coolcat21:stevenz: Just don't use a grinder on the fuel tank! ;)
That rust converter stuff is magic, works really well.
Go over any obvious structural areas with a fine tooth comb, if even a pin-head worth of rust is found then they'll make life very difficult for you. Outer panels and "easily" replaceable bits like the exhaust are not a big problem as worst case you can just have patches welded on or resin + repaint.
If you don't have access to a work-pit or a couple of drive-up ramps, then get a mechanic to check it out, even a really good jack can let go on you and rib cages are harder to replace than exhausts.
It doesn't look anything out of the ordinary for a car of that age.
I got it 're-wofed' this morning at a proper station (VTNZ) , I know it's a waste of money considering prev wof is only about 3 weeks old.
It passed. Only warning was the snow tyres borderline (minimum 4 MM, it had 5 left.)
I'm sure the inspector saw the rust on the corder of the black-spray painted member ... ? And no warning given, so I think i'm safe..
Another thing though the brake readings were:
220%, 220%
130% , 150%
handbrake: 120%, 140%
good ?
the rear being uneven like that just means a build up of break dust in the drum mine does it aswell put the car on a flat area jack it up take off the wheel and tap the drum with a hammer while turning it this will loosen the dust and return a better break % on that side but as your car uses mostly the front breaks for stopping and only a small 70front/30rear % for stopping its not that big of a deal
