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Insanekiwi

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  #3080282 28-May-2023 11:21
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Red marked area needs to be cut.



SomeoneSomewhere
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  #3080289 28-May-2023 11:54
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Yup, classic concrete placement failure. 

 

Can you post a picture from the other side showing you much height you have to work with?


mkissin
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  #3080290 28-May-2023 11:56
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Bung: 
My sister-in-law has found that if the rubber seal isn't touching the ground your house will fill up with mice.

 

I have a small gap at one end of mine for a couple of extremely annoying reasons, and I get an absolute truckload of crickets coming in if I leave the garage light on after dark.




Jase2985
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  #3080294 28-May-2023 12:11
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SomeoneSomewhere:

 

Yup, classic concrete placement failure. 

 

 

not a failure, it worked as designed.

 

there was just no forethought put into how it would work with the garage door.


Insanekiwi

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  #3080389 28-May-2023 16:11
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I wouldn’t call it a failure. I have lived with it for 4 years and it’s only when really heavy rain and wind blows against the door. It seeps little from two points.

It’s probably about 2-2.5cm high.


Bung
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  #3080394 28-May-2023 16:47
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That view is better, it shows the garage floor being higher than the drive. The Code requirement is 50mm min.The usual method shown in the Building Code examples is for the ~20mm step currently at the front edge of the door to be behind the door then sloping down to the drive level.

 
 
 
 

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eracode
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  #3080481 28-May-2023 20:53
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How about trying to buy - or probably get it made - a small 5m Z-shaped flashing that could be fitted (and sealed) to the outside of the bottom edge of the door, reach over the horizontal lip of the concrete floor then go down the outside of the lip. Water would hit the door, run down the flashing and be directed outside, below the floor level.

 



 

Helluva lot easier - and probably a lot cheaper - than having a pro remove concrete.





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SomeoneSomewhere
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  #3080483 28-May-2023 20:56
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Possibly feasible, but colour-matching the door and actually sealing it against the door is probably going to be a pain. 

 

The existing lip looks tall enough that taking an angle grinder to it for a horizontal cut should be pretty easy - you get a double step, with a new cut about halfway between the 'outdoor' and 'indoor' levels. 


eracode
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  #3080489 28-May-2023 21:15
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Here’s a simpler and easier idea. It’s easy to buy aluminium extrusion from Bunnings, M10 etc. Something like a 30x20x1 mm unequal angle - attach to the bottom of the door with pop rivets or whatever. I wouldn’t have thought colour-matching would be an issue here - there would be only a narrow strip of aluminium showing - and it’s basically grey like the door.

 

It would be dead easy to seal - just run a small bead of silicon or similar sealant along the step in the angle where the extrusion juts out below the door.

 

This DIY job could be done in less than hour and materials would be less than $50.

 







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Wheelbarrow01
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  #3080508 28-May-2023 23:41
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Who did you buy the garage off? And did they arrange the entire construction of it?

 

I bought a Versatile garage 3 years ago and contracted them to build it. They cut in the rebated section of slab for the doorway before the concrete cured, so that water can't track in. My sectional door also has a rubber strip at the bottom which forms a tight seal to keep wind-blown debris and dust out. It's a very neat and tidy job. I can take a photo and post it here tomorrow if you like. They also rebated the pedestrian doorway on an angle so that rainwater dripping off the bottom of the door tracks out and away from the garage.

 

I would have thought that any concrete placer/garage builder worth their salt would know to do these things as standard.


Insanekiwi

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  #3080510 28-May-2023 23:46
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@eracode - thank you for the great idea. I think this could potentially work with good quality double side tape if I can get something similar. Maybe worthwhile looking at Aliexpress too! 


 
 
 
 

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Jase2985
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  #3080521 29-May-2023 05:39
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does your door not have a rubber seal on the bottom of it? why not just put one of those on?

 

http://www.ravenseals.co.nz/domino/raven/ravenweb.nsf/html-v/catalogue2

 

 

 

They do a couple others which may also suit

 

 

 

 


Ge0rge
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  #3080524 29-May-2023 06:36
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Jase2985:

does your door not have a rubber seal on the bottom of it? why not just put one of those on?


http://www.ravenseals.co.nz/domino/raven/ravenweb.nsf/html-v/catalogue2


 


They do a couple others which may also suit


 


 



Mine does, but capillary action still allows water to track under it. Plus, it's a garage - the floor is never perfectly clean, this g's such as sawdust etc also interrupt the seal.

Bung
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  #3080526 29-May-2023 07:03
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Wheelbarrow01:

I would have thought that any concrete placer/garage builder worth their salt would know to do these things as standard.



It is an internal garage on a complete house build. You'd have to go back to the drawing for the slab. Maybe at planning stage a tilt door was assumed.

SomeoneSomewhere
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  #3080558 29-May-2023 08:27
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Yeah, it heavily depends on the type and brand of door. We cut the nib back when we replaced the doors because the new door had a wider bottom section.

The rubber seal is an air seal; it's not going to be very effective against water.

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