If you can't find any markings, this is a way to identify it.

http://www.boedeker.com/burntest.htm

timmmay:

 

Those two part glues are great, they stick just about anything to just about anything else - including fingers so be careful with it.

 

I have never had Araldite fail on anything. It is amazing stuff. Once someone forced the cover on my car's petrol tank the wrong way and broke it off. It was attached to a spring-loaded hinge with a spot weld, which broke. I didn't think for a moment that the glue would hold but I decided to try it anyway. It worked perfectly, probably the strongest component on the car.

Rikkitic:

 

timmmay:

 

Those two part glues are great, they stick just about anything to just about anything else - including fingers so be careful with it.

 

 

I have never had Araldite fail on anything. It is amazing stuff. Once someone forced the cover on my car's petrol tank the wrong way and broke it off. It was attached to a spring-loaded hinge with a spot weld, which broke. I didn't think for a moment that the glue would hold but I decided to try it anyway. It worked perfectly, probably the strongest component on the car.

 

Metal is one thing.  Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).

ubergeeknz:

 

Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).

 

Polyethylene, which is what the air filter bx in both our cars is made out if, is one such plastic.  But it can be heat-welded.

If it's in the car engine bay, then it could be nylon-filled engineering plastic or a polyamide. These will resist the solvents and heat / cold / vibration stressors of an engine bay.

It will make gluing / welding difficult, and could need an activator to make the glues stick.

Ideally, if you could brace it internally or externally with a wood dowel / square / rod / aluminium, to actually increase the gluing area - that would help.

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

Even if glue won't physically adhere to the plastic, you could try screwing a couple of self-tapping screws into the plastic, and glue those together. Or drill some holes in the plastic, and overfill with epoxy (gladwrap or similar on both sides to keep it in place), so that there is a blob of epoxy on both sides of the hole.

Beware that epoxy is brittle and won't survive vibrations well... you might want to press some fibreglass cloth into the epoxy for flexibility.

joker97:

Hi what would be the best way to glue a plastic tubular structure that has snapped off a plastic box? The snap is not clean, jagged edges.

ubergeeknz:

Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).

If OP hasn't realised by now from this thread... gluing of plastics is "complicated".  You could have a crack with superglue and/or epoxy.  If that doesn't work, maybe just replace the part?

If you could put up a pic of the broken pipe we'd be in a better position to be able to tell you how to fix it the best way possible 

Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane

Was recommended to me for by a Sea Kayak manufacturer for gluing paddle blades to shaft or accessory items to kayak, eg plastic to fibre glass/kevlar.

kotuku4:

Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane

Was recommended to me for by a Sea Kayak manufacturer for gluing paddle blades to shaft or accessory items to kayak, eg plastic to fibre glass/kevlar.

Athlonite:

If you could put up a pic of the broken pipe we'd be in a better position to be able to tell you how to fix it the best way possible 

kotuku4:

Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane