How to fix handrail brackets to weatherboards?

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jrcollins

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#312607 1-May-2024 11:50

I'm planning to install an exterior handrail next to front door steps. According to what limited information I've been able to find online I would need to:

locate suitably placed wall studs to attach the brackets to
drill oversized holes in the weatherboards filling the holes with caulk
fix brackets to wall using mounting blocks and EPDM washers between brackets and mounting blocks

Am I missing anything?

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#3225150 1-May-2024 17:26

What's the reason for the oversized holes?

eracode

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#3225152 1-May-2024 17:29

@jrcollins What is the source of the info you're citing?

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jrcollins

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#3225549 2-May-2024 16:28

mdf:

What's the reason for the oversized holes?

To allow for movement in the weatherboards. At least that's what I read somewhere online but it doesn't make a lot of sense when you think about it.

mdf

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#3225566 2-May-2024 16:49

jrcollins:

To allow for movement in the weatherboards. At least that's what I read somewhere online but it doesn't make a lot of sense when you think about it.

I've not heard of that one before! Wood will expand across the grain, but not along it. e.g., according to some theories, you are only supposed to nail weatherboards at the bottom (not at the top as well) but I see that honoured in the breach all the time! The amount of expansion between an upper and lower screw in a bracket would be pretty minimal I would have thought. My instinct is you run a bigger risk of leaks with an overside hole than you would the weatherboard cracking due to expansion.

I've only done this once, so treat anything I say with a grain of salt (and *definitely* follow the manufacturer instructions), but generally I would:

Start by finding the studs. A magnet is great for this (nails should be into studs) but I would always double check that with some cautious exploratory drilling.
If you're anything like me, now spend excess amounts of time trying to optimise bracket placing to meet those studs. Then realise you've miscalculated and start again. My usual best case scenario is that I get to this point before I've done anything permanent.
Depending on your weatherboard profile and bracket style, you may or may not need some kind of block to get the mounting vertical. For bevel back weatherboards, another weatherboard strategically cut down is a good way to get back to vertical. However, some brackets are designed to move themselves or go on to bevel back so you might not need to do this.
If you block, caulk the sides and the top but not the bottom - if any water gets behind, you want to give it somewhere to go. I would also pre-paint my blocks since I hate cutting in around things like brackets but personal preference.
Drill holes carefully. If anything you want a slight upward slope (definitely not a downward slope) so water will drain out rather than in. For extra care (or bigger screw holes) you might want to think about priming the holes.
Attach brackets and rail according to manufacturer instructions. I would only add washers if the instructions ask for it.

eracode

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#3225584 2-May-2024 17:10

@jrcollins It would help if you could tell us where you found the info you’re citing. Is it a NZ website, part of a building standard, some random overseas guy on the internet ….?

Also a photo/s of the work area would be helpful.

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mattwnz

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#3225596 2-May-2024 17:33

E2/AS1 may provide some help https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/building-code-compliance/e-moisture/e2-external-moisture/asvm/e2-external-moisture-3rd-edition-amendment-10.pdf

johno1234

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#3225620 2-May-2024 18:13

A problem with attaching handrail brackets to weatherboards may be the angle/slope on the weatherboards. The handrail brackets are commonly designed for a vertical surface mount.

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jrcollins

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#3225951 3-May-2024 11:46

johno1234:

A problem with attaching handrail brackets to weatherboards may be the angle/slope on the weatherboards. The handrail brackets are commonly designed for a vertical surface mount.

Yes, but I plan to attach the brackets to mounting blocks.

jrcollins

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#3225954 3-May-2024 11:48

eracode:

@jrcollins It would help if you could tell us where you found the info you’re citing. Is it a NZ website, part of a building standard, some random overseas guy on the internet ….?

Also a photo/s of the work area would be helpful.

It was just random pieces of information I was able to glean from the internet. That's all I was able to find, hence the reason for posting here.

eracode

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#3225955 3-May-2024 11:52

jrcollins:

johno1234:

A problem with attaching handrail brackets to weatherboards may be the angle/slope on the weatherboards. The handrail brackets are commonly designed for a vertical surface mount.

Yes, but I plan to attach the brackets to mounting blocks.

As mentioned by others above, the point is the mounting blocks may need to be tapered to compensate for the slope (if any) of the weatherboards - to get a vertical surface for the brackets to attach to.

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eracode

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#3226020 3-May-2024 12:12

Are the weatherboards "classic" or "shiplap' in profile?

Are they timber, fibre-cement or something else?

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jrcollins

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#3226617 5-May-2024 12:15

eracode:

Are the weatherboards "classic" or "shiplap' in profile?

Are they timber, fibre-cement or something else?

They're traditional (classic) style timber weatherboards.

eracode

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#3226626 5-May-2024 13:19

@jrcollins This drawing may help. IANA builder but am an experienced DIYer.

Attach each mounting block with four galvanised or exterior quality screws. Use exterior treated timber for the blocks and paint them. I wouldn’t get too hung up about EPDM washers etc - just put a layer of No More Gaps or similar on the back of each block to seal against the weatherboards. No moisture will get in there.

Don’t worry about trying to screw into studs behind the boards - this approach will be plenty strong enough if done competently.

Stagger the blocks/brackets on the wall to get handrail slope to match steps.

Google handrail brackets

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wellygary

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#3226728 5-May-2024 19:45

"Don’t worry about trying to screw into studs behind the boards - this approach will be plenty strong enough if done competently."

If you can guarantee that it will only be used as a handrail- yes

But at some point in the lifetime that it is installed a 10 year old will decide that its actually designed for free hanging on,

I'm not sure you really want 30 kg of dynamic load on two screws in 20mm weatherboards?

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#3226729 5-May-2024 19:52

wellygary:

"Don’t worry about trying to screw into studs behind the boards - this approach will be plenty strong enough if done competently."

If you can guarantee that it will only be used as a handrail- yes

But at some point in the lifetime that it is installed a 10 year old will decide that its actually designed for free hanging on,

I'm not sure you really want 30 kg of dynamic load on two screws in 20mm weatherboards?

Hmm - I’ll stand by my comment. It probably wouldn’t stand up to an attached tow-rope being used to winch a car up a drive either. If the ten year old slipped 50cm it’s not going to be life-threatening. Bit of common sense here.

Done competently the bracket screws could be through the mounting block and into (or through) the weatherboards so the grab could be at least 40mm.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

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