Switchboard WiFi monitoring and control of individual circuits using home assistant

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Ge0rge

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#3346054 23-Feb-2025 19:21

"Varisine" = Pulse Width Modulation (from the Eddi website).

PWM chops off parts of an AC waveform to reduce the average power - ie on for a bit off for a bit. The Eddi and Paladin are doing the same thing.

My HWC has a 3.2kW element. When the Paladin is diverting, my mains sits at 0 - nothing in, nothing out. It's that simple. Turn the kettle on, less gets diverted. Making more solar that house baseload and HWC can use? Export.

Handle9

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#3346058 23-Feb-2025 19:39

neb:

Handle9: It depends on the quality of the documentation. The amount of time we've wasted on poorly documented RTU devices over the years is incredible. A heap of them have weird stop bit or parity implementations. It's not so bad with one device.

Then there's weird register implementations with reversed doubles that aren't in the docs....

Never run into bits-on-the-wire problems, but then the TCP gateways possibly have a bit of intelligence in them to transparently work around problems. The main issues I've run into are modbus emulators that respond correctly to the three specific messages (byte sequences) the vendor tested them with and nothing else, at least give garbage results for other modbus requests.

We get exposed to all sorts of junk supplied by third party contractors so there’s that. Unfortunately the general level of knowledge of integration by most contractors approximates zero. The number of times I’ve heard “It’s plug and play“ from other suppliers…

On a big job we’re integrating hundreds of devices, often from dozens of suppliers. It’s a massive time suck that you can never really price for.

timmmay

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#3346109 23-Feb-2025 20:18

Ge0rge:

"Varisine" = Pulse Width Modulation (from the Eddi website).

PWM chops off parts of an AC waveform to reduce the average power - ie on for a bit off for a bit. The Eddi and Paladin are doing the same thing.

My HWC has a 3.2kW element. When the Paladin is diverting, my mains sits at 0 - nothing in, nothing out. It's that simple. Turn the kettle on, less gets diverted. Making more solar that house baseload and HWC can use? Export.

It looks like they're achieving similar goals in slightly different ways to me. I expect they're both effective, but the Eddi method seems easier to understand.

At $1000 I'm not sure what the ROI on either unit is. It's going to be more efficient than a simple switch for sure, but given we have other devices here to use up the power like three heat pumps (which can't be turned on and off regularly obviously) and the payment rate for grid export not being too bad now I suspect the diverter would take a really long time to pay for itself.

I'm leaning towards a simple switch like the Shelly. As good as a diverter? Nope. Good enough? Probably.

phrozenpenguin

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#3346178 23-Feb-2025 23:30

We use a Shelly EM (certified for NZ) with a contactor to control our HWC (and do energy monitoring, but that could be on another circuit if you wish). Hooked up to Home Assistant no problem and been very reliable. I got the electrician to install a 3 way switch to avoid any potential issues - hard off for WC (bypass Shelly), hard on for HWC (bypass Shelly), and Auto (controlled by Shelly). We have been on auto for over 18m now with no issues.

timmmay

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#3346192 24-Feb-2025 07:03

phrozenpenguin:

We use a Shelly EM (certified for NZ) with a contactor to control our HWC (and do energy monitoring, but that could be on another circuit if you wish). Hooked up to Home Assistant no problem and been very reliable. I got the electrician to install a 3 way switch to avoid any potential issues - hard off for WC (bypass Shelly), hard on for HWC (bypass Shelly), and Auto (controlled by Shelly). We have been on auto for over 18m now with no issues.

That seems like a good idea - an easy way to bypass the Shelly. I think I'll probably head that way, unless I decide to go with the diverter. Thanks :)

Kraven

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#3346204 24-Feb-2025 07:16

I'm looking at solar and also have the same dilemma. The Shelly EM with manual override does seem like a good DIY-ish option if you already have Home Assistant in place, which I do. I'm meeting with the engineer from the solar company we'll likely go with later this week and will suggest this as an option. They actually recommended a Catch Power diverter. Will report back with what they say.

jjnz1

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#3346221 24-Feb-2025 09:01

I use Shelly Em and some of the Shelly 1PM Gen3 Wi-Fi Relay Switches (16A).

They are certified for NZ/AU, and seem to work fine, as long as you have a good wifi network. I had many troubles with disconnections until I upgraded to UBNT.

Smarthome have 20% of Shelly at the moment. I get mine from here. Cheaper including shipping than NZ supplier.

https://www.smarthome.com.au/

Here's my HA:

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timmmay

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#3346343 24-Feb-2025 14:34

jjnz1:

I use Shelly Em and some of the Shelly 1PM Gen3 Wi-Fi Relay Switches (16A).

They are certified for NZ/AU, and seem to work fine, as long as you have a good wifi network. I had many troubles with disconnections until I upgraded to UBNT.

Smarthome have 20% of Shelly at the moment. I get mine from here. Cheaper including shipping than NZ supplier.

https://www.smarthome.com.au/

Are you using Shelly EM for all of those? Based on a few posts around here it seems like running more than a few amps through the Shelley seems like a bad idea, so stove and such wouldn't be ideal.

Sounddude

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#3346356 24-Feb-2025 15:19

I used a Shelly Controller in my Switchboard to acheive that.

I control my Spa, Towel Rail and Bathroom fan using HA and automation rules.

https://www.smarthome.com.au/product/shelly-pro-4pm-relay-switch/

jjnz1

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#3346359 24-Feb-2025 15:37

timmmay:

jjnz1:

I use Shelly Em and some of the Shelly 1PM Gen3 Wi-Fi Relay Switches (16A).

They are certified for NZ/AU, and seem to work fine, as long as you have a good wifi network. I had many troubles with disconnections until I upgraded to UBNT.

Smarthome have 20% of Shelly at the moment. I get mine from here. Cheaper including shipping than NZ supplier.

https://www.smarthome.com.au/

Are you using Shelly EM for all of those? Based on a few posts around here it seems like running more than a few amps through the Shelley seems like a bad idea, so stove and such wouldn't be ideal.

Shelly Pro EM with 120A clips, measuring 3 items in my switchboard. And a Shelly 1PM measuring my Spa (I don't use it for switching but could).

No issues.

Just looking at the Shelly EM model, I wouldn't use this. I would go straight to EM Pro and mount it in your switchboard. Anything that draws over 16A would most likely be on their own circuit anyway.

ashtonaut

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#3346483 25-Feb-2025 06:44

I don’t have solar, but I’m using a Shelly Pro 4PM and a Shelly Pro 3EM for HWC control and monitoring (x2) and overall house consumption monitoring respectively. Both integrate into HA out of the box with zero hassle, and the hard-wired network connection means I don’t have to worry about wifi reliability.

timmmay

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#3346486 25-Feb-2025 07:20

The Shellys look like good devices, but it seems like with larger hot water cylinders they fail after 2 months to 2 years. Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced contactor that should extend the life of the Shelly?

Perplexity pointed me at Chint contactors, specifically the Chint 25A 2 Pole 2NO Contactor. It's only $22, which is cheap compared with the Siemens and Schneider products, but Perplexity says they're a reputable brand. Does anyone have any thoughts on the suitability of this contactor, or how reliable it's likely to be?

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