Electrical upgrades for new build?

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CrashAndBurn

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#317972 2-Dec-2024 15:43

We will have our electrical walkthrough in 2 weeks' time. This is where we can choose the placement of outlets and any other possible upgrades.

Are there any must haves that the collective hive recommends.

Already have ethernet (Cat6E) ports in all rooms.

House is not that big. Around 120sqm. Already have like 25 double power points spread out.

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Hmm, what to write...
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#3315179 2-Dec-2024 15:50

Data cable to each corner of the soffit (or anywhere you might like to put cameras later)

data cable to anywhere you think you might want to put a wireless access point

Matthew

wellygary

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#3315184 2-Dec-2024 15:59

Anywhere you have an Ethernet cable run to, - Run another cable .... Esp in areas where you think you will have any consumer or Computer devices,

Sure you can make one port service multiple devices with a switch,

But if you've got the chance to have each device on a single circuit back to a central data cabinet then you can avoid clutter at the appliance end....

SaltyNZ

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#3315185 2-Dec-2024 15:59

Provision big cable(s)s for later EVSEs in/just outside garage (or wherever you normally like to park). Designate one circuit as "essentials" and ensure it goes to the places where the fridge etc. will be, which makes it easier later if you add solar + battery or manual changeover switch for a generator or V2L for extended power outages.

Don't bother with Bluetooth smart switches for lights. They're way more trouble than they're worth. The range is terrible so they're useless for turning off that light at the other end of the house in the middle of the night without getting up, and it takes so long to connect to the switch that it's far quicker to just get up and turn off the lights if you are, say, wanting it a bit darker while you watch a movie. Either insist on Hue or similar which is instantly available all the time, or just get dumb switches and be done with it.

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These comments are my own and do not represent the opinions of 2degrees.

richms

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#3315186 2-Dec-2024 16:05

Separate cables to the outdoor lights and the sensor for them so you can easily have them live all the time if you want to put smart ones in that are not on switched power.

power to the eaves if you might want to put in some festoon or similar lights.

15A to where you may have a portable spa pool.

Power to where BBQ etc is for outdoor fridge etc and a meat spit, electric cook top etc.

Data to anywhere you may want a camera - that means ANYWHERE, not just a couple of places.

If you may want landscape lighting later, then a location for the power supply that is out of the way and has power to it both switched and unswitched to allow for smart lighting.

Do you need to cable out to a gate?

Richard rich.ms

wongtop

565 posts

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#3315198 2-Dec-2024 17:16

Big enough cable to run an induction hob (even if you are installing gas or ceramic hobs now).

If you have an unshaded north facing roof, would you consider solar now?

neb

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#3315200 2-Dec-2024 17:21

Four-way outlets in each room, except the living room and office, where you need two four-way outlets.

gregmcc

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#3315203 2-Dec-2024 17:29

get the electrician to pre drill holes top to bottom in strategic locations and put in a draw wires, make it's it easy for the next guy,

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CrashAndBurn

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#3315204 2-Dec-2024 17:31

wongtop:

Big enough cable to run an induction hob (even if you are installing gas or ceramic hobs now).

If you have an unshaded north facing roof, would you consider solar now?

Already upgraded to induction hob from the default ceramic option. No plans to go solar based solely on current usage.

CrashAndBurn

669 posts

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#3315206 2-Dec-2024 17:36

neb:

Four-way outlets in each room, except the living room and office, where you need two four-way outlets.

Noted and will definitely add to the list.

sir1963

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#3315214 2-Dec-2024 17:57

Put in socket outlets that have a USB A outlet in them. Besides beds, Kitchen bench etc for charging phones, watches, headphones etc.

You can even get USB C now too...

Make sure that the Refrigerator/Freezer have their own circuit, its less likely to trip and you dont want to come home after a week when it has...

3+ way switching down the hallway

Power socket for hair drier, shaver, tooth brushes etc in the bathroom

Power outlet outside for electric lawnmower or power tools, pool / spa pool, etc.

Power outlet + lights in the ceiling.... if you ever need to get up there (or tradies) you will appreciated it.

Humidity control for bathroom exhaust fan

Sensor lights by all doors and by the driveway.

neb

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#3315224 2-Dec-2024 18:36

sir1963: Put in socket outlets that have a USB A outlet in them. Besides beds, Kitchen bench etc for charging phones, watches, headphones etc.

For that one I would suggest the exact opposite. If you plug in a USB charger you know exactly what you're getting based on what brand/type you buy, with the built-into-the-socket ones you're getting God-knows what sort of cheap junk with who-knows-what sort of characteristics, and which will be out of date either the day you install it or shortly thereafter.

CrashAndBurn

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#3315231 2-Dec-2024 18:51

neb:

sir1963: Put in socket outlets that have a USB A outlet in them. Besides beds, Kitchen bench etc for charging phones, watches, headphones etc.

For that one I would suggest the exact opposite. If you plug in a USB charger you know exactly what you're getting based on what brand/type you buy, with the built-into-the-socket ones you're getting God-knows what sort of cheap junk with who-knows-what sort of characteristics, and which will be out of date either the day you install it or shortly thereafter.

Agree. They offered all power outlets with USB ports which I declined. I'd rather use my chargers for fast charging.

tweake

2391 posts

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#3315233 2-Dec-2024 19:05

aerial/sat cables system. better to get an aerial guy to design and install than sparkies. its the no1 place where sparkies will cut corners (as well as ethernet or any other low voltage/signal cabling)

tweake

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#3315235 2-Dec-2024 19:10

something that very few people thing about, air sealing cable runs (or pipe runs). not uncommon to get runs through a wall top to bottom, which makes a great chimney. house insulation doesn't work if you let hot/cold air bypass it. can of spray foam before the gib goes on. it also can help block up gaps that mice get into. i had a mice that crawled up to the back of the light switch, what a smell that made.

sir1963

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#3315236 2-Dec-2024 19:14

neb:

sir1963: Put in socket outlets that have a USB A outlet in them. Besides beds, Kitchen bench etc for charging phones, watches, headphones etc.

For that one I would suggest the exact opposite. If you plug in a USB charger you know exactly what you're getting based on what brand/type you buy, with the built-into-the-socket ones you're getting God-knows what sort of cheap junk with who-knows-what sort of characteristics, and which will be out of date either the day you install it or shortly thereafter.

I use PDL/Schneider gear. They are modules and can be easily upgraded to 5A USB-C if you want.

https://www.pdl.co.nz/products/switches-sockets/pro-series/module-single-usb-fast-charger-type-c-25w-300-series-pdl342usbc?itemno=PDL342USBC-VW

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