comes on when the ignition-key is turned to ACC e.g. the stereo
On group comes on when the key is turned to ON e.g. the A/C fan
It sounds like your 12V socket is currently part of the Always On fuse group.
If I was you I would have the (+) lead powering the 12v socket moved from it's current position within the Always On fuse group to a spare slot in the ACC fuse group so it has power when the stereo does. This is easy for an auto sparky to do and it will be a permanent and tidy solution.
+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse. Permanent and done well.
Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.
Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?
Thanks
Apologies for my lack of clarity.
The fusebox will be split up into groups.
One group is Always On e.g. alarm, stereo memory lead, hazard lights etc.
One group comes on when the ignition-key is turned to ACC e.g. the stereo
On group comes on when the key is turned to ON e.g. the A/C fan
It sounds like your 12V socket is currently part of the Always On fuse group.
If I was you I would have the (+) lead powering the 12v socket moved from it's current position within the Always On fuse group to a spare slot in the ACC fuse group so it has power when the stereo does. This is easy for an auto sparky to do and it will be a permanent and tidy solution.
I see, so you are advising me to change the wiring at the back of the fusebox to move the wire that currently goes to my cig lighter fuse to another empty fuse bay that I know to be only when when the ignition is in ACC. Correct?
In other words, all I am doing is moving one (presumably red) cable from one fuse to another, making sure the new fuse is part of the ACC group?
I see, so you are advising me to change the wiring at the back of the fusebox to move the wire that currently goes to my cig lighter fuse to another empty fuse bay that I know to be only when when the ignition is in ACC. Correct?
In other words, all I am doing is moving one (presumably red) cable from one fuse to another, making sure the new fuse is part of the ACC group?
That's it. The legend diagram on your fusebox may have the ACC labels as well.
Depends on how the leads are attached and bundled how easy it is to move them. This is where an auto-sparky may be required.
On my vehicle the leads have blade terminals so it's very easy.
Another way but easier than wiring in a relay - disconnect the power wire at the back of the lighter socket. And instead connect it to the ACC wire at the back of the radio. An FM transmitter is unlikely to draw much power, so the extra load on the radio's ACC power lead is unlikely to cause any problems.
Another option - your car's OBD2 port will probably have a wire that turns on when the ignition is on. Meaning you can just buy a blank OBD2 plug and a aftermarket ciggie lighter socket and connect them together. Meaning you will get what you want without needing to modify anything on the car. Only problem is that it won't supply power on ACC, which is only an issue if you like to listen to music in the car without the engine running.
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