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LostBoyNZ

584 posts

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  #2862525 6-Feb-2022 14:01
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Thanks guys, this is the model I have at the moment: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/fuller-pro-ratchet-handle-socket-1/2-inch-drive-silver/p/254218 But it sounds like I might need a "Ratchet 1/4 inch drive" instead of a 1/2 model? And then to find a 1/4 compatible Philips head bit (perhaps a normal philips bit from a driver bit set would fit that?). Or https://www.bunnings.co.nz/trojan-11-piece-ratchet-screwdriver-set_p0131348 which seems to come with the ratchet and head although not a particularly long one.

 

The amount of downwards force needed would likely still be an issue but maybe with just the right amount of wood pieces I can get something stuck between it and the ceiling.




LostBoyNZ

584 posts

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  #2862530 6-Feb-2022 14:12
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I can get this to try too, which has a hole in it and both philips and pozi heads. It should just fit in the gap: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/fuller-screwdriver-ratchet-set-6-piece-yellow-and-black/p/112461

 

The vice grips are unfortunately tricky with the space and the screw tops being round, but it may be possible.

 

I'll make a trip to Mitre 10 I think and get that screwdriver ratchet set, plus a 1/4 ratchet that I can put the bits into it.


JayADee
2148 posts

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  #2862532 6-Feb-2022 14:20
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A stubby screw driver bit and a pair of mini vice grips as a lever on the end might do it. Done something similar then used the offset screw driver when they got looser.

 

like this: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/frost-screwdriver-bit-7-pc-set-92290_p0156542 but you can buy them singly I think.




mdf

mdf
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  #2862534 6-Feb-2022 14:31
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Screwdriver bits are all 1/4 inch hex.

That socket handle is fine. You need a socket with a 1/2 inch square (to fit your handle) to 1/4 inch hex to take a screwdriver bit. These are common - you might have one already.

Vise grips or pliers will work best on their side - the gripping grooves should be 90 degrees to the screw head / parallel to the screw shaft.

Bung
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  #2862536 6-Feb-2022 14:53
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If this cabinet is wall mounted is there any chance of dropping it down say 50mm so you can get an impact driver onto the screws? Sometimes you know you're going to have to do it eventually. Self tappers are usually too hardened to get much of a grip on.

JayADee
2148 posts

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  #2862538 6-Feb-2022 14:56
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mdf: Screwdriver bits are all 1/4 inch hex.

That socket handle is fine. You need a socket with a 1/2 inch square (to fit your handle) to 1/4 inch hex to take a screwdriver bit. These are common - you might have one already.

Vise grips or pliers will work best on their side - the gripping grooves should be 90 degrees to the screw head / parallel to the screw shaft.

 

 

 

Yeah, use the vice grips on their side, 90 degrees to the bit. Mini vice grips and those stubbies can get in very tight spaces.


k1w1k1d
1520 posts

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  #2862540 6-Feb-2022 14:58
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This is what I was referring to when using side cutters to remove stubborn screws in my earlier post.

 

 

Only having 11cm height above the screw head is going to make it even more difficult, so would need small side cutters.

 

The pliers you showed are often called Linesman's Pliers.

 

A stubby screwdriver is probably the first tool to try?


 
 
 

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lxsw20
3552 posts

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  #2862542 6-Feb-2022 15:05
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LostBoyNZ:

 

Thanks guys, this is the model I have at the moment: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/fuller-pro-ratchet-handle-socket-1/2-inch-drive-silver/p/254218 But it sounds like I might need a "Ratchet 1/4 inch drive" instead of a 1/2 model? And then to find a 1/4 compatible Philips head bit (perhaps a normal philips bit from a driver bit set would fit that?). Or https://www.bunnings.co.nz/trojan-11-piece-ratchet-screwdriver-set_p0131348 which seems to come with the ratchet and head although not a particularly long one.

 

The amount of downwards force needed would likely still be an issue but maybe with just the right amount of wood pieces I can get something stuck between it and the ceiling.

 

 

 

 

You can buy reducers. I'm not sure you can go directly from 1/2' to 1/4', I've got 1/2' to 3/8' to 1/4' but achieves the same thing.

 

 

 

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/tools-equipment/hand-tools/socket-accessories/repco-adaptor-1-2in-drive-female-to-3-8in-drive-male-rt21495/p/A1196282

 

 

 

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/tools-equipment/hand-tools/socket-accessories/repco-adaptor-3-8in-female-to-1-4in-male-rt21820/p/A1196268

 

 


insane
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  #2862555 6-Feb-2022 15:43
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I had a 1/2" to 1/4. The first time I used it under even moderate torque it broke right off.

You could try heat the surrounding metal with a lighter if you have access from below to help loosen the screw. I'd be using a vice grip below, or a sharp chisel above you don't mind messing up to try get the screw to move the first few mm.

Also where are you located, I feel a GZ outing might be on the cards :)

pipe60
127 posts

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  #2862556 6-Feb-2022 15:43
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One of these sets has the bits plus the coupler,very handy for most jobs.

 

https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/2405-powerbuilt-socket-set-1-4in-dr-58pc?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3fiPBhCCARIsAFQ8QzUqX1x911kAgpZowY3CCw1V-Ne80WzQ2ylBSgOyVvLmLTccfFq1DgEaArbUEALw_wcB


Mehrts
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  #2862613 6-Feb-2022 16:13
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Slightly off topic (maybe?) but whenever I'd had to deal with tight screws, or screws with chewed out heads (even to the point of almost being completely round!), a small amount of this magic stuff on the screwdriver tip will allow it to gain positive traction.

 

I've not had a screw this stuff couldn't deal with, provided the threads weren't corroded together in the first place.

 


neb

neb
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  #2862642 6-Feb-2022 17:03
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k1w1k1d:

Those offset screwdrivers are a nice thought, but I have never been able to get one to work with tight screws.

 

 

The problem is that they'll slip out every time since you can't apply the downward force. Unfortunately in this case all the standard solutions won't work because of the limited access space, but for the OP do you have or can you borrow a right-angle adapter for an impact driver? Something like this?

neb

neb
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  #2862690 6-Feb-2022 17:10
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LostBoyNZ: The tails come down probably about 6 or 7mm. I tried vice grips but I seem to be mangling the tail rather than turning it. It'd also be very difficult to get at the rear two to do the same, doh.

 

 

For that you need a Neji-saurus, absolute magic for removing recalcitrant screws and bolts. They're made in Japan but you can find them in various places that sell electronics gear, google around for the best price...

Hunter
78 posts

Master Geek


  #2862699 6-Feb-2022 17:34
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Use a rotary tool aka Dramel.
Cut off a little on both side of screw head to make 2 flat side
Use vice grip to crack the screw loose, do not use plier as it will slip and round the sides out

LostBoyNZ

584 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2862700 6-Feb-2022 17:35
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Thanks, I got some of the items to try from Mitre 10 but unfortunately didn't have any more luck.

 

I'll check around and see if someone has the right angle adapter for an impact driver (would they work with a drill driver too?), and I'll check the Re-Grip and Neji-saurus (could be difficult to get at some of them with that after a quick look, but certainly looks better than regular pliers.

 

It's tempting to just remove the door. Not ideal security wise (someone could just pop out the drive storing the camera footage from the UMD Pro) although a glass door on the cabinet would only take a moment to break through too.


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