Geekzone: technology news, blogs, forums
Guest
Welcome Guest.
You haven't logged in yet. If you don't have an account you can register now.


View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic
1 | 2 | 3
gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828219 24-Jul-2017 10:17
Send private message

Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder. 

 

Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?




Coil
6614 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2153
Inactive user


  #1828234 24-Jul-2017 10:37
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder. 

 

Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?

 

 

 

 

I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. 
I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there? 


gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828237 24-Jul-2017 10:45
Send private message

Coil:

 

gcorgnet:

 

Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder. 

 

Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?

 

 

I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. 
I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there? 

 

 

Thanks, I understand your reserve. 

 

I am pretty sure my fusebox has some spare bays, I will need to check again. Regarding your solution: How do I get an ignition switched signal to trigger the relay? I mean, where do I feed that from?

 

Thanks




Mattmannz
471 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 88


  #1828291 24-Jul-2017 12:05
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

Mattmannz:

 

Is the cig lighter socket on it's own fuse?

 

If so then it's straight forward to move that circuit to an ignition switched feed.

 

 

 

 

How straight forward?

 

 

 

 

About 15 mins worth of work but if you are unsure about soldering or general electrical work then you might want to get an autosparky to do it and pay the 1 hour of labour.


allio
895 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 529


  #1828299 24-Jul-2017 12:10
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

Pretty sure my car doesn't support AUX. The transmitter I got is surprisingly good. does bluetooth with a good connection and supplies a pretty good sound

 

 

Would you mind sharing the model?


Coil
6614 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2153
Inactive user


  #1828300 24-Jul-2017 12:13
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

Coil:

 

gcorgnet:

 

Coil: Just by getting some flat spade connectors and shoving it in the fuses holder. 

 

Thanks for the image. So which fuse holder would I use here? I am guessing this contraption would be going across 2 different fuse bays?

 

 

I personally do not suggest using fuse carriers and piggyback crap with spade connectors, it works but i am not in favor. 
I suppose what Solutionz posted will suffice but nothing beats soldered connections and proper mounting. Also does your fuse box allow for more stuff to be crammed in there? 

 

 

Thanks, I understand your reserve. 

 

I am pretty sure my fusebox has some spare bays, I will need to check again. Regarding your solution: How do I get an ignition switched signal to trigger the relay? I mean, where do I feed that from?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

You can take it from pretty much anywhere, its just a trigger wire so doesnt get loaded up.
As long as the source is switched with ignition you wont have an issue. I'd just take it from your radio, Should have a blue "remote" wire that will power up when the ignition is on. (If aftermarket, or check your wiring diagram online and it will also have an ignition wire in it too. Was yellow on my last car, 12v red and gnd black.)



 
 
 

Shop now at Mighty Ape (affiliate link).
MikeAqua
8024 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 3818


  #1828314 24-Jul-2017 12:28
Send private message

+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse.  Permanent and done well.

 

Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.





Mike


gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828370 24-Jul-2017 13:32
Send private message

allio:

 

gcorgnet:

 

Pretty sure my car doesn't support AUX. The transmitter I got is surprisingly good. does bluetooth with a good connection and supplies a pretty good sound

 

 

Would you mind sharing the model?

 

 

Ford Fiesta 2005


gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828374 24-Jul-2017 13:35
Send private message

Coil:

 

 

 

You can take it from pretty much anywhere, its just a trigger wire so doesnt get loaded up.
As long as the source is switched with ignition you wont have an issue. I'd just take it from your radio, Should have a blue "remote" wire that will power up when the ignition is on. (If aftermarket, or check your wiring diagram online and it will also have an ignition wire in it too. Was yellow on my last car, 12v red and gnd black.)

 

 

Sorry, just having a hard time figuring out where everything is gonna go. Is the relay gonna go near the fuse box? 

 

Really trying to limit the amount of cutting existing cables as well as dismantling anything in the car if I can.


gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828375 24-Jul-2017 13:36
Send private message

MikeAqua:

 

+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse.  Permanent and done well.

 

Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.

 

 

Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?

 

Thanks


skewt
752 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 215


  #1828398 24-Jul-2017 13:57
Send private message

Are you sure there isnt an option to disable this in your Fuse box?

 

I'm sure my old Ford Mondeo let you place a fuse in a certain location to enable always live 12v, otherwise it was only when the car was turned on

 

 Edit:

 

Sorry googling says otherwise for your model


HP

 
 
 
 

Shop now for HP laptops and other devices (affiliate link).
MikeAqua
8024 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 3818


  #1828500 24-Jul-2017 15:35
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

MikeAqua:

 

+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse.  Permanent and done well.

 

Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.

 

 

Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?

 

Thanks

 

 

Apologies for my lack of clarity.

 

The fusebox will be split up into groups. 

 

One group is Always On e.g. alarm, stereo memory lead, hazard lights etc.

 

One group comes on when the ignition-key is turned to ACC e.g. the stereo

 

On group comes on when the key is turned to ON e.g. the A/C fan

 

It sounds like your 12V socket is currently part of the Always On fuse group.

 

If I was you I would have the (+) lead powering the 12v socket moved from it's current position within the Always On fuse group to a spare slot in the ACC fuse group so it has power when the stereo does.  This is easy for an auto sparky to do and it will be a permanent and tidy solution.





Mike


gcorgnet

1096 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 273

ID Verified

  #1828506 24-Jul-2017 15:38
Send private message

MikeAqua:

 

gcorgnet:

 

MikeAqua:

 

+1 for getting the supply lead move to an ACC fuse.  Permanent and done well.

 

Those piggy back fuse are a bit flaky in my experience.

 

 

Not sure of the terms you are using but am I right in my understanding? You're saying I should use a relay and use an ACC fuse (can you clarify what that is?) as a trigger wire?

 

Thanks

 

 

Apologies for my lack of clarity.

 

The fusebox will be split up into groups. 

 

One group is Always On e.g. alarm, stereo memory lead, hazard lights etc.

 

One group comes on when the ignition-key is turned to ACC e.g. the stereo

 

On group comes on when the key is turned to ON e.g. the A/C fan

 

It sounds like your 12V socket is currently part of the Always On fuse group.

 

If I was you I would have the (+) lead powering the 12v socket moved from it's current position within the Always On fuse group to a spare slot in the ACC fuse group so it has power when the stereo does.  This is easy for an auto sparky to do and it will be a permanent and tidy solution.

 

 

 

 

I see, so you are advising me to change the wiring at the back of the fusebox to move the wire that  currently goes to my cig lighter fuse to another empty fuse bay that I know to be only when when the ignition is in ACC. Correct?

 

In other words, all I am doing is moving one (presumably red) cable from one fuse to another, making sure the new fuse is part of the ACC group?


MikeAqua
8024 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 3818


  #1828528 24-Jul-2017 16:17
Send private message

gcorgnet:

 

I see, so you are advising me to change the wiring at the back of the fusebox to move the wire that  currently goes to my cig lighter fuse to another empty fuse bay that I know to be only when when the ignition is in ACC. Correct?

 

In other words, all I am doing is moving one (presumably red) cable from one fuse to another, making sure the new fuse is part of the ACC group?

 



 

That's it.  The legend diagram on your fusebox may have the ACC labels as well.

 

Depends on how the leads are attached and bundled how easy it is to move them.  This is where an auto-sparky may be required.

 

On my vehicle the leads have blade terminals so it's very easy.

 

 





Mike


Aredwood
3885 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 1749


  #1830404 25-Jul-2017 23:54

Another way but easier than wiring in a relay - disconnect the power wire at the back of the lighter socket. And instead connect it to the ACC wire at the back of the radio. An FM transmitter is unlikely to draw much power, so the extra load on the radio's ACC power lead is unlikely to cause any problems.

 

Another option - your car's OBD2 port will probably have a wire that turns on when the ignition is on. Meaning you can just buy a blank OBD2 plug and a aftermarket ciggie lighter socket and connect them together. Meaning you will get what you want without needing to modify anything on the car. Only problem is that it won't supply power on ACC, which is only an issue if you like to listen to music in the car without the engine running.






1 | 2 | 3
View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic








Geekzone Live »

Try automatic live updates from Geekzone directly in your browser, without refreshing the page, with Geekzone Live now.



Are you subscribed to our RSS feed? You can download the latest headlines and summaries from our stories directly to your computer or smartphone by using a feed reader.