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gregmcc
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  #1698974 5-Jan-2017 18:47
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Bung: It's another on/off functional switch. If it can't be locked against inadvertent operation it's not an isolating switch. The circuit breaker would be the isolation point.

 

 

 

an isolator switch isn't defined as if it's lockable or not, it's the separation between electrical contacts in it's off position.

 

 

 

Isolators aren't required on GPO sockets 32A or less, a fixed wired bathroom heater does need an isolator as a point of isolation is needed for a fixed wired appliance.

 

 

 

Some circuit breakers don't meet the "isolation" standard as the contact distance in the off position doesn't meet the distance requirements




Bung
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  #1699069 5-Jan-2017 21:06
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Greg is right that contact gap also comes into it but an isolator is more than a simple switch. The last thing you want to do is just switch the lights off for example before working on the fitting then have someone walk in and switch the lights on.

geekIT

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  #1699211 6-Jan-2017 09:31
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 Gregmcc and Bung: Thanks for the clarification. So, to get back to my original question, is the 10 amp light switch that's alongside the wall heater in my nephew's bathroom, a proper setup? Not quite sure how high it is but I had to stretch to reach it. And it definitely renders the heater inoperable.





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Goosey
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  #1699260 6-Jan-2017 10:51
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geekIT:

 

 Gregmcc and Bung: Thanks for the clarification. So, to get back to my original question, is the 10 amp light switch that's alongside the wall heater in my nephew's bathroom, a proper setup? Not quite sure how high it is but I had to stretch to reach it. And it definitely renders the heater inoperable.

 

 

 

 

You did say there was a pull cord right?

 

 


geekIT

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  #1699286 6-Jan-2017 11:59
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Yes, goosey. There's a built-in pull-cord.





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Goosey
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  #1699300 6-Jan-2017 12:18
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geekIT:

 

Yes, goosey. There's a built-in pull-cord.

 

 

 

 

Isnt that all you need then. If you wanted to 'isolate' live supply then reach up and flick the switch off. 

 

This is how all my bathroom heaters have worked in places I have lived. 

 

 

 

 


 
 
 
 

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geekIT

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  #1699499 6-Jan-2017 17:59
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But...

 

No, I'd better not say anything in case I'm accused of being 'abrasive'.





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larknz
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  #1699557 6-Jan-2017 20:12
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In my opinion a 10A rated isolation switch is not suitsble for a 10A load. It should be at least rated at 15A. In time a 10A switch will fail.

Jase2985
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  #1699587 6-Jan-2017 20:43
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larknz: In my opinion a 10A rated isolation switch is not suitsble for a 10A load. It should be at least rated at 15A. In time a 10A switch will fail.

 

really? im pretty sure the standard says they must be tested and capable of sustaining x% more than their rating for x time to be able to put the rating on it (i dont have the standard in front of me)

 

most if not all multi boards are only rated to 10A and people plug 2.4kw heaters into them all the time with no issues.


lxsw20
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  #1699609 6-Jan-2017 21:43
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I know of at least one decent commercial fire from plugging a heater into a cheap multi board. Certainly not recommended. 


richms
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  #1699612 6-Jan-2017 21:53
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lxsw20:

 

I know of at least one decent commercial fire from plugging a heater into a cheap multi board. Certainly not recommended. 

 

 

I think that is more a result of the terrible quality of cheap powerstrips. Like this one.

 

 

I was at bunnings once and someone was returning an equally bad looking one because it tripped out when they used the kettle and the microwave and it was useless if it cant run 2 things and why put four sockets on it when it cant even run 2 things. Some people no clue.

 

 





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larknz
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  #1699613 6-Jan-2017 21:54
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I have seen many instances where a 10A switch has failed because of overheating. A 10A switch is cheaper than a 15A or 20A switch, so some sparkies will use them to save money.

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