Far easier just to do the original test I suggested. And compare the water temp as reported by the scan tool. To the actual measured water temp. It is also a better test. As it also checks that the readings are not affected by a wiring or ECU fault.
Aredwood: Far easier just to do the original test I suggested. And compare the water temp as reported by the scan tool. To the actual measured water temp. It is also a better test. As it also checks that the readings are not affected by a wiring or ECU fault.
So, OBD measure was 105C, digital thermometer was 84C.
Aredwood: Far easier just to do the original test I suggested. And compare the water temp as reported by the scan tool. To the actual measured water temp. It is also a better test. As it also checks that the readings are not affected by a wiring or ECU fault.
So, OBD measure was 105C, digital thermometer was 84C.
Jon
Edit: spelling
Thanks for the update. Good to know that I almost exactly guessed how much the sensor was measuring wrong by.
At least you now have a confirmed fault. (fault in the water temp measuring system) And temps reading 19deg higher than actual, fits with the symptoms. (fan running and missfire)
Maybe take another temp reading with the scantool, when the engine is cold, and it has been at least a day since it has last been started. To see if the reported water temp matches outside temp. Or if it is instead reported as 35 - 40deg.
If you have access to a good service manual, it should have a table of sensor resistance values to water temp. Which will allow you to confirm if the incorrect readings are the sensor or something else.
So replaced the coolant temp sensor but car is still playing up.
Had it throw some codes yesterday and the idle is so rough when cold, it will sometimes cut out and will do kangaroo hops as it gets close.
Codes thrown were: P1339, P1340, P1336. I think this means these are either a faulty cam sensor, or maybe leaking injectors. The codes reference ignition coils - but given this only happens on idle and when cold that doesn't seem right?
The ignition coils might have misfire detection. Which would explain the ignition coil codes if they do. Such systems often work by detecting that a spark has actually occurred on the spark plugs. Which means that you can have a situation where a spark still fires, but the mixture in the cylinder is still unable to be ignited.
Have you rechecked the measured water temp Vs temp reported by the ECU?
Guessing head gasket is unlikely, haven’t seen any radiator fluid in the oil and car has only gone 50k - NZ new - 1 previous owner (old lady). Apparently the injectors are a thing though - might explain why it happens when cold - seals expanding when warm - problem is it is only at idle, have had no issues under load (which I would assume would make most of these issues worse).
A quick google suggests that there are known problems with timing chain on this engine, often appearing at low mileage.
With variable valve timing then a cam position sensor error (or sometimes a crank position sensor error) comes up if there's an issue with the timing chain as the ECU will be getting inconsistent readings - the camshaft position reported won't be in the expected position relative to the crank. This will also cause misfire (and associated fault codes).
Don't assume it's "just the cam position sensor" and replace it without proper diagnosis. Stretched timing chain issues like this aren't unique to Peugeot - other makes (Nissan in particular, but also GM) had similar issues at a similar time. Maybe they got poor quality chains from the same supplier.
This post suggests that there's a problem with Peugeot diagnostic software WRT the P1339 code. Maybe an experienced BMW/Mini mechanic can be of help.
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