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Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere? You don't usually need to do that. Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.
If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges. These are usually pink.
Mike
MikeAqua:
Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere? You don't usually need to do that. Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.
If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges. These are usually pink.
I'm only going back to bare wood where I need to. The house was re-painted about 17 years ago and was stripped back to bare wood. Areas I do need to strip are where the boards have been as weathered and is exposing bare timber.
Also what is a recommended grit sandpaper just to take the 'edge' of the existing paintwork?
jimbob79:
MikeAqua:
Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere? You don't usually need to do that. Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.
If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges. These are usually pink.
I'm only going back to bare wood where I need to. The house was re-painted about 17 years ago and was stripped back to bare wood. Areas I do need to strip are where the boards have been as weathered and is exposing bare timber.
Also what is a recommended grit sandpaper just to take the 'edge' of the existing paintwork?
120 or 150 grit should see you right. You just want to take the glossiness off it. A random orbital sander does a good job on rusticated weatherboards. I wouldn't use a belt sander or angle grinder sanding attachment if you're just scuffing it up for a re-coat. They're a bit aggressive and can leave marks.
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