Halfing the vertical gap between stairs

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#3106293 20-Jul-2023 15:21

I'm guessing you have zero creaking or clanking with the current step construction. Something you'll definitely want to avoid. Screwing something independent of the step into the steel begins to sound attractive and foolproof at the same time.

neb

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#3106294 20-Jul-2023 15:22

cunningdavid:
Thanks Neb. I worry that a plain piece of wood sticking down (screwed in) won't be very strong, or look great. I've wondered whether it's worth getting something metal made up, which could be a lot less chunky.

It's not supporting anything since it's only there to close the gap, and since it's relatively cheap you can test-drive it by buying a length of it, cutting it to pieces to fit the stairs, and taping them into place to see how it looks. It shouldn't be that intrusive, you're not closing the stairs off entirely but just closing the gap up a bit.

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#3106297 20-Jul-2023 15:24

gzt: I'm guessing you have zero creaking or clanking with the current step construction. Something you'll definitely want to avoid. Screwing something independent of the step into the steel begins to sound attractive and foolproof at the same time.

Any idea on how to attach something to the steel? I guess that welding is messy and maybe expensive. Thank you.

neb

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#3106298 20-Jul-2023 15:26

It'd be useful to know how much you're prepared to spend on this, if you're selling it then sinking thousands of dollars into something the prospective buyer probably won't even notice seems like a poor investment. Thus my pine-closer suggestion, you're not throwing a huge amount of money at it and it's relatively little work.

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#3106299 20-Jul-2023 15:29

neb, we're not going to spend thousands of dollars on it. If it was hundreds then it might be worthwhile. Buyers with small children (who would otherwise suit the house) might be worried about the steps.

neb

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#3106304 20-Jul-2023 15:37

Problem is with nine steps things start to add up quickly because everything you need to do for one step gets an extra zero added to the end of it. For the pine closer you'll have to use D4S unless you've got a thicknesser or similar, for 90x32 4.8m you're looking at $90, two of those and a tin of stain+varnish at say $40 will set you back $210 just for the materials assuming you can do all the work yourself.

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#3106320 20-Jul-2023 16:06

cunningdavid:

Any idea on how to attach something to the steel? I guess that welding is messy and maybe expensive. Thank you.

Drill and tap then screw on the new pieces. Using machines screw with counter sunk heads will ensure a minimalist look.

Personally, I think the idea of attaching strips of timber onto the underside of the treads near the back edge is the best idea. Again, you'd counter sink screw heads. They can be filled over if desired.

Mike

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#3106339 20-Jul-2023 17:11

cunningdavid:

Thanks Matt. So if it was built before compliance was an issue then we could leave it as-is without the council having cause for complaint, but if we improve anything then it might all need to be compliant?

We were thinking of improving the safety prior to selling the house, but if its going to be a headache to do so then we won't bother.

That is the issue really. You may think it is adding safety, but it potentially may make it more of a trip hazard and less comfortable to use. If you are trying to make them safer, some professional advice is really needed because stairs can be very dangerous and life changing, if not done properly, as there is a reason why there are standards. Especially important if selling.

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#3106354 20-Jul-2023 18:37

mattwnz:

That is the issue really. You may think it is adding safety, but it potentially may make it more of a trip hazard and less comfortable to use. If you are trying to make them safer, some professional advice is really needed because stairs can be very dangerous and life changing, if not done properly, as there is a reason why there are standards. Especially important if selling.

how is closing off the back of the stairs going to make it a trip hazard or less comfortable to use?

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#3106376 20-Jul-2023 19:19

Jase2985:

mattwnz:

That is the issue really. You may think it is adding safety, but it potentially may make it more of a trip hazard and less comfortable to use. If you are trying to make them safer, some professional advice is really needed because stairs can be very dangerous and life changing, if not done properly, as there is a reason why there are standards. Especially important if selling.

how is closing off the back of the stairs going to make it a trip hazard or less comfortable to use?

It’s not - it might stop a kid that is crawling up or down the stairs falling through the gap.

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eracode

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#3106380 20-Jul-2023 19:28

I have to say I think this is being over-thought. It’s not clear why the OP wants to do this but forget attaching to the steel etc - that’s ridiculous IMO. If you really want to close (or partially close) the vertical gap, just do what several posters have suggested, and screw some pine to the rear edge of each tread, facing vertically up, towards the underside of the tread above. That’s not going to “creak or clank”. Extremely simple to do. Paint (or finish how you want it look) before installing. Job’s a good ‘un.

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#3106390 20-Jul-2023 19:56

Just put a screen or trellis under it, attached to the back edge of the steps. Make it a feature.

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#3106392 20-Jul-2023 19:59

Rikkitic:

Just put a screen or trellis under it, attached to the back edge of the steps. Make it a feature.

Yeah - then grow ivy or bougainvillea on it. 😀

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gzt

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#3106395 20-Jul-2023 20:11

The op clarified the reasons above. In response to those additional suggestions I'd say a barrier that is not a robust barrier or introduces an additional hazard is probably not the way to go.

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#3106406 20-Jul-2023 21:25

Adding a baton under the tread to close the gap is common practice on exterior stairs. Example https://www.stairs.co.nz/stairs/quicksteps/

The 100mm gap requirement also applies to the balusters. I'd also check how sturdy the railing feels

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