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Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Anyone sharpening chainsaws with Dremel carbide tool inserts 453 or 454?
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MikeAqua
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  #2966614 13-Sep-2022 13:19
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wratterus:

 

Honestly for the average chap who isn't a sharpening fanatic, those Stihl, 2-in-1 file holders are the best thing. They are basically foolproof and will pretty much always give a good result. 

 

 

They ain't foolproof enough for this fool. Equipped with one of those I can (accidentally) sharpen a chainsaw in such a way that it cuts beautiful curves.




Mike



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  #2994570 11-Nov-2022 08:43
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IMHO, the Stihl file-frame sharpener (which, BTW, can be bought cheaper online than from local stores. DHGate, say) is far easier to use if you open it up and remove the square file. It's only there to lower the rakers, which you can do manually if you think it's necessary. Rakers are the 'bumps' between teeth that govern how deep the saw teeth can penetrate into the wood.

 

TIP: If the chain is able to move, even slightly, while you file the teeth, it's damn hard to sharpen them properly. If the chain is on the saw, tighten the tensioner until the chain is rigid. Better still, remove the chain and clamp it in a vice that has jaws at least 120mm wide. It's worth buying a decent vice anyway; no serious DIY-er should be without this tool.

 

TIP: Before sharpening, clean the chain in a petrol bath and allow to dry. The oil tends to dull a file's effectiveness. If the chain is still on the saw, upend it over the petrol bath and rinse with a paint brush. Oh, and freely use fresh files. You should be able to get them in NZ for around $3 each, even from Stihl shops.

 

TIP: Every so often - maybe every time you change a chain - turn the chainbar upside down. IE, the word 'STIHL' (or whatever brand you have) will be upside down. This ensures that the bar's guide channel and sprocket get evenly used.




Trump crowned? No faux King way!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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