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fastbike
212 posts

Master Geek


  #3305146 4-Nov-2024 12:13
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Bung:

 

Do you think the electricity supply industry doesn't have a long list of planned price increases?

 

 

That's a different issue with a different set of solutions.  E.g. solar self generation, hot water heat pumps, time of use consumption/free power periods etc.

 

Gas is a fossil fuel that emits climate changing gases and as such will be phased out either by regulation or increasing costs.





Otautahi Christchurch




wellygary
8315 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305181 4-Nov-2024 14:07
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fastbike:

 

You'd be a bit short sighted to install a new gas water heater in this day and age. You'll end up paying through the nose as gas prices rise to pay for the planned import terminal. Ouch.

 

 

Wait and see, 

 

Nothing will be happening in that space until 2029, (which is when Methanex's contracts come up for renewal) 
- its the Tiwai of the Gas market, and if they leave there will be no need to import gas.

 

https://www.methanex.com/news/release/methanex-reaches-long-term-agreement-for-natural-gas-supply-to-its-new-zealand-operations/

 

- Genesis are Stockpiling 50% more coal for next winter, so they wont get short like they did this year, until the rains came...

 

https://www.genesisenergy.co.nz/about/news/genesis-increases-coal-stockpile-for-winter-amid-gas-shortage

 

 


wongtop
563 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #3305203 4-Nov-2024 14:38
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Except that Genesis actually had about 800,000 tons of coal heading into this year so will go into next year having less coal than the start of this year if they stay at 500,000 tons




timbosan
2159 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305204 4-Nov-2024 14:41
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Just as a point of reference, we moved from an old low-pressure system under the house to an outdoor heat-pump unit. Lowers power costs, gives mains pressure, improves WAF.

They are expensive compared to a regular water heater I feel 100% worth it.  Plus, the one I brought has a build in timer so I set it to run between specific hours to save costs.


Castlvaniafan

97 posts

Master Geek


  #3305205 4-Nov-2024 14:42
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timbosan:

 

Just as a point of reference, we moved from an old low-pressure system under the house to an outdoor heat-pump unit. Lowers power costs, gives mains pressure, improves WAF.

They are expensive compared to a regular water heater I feel 100% worth it.  Plus, the one I brought has a build in timer so I set it to run between specific hours to save costs.

 

 

 

 

Yea, I'm going with a heat pump one. How loud is your outside unit?


timbosan
2159 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305209 4-Nov-2024 14:51
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Castlvaniafan:

 

timbosan:

 

Just as a point of reference, we moved from an old low-pressure system under the house to an outdoor heat-pump unit. Lowers power costs, gives mains pressure, improves WAF.

They are expensive compared to a regular water heater I feel 100% worth it.  Plus, the one I brought has a build in timer so I set it to run between specific hours to save costs.

 

 

Yea, I'm going with a heat pump one. How loud is your outside unit?

 



Good question!  It's not noisy, it's on the south side of the house, which is the same side as the bedrooms. Weatherboard, no in-wall insulation (yet...) but below the level of the main house (the section is sloping).  I can hear it when it starts at 7am if I am in bed, but it's not noisy enough to wake me up.  Outside next to it, it's like a heat pump unit on a high speed.  From memory it took 4 hours or to heat up the very first time, up to the default 60-degree setting, on the Eco mode which is only the heatpump.

Overall, quieter than I thought it would be.  It's a Rheem Ambipower 280L.  


timbosan
2159 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305213 4-Nov-2024 14:58
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Trade NZ and US shares and funds with Sharesies (affiliate link).
  #3305215 4-Nov-2024 15:10
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@timbosan I would insulate all the pipes and valves. 1. to keep the heat in, and 2. to keep the cold out in winter on the cold lines, the less the difference in water temperature the less work the WC has to do.


timbosan
2159 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305217 4-Nov-2024 15:13
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Jase2985:

 

@timbosan I would insulate all the pipes and valves. 1. to keep the heat in, and 2. to keep the cold out in winter on the cold lines, the less the difference in water temperature the less work the WC has to do.

 



Thanks :-) I did wonder about that as it's been posted a few times on Geekzone.  Just the exterior (copper) pipes right?


  #3305268 4-Nov-2024 15:36
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Yea thats the one, if you can insulate the valves while still leaving them being able to be operated that would also be beneficial 


wellygary
8315 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305269 4-Nov-2024 15:37
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timbosan:

 

Jase2985:

 

@timbosan I would insulate all the pipes and valves. 1. to keep the heat in, and 2. to keep the cold out in winter on the cold lines, the less the difference in water temperature the less work the WC has to do.

 



Thanks :-) I did wonder about that as it's been posted a few times on Geekzone.  Just the exterior (copper) pipes right?

 

 

If you can find them on the inside, lag them as well....

 

Copper is a pretty good conductor of heat, so the warmer the pipe is the cooler your water will be...


Hunter
78 posts

Master Geek


  #3305275 4-Nov-2024 15:48
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My neighbour has the same house as mine, and one day he came over to have a chat with me.
Apparently his roof hot water tank let go, and it is raining inside his house.
Yes the damage is quite considerable.
So I went up to my roof to check, and the hot water tank up there is p*ssing water out like anything.
It was about to let go as well.

So we install similar to neighbour like what Timbosan did.
But ours is a stainless tank, or so it say on the label.

Never again will I have a hot water tank in the roof.

timmmay
20578 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted
Lifetime subscriber

  #3305277 4-Nov-2024 15:57
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We have a tank in the ceiling, installed about 10 years ago when we moved to high pressure hot water. The main benefit is it freed up space in the bathroom cupboard.

 

It's quite well reenforced, if it goes anywhere I suspect the house will go with it. There's a drip tray underneath, which thanks to another post on geekzone not long ago I've made a note to test every six months to make sure it actually drains... first test this coming weekend if I get around to it.


timbosan
2159 posts

Uber Geek


  #3305281 4-Nov-2024 16:47
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Jase2985:

 

@timbosan I would insulate all the pipes and valves. 1. to keep the heat in, and 2. to keep the cold out in winter on the cold lines, the less the difference in water temperature the less work the WC has to do.

 



Like these?

https://www.reece.co.nz/product/armaflex-fire-rated-insulation-13mm-wall-x-22mm-x-1904320


decibel
315 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #3305286 4-Nov-2024 17:21
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timbosan:

 

Jase2985:

 

@timbosan I would insulate all the pipes and valves. 1. to keep the heat in, and 2. to keep the cold out in winter on the cold lines, the less the difference in water temperature the less work the WC has to do.

 



Like these?

https://www.reece.co.nz/product/armaflex-fire-rated-insulation-13mm-wall-x-22mm-x-1904320

 

 

Hard to tell from that photo - you need the one that is pre-slit with sticky edges -

 

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/gorilla-gorilla-pipe-insulation-28mm-x-13mm-x-2m-black/p/384944


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