![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
I wonder if anyone here has used Coopers. Or is it just a more expensive paint stripper than whats available at DIY shops
The adverts look so promising.
https://coopersstripclub.com/
allio:Looks like you will probably need to be sanding that down unfortunately.
I'm in the middle of a similar situation myself. I have no idea what's on my deck as it was applied by the previous owners. Pretty sure it's not oil based as it has come off a bit unevenly, but not in nearly such a flaky way as yours has. I've also recently replaced a bunch of boards so have some with no stain on them at all, so overall a bit of a challenge to get a uniform finish. I decided I needed to go for something heavily pigmented to stand a chance, so I've just applied one coat of this stuff in a fairly dark grey tint (Tiri). Didn't do any sanding beforehand as I can't be bothered to be quite honest. Fairly happy with the result as it's evened things up nicely but I'll definitely need a second coat for a properly uniform finish. Hoping it won't take a third...
Photo shows the old stain in the foreground, new Woodsman in the background, and unstained new boards on the steps.
Maybe the wood makes a difference to how the stain goes on (and comes off)? Mine is kwila, yours looks like pine?
Also I don't really understand what a "hybrid waterborne alkyd stain" is but it's definitely not just paint. It's translucent, dries with no brush strokes and has clearly soaked into the wood in a way that paint doesn't. Resene told me not to use the standard waterborne stain on a deck as it can't stand up to foot traffic but apparently this stuff can.
I recently completed full water blast for my deck (year old), followed by cleaning and Oil.
I have used this product in Dark Oak. It was rated high on longevity on bunnings display.
My Kwila deck was bought from bunnings (pre-oiled) and because it's only 1 year old it was not in a bad state before I started this work.
It made a huge difference to the overall look though. Attached are images after 1 quote followed by completed 2nd coat.
These two images are after the cleaning and drying before starting out the first coat on the corner.
After fully doing the first quote - view from the top.
The below two images are from the top after fully doing 2nd coat. (Wait 3 hours before 2nd coat).
qwertee:
I wonder if anyone here has used Coopers. Or is it just a more expensive paint stripper than whats available at DIY shops
The adverts look so promising.
https://coopersstripclub.com/
I've unfortunately spent too much money on various chemical strippers - save your money and avoid them.
For a deck I would buy a cheap belt sander like this one. Get various grits and go for it. Stripping often needs sanding afterwards anyway don't use an orbital (slow), you could optionally hire a floor sander to get it done quickly especially if the deck is large.
maxeon:
I recently completed full water blast for my deck (year old), followed by cleaning and Oil.
That looks so good. I think it's an easy choice to go with oil for a new deck. Even leaving it to silver naturally looks much better than the patchy tints you end up with with acrylic stain. Unfortunately when you've inherited one that someone else has had a go at, you don't really have that option unless you want to sand it into oblivion. And in my case there's a lot of visible tint slopped between the boards too so even a belt sander wouldn't be enough.
@maxeon We have also installed a Kwila deck from Bunnings and I would like it to stay looking as good as yours. It’s been a couple years that you’ve coated it now, how did the coating wear and would you recommend the product.
Personally I prefer oil stain so am interested in any recommendations for products that will last longest. One third of the deck is exposed to Southerly, salt spray and rain and the rest is under the balcony. The old pine deck lasted for years but the wood split badly and the exposed third grew green mould in the cracks so am so wondering if there is a marine grade product available.
Hey @eva888 I can confirm the product I have used (here) has held up pretty well. My house and deck is in interior suburb of Auckland and not exposed to any salt spray or heavy out of ordinary weather issues.
There were no cracks or issues I have observed and the overall deck is nearly the same as how it's on my pictures above. My deck is mostly exposed to sun, rain and wind except one area which is under the louvre. All parts remain the same and consistent over 2 years now. Maybe very very slight shading in some areas where I did not apply 2nd coat properly.
I am planning to do another quote this year, but looking at the current state vs the photos I have posted myself, I think I can wait another year out.
Hope this helps.
benfolds: Otherwise I assume I will have to use a timber stripper and then sand it back to remove the original oil/stain completely back to bare wood. It is a shame as parts of the deck are still in pretty good condition. Any advice?
Late to the party but if you are sanding get a nail punch and knock all the nails down. As they are you'll sand the heads down to bare steel and they'll rust faster.
Thanks for that update. It’s great to get a review of a product when some time has passed. Am amazed that it has fared so well. I really like the Kwila colour and want to preserve it as much as possible.
I was watching the builder do it, what a hellish job, every piece of timber was slightly bowed and had to be forced straight even though he had personally chosen the pieces himself rather than ordered and delivered. He used stainless screws so hopefully no rust issues.
You wouldn’t believe the extent of damage weather created on the old pine, it was split so badly you could sit a 3ml nail in the cracks. Now we need to do the deck on the other side of the house but that’s a huge job plus it’s twice as exposed.
Yes, I was at bunnings and picked most of the Long ones to have consistency around the louvre of mine and then certain specific lengths. They do bow a lot and had to be forced by two people to straight it out.
I think that's very natural. Ensure the screws are pre-drilled and not directly drilled so you don't crack while having it done and it has wider head.
mattyb:Ditto, but not for the same reason but to follow the discussion on that Resene Woodsman product which we've used on our fence. So far it seems like a good product - water beads off it nicely. (Do wish bird poo would do the same...)
Following this topic - I have a similar situation to OP
Want to get the fence stained/painted next but it has dried on moss and green and water blasting uses water which is scarce in Wellington right now so am loathe to waste any.
Advice please. Raining all night and the new deck is not only soaked but it’s bleeding red colour. I tried to sweep some of the water off and noticed when I brushed it went sudsy. Walked in it didn’t I and that’s when I noticed it was transferring from my shoes to the entry which is tiled. Lucky I didn’t walk into the house and carpet. Starting to wish we had used pine. How do I deal with this issue and am also worried about slipping hazard.
The roof has a bit that leaks straight on to the deck so creates more water than normal. Roof is being changed next month so that problem should resolve.
So glad it rained though, Welly needs it.
It is normal for Kwila and other hardwood to bleed tannin when newly laid.
|
![]() ![]() ![]() |