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Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21
samgdan:
Hi all,
Calling all electricians....
the kitchen is getting renovated and it got to the stage of the cooktop replacement.
the new cooktop is 6000W.
and from what I can see there is a circuit breaker with a label "Merlin Gerin Multi9 D60 C32 - 240/415 4500"
The current cooktop is 5000W and always worked fine.
from what I can see the oven is using the same circuit breaker as well.
in my view the circuit breaker needs to be replaced as 4500W is below of the current and new cooktop W.
Builder who is doing the renovation said that his electrician confirmed that there is no need to upgrade the wiring or circuit breaker.
can i have second opinions please?
I don't want to engage another electrician at this stage but if it is needed I will.
thank you for your help.
Hi, I am a sparky, soooo check the following of the device you intend to install. (look at electrical specification NOT the wattage rating of the elements).
Most 4 to 6 "element" induction tops are rated at a maximum current draw of 10 amps (from the switch board) - hence the regular 3 pin plug on them. Some only draw the same as a small heater or hair dryer.
If the existing stove and top are functioning fine on the current 32amp breaker, and the new induction top is rated as 10amp supply then you will be fine.
As has been stated before, the breakers are to protect the fixed wiring in your house from over-heating / melting / shorting out because too much current is being drawn.
The only issue that I see is that the existing stove and cook top should be on separate circuits back to the switch board, as the stove has the ability to draw much more current than the current stove top ( I am assuming that the existing top is an induction unit as well?), and if the cook top malfunctions, the breaker will not trip until >32amps are flowing.
The cook top should be on a circuit with protection of 10amps and the stove remains on the 32amp circuit.
Regards
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AS/NZS3000 table C4 recommends up to 13kW of cooking appliances, in one room and intended to be used by one person, on a 32A breaker. Cables and breakers are reasonably resilient against short-term overloads and cooking appliances have a very large ratio of maximum peak power to typical usage.
Gollam:
Hi, I am a sparky, soooo check the following of the device you intend to install. (look at electrical specification NOT the wattage rating of the elements).
Most 4 to 6 "element" induction tops are rated at a maximum current draw of 10 amps (from the switch board) - hence the regular 3 pin plug on them. Some only draw the same as a small heater or hair dryer.
If the existing stove and top are functioning fine on the current 32amp breaker, and the new induction top is rated as 10amp supply then you will be fine.
As has been stated before, the breakers are to protect the fixed wiring in your house from over-heating / melting / shorting out because too much current is being drawn.
The only issue that I see is that the existing stove and cook top should be on separate circuits back to the switch board, as the stove has the ability to draw much more current than the current stove top ( I am assuming that the existing top is an induction unit as well?), and if the cook top malfunctions, the breaker will not trip until >32amps are flowing.
The cook top should be on a circuit with protection of 10amps and the stove remains on the 32amp circuit.
Regards
Uh, you might want to re-check some of that. While there are plugin benchtop cookers that operate on a 10A plug, you won't see a full-size hardwired induction cooker with a 10A plug. Those are typically 5-7kW, 20-30A, for a 600mm unit. Wider ones tend to be bigger.
Gas stoves typically have a 10A plug for the igniters, because the gas supplies the energy.
Many ovens come with a 15A plug, which is similar to the typical 10A plug but with a wider earth pin for keying reasons. That may be what you're thinking of?
It is certainly not typical for an oven to draw more power than a cooktop.
Example nameplate on an induction hob I have, indicating 7.2kW max load (31A), and supply via either one 32A or two 16A circuits - typical for European models where multiple phases may be available.
Zeon:
6mm2 is allowed for up to 40A in NZ:
https://www.level.org.nz/energy/electrical-design/wiring/wiring-materials/
That page is fundamentally wrong in so many ways.
Uh, you might want to re-check some of that. While there are plugin benchtop cookers that operate on a 10A plug, you won't see a full-size hardwired induction cooker with a 10A plug. Those are typically 5-7kW, 20-30A, for a 600mm unit. Wider ones tend to be bigger.
Gas stoves typically have a 10A plug for the igniters, because the gas supplies the energy.
Many ovens come with a 15A plug, which is similar to the typical 10A plug but with a wider earth pin for keying reasons. That may be what you're thinking of?
It is certainly not typical for an oven to draw more power than a cooktop.
Example nameplate on an induction hob I have, indicating 7.2kW max load (31A), and supply via either one 32A or two 16A circuits - typical for European models where multiple phases may be available.
I sit corrected 🤷♂️, it does appear that there is a wide variance of current consumptions with these appliances. Some that I have researched do go as high as 32amp for their electrical rating, and some much lower.
Guess, as I said in the original post - check the actual electrical specs for the unit that you wish to install, and have the cabling / current protection installed or upgraded to match demand.
I have installed full stove units that utilise a 30 amp plug, but with the trend now to separate ovens and cook tops, this isn't so common anymore.
Regards
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Gollam:
Uh, you might want to re-check some of that. While there are plugin benchtop cookers that operate on a 10A plug, you won't see a full-size hardwired induction cooker with a 10A plug. Those are typically 5-7kW, 20-30A, for a 600mm unit. Wider ones tend to be bigger.
Gas stoves typically have a 10A plug for the igniters, because the gas supplies the energy.
Many ovens come with a 15A plug, which is similar to the typical 10A plug but with a wider earth pin for keying reasons. That may be what you're thinking of?
It is certainly not typical for an oven to draw more power than a cooktop.
Example nameplate on an induction hob I have, indicating 7.2kW max load (31A), and supply via either one 32A or two 16A circuits - typical for European models where multiple phases may be available.
I sit corrected 🤷♂️, it does appear that there is a wide variance of current consumptions with these appliances. Some that I have researched do go as high as 32amp for their electrical rating, and some much lower.
Guess, as I said in the original post - check the actual electrical specs for the unit that you wish to install, and have the cabling / current protection installed or upgraded to match demand.
I have installed full stove units that utilise a 30 amp plug, but with the trend now to separate ovens and cook tops, this isn't so common anymore.
Regards
You might want to read what you posted, then i posted, then you posted again.
You made a mistake in the first post which i corrected you on, then your second post you argued i need to check my facts then stated everything i corrected you on.
Haha.
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