New House build - Help needed

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208 posts

Master Geek

#2595860 1-Nov-2020 11:34

I'd just stand a bit of 4*2 next to that power and cat6 box, then put the other two flush boxes to the right. Everything will be central then.

When drilling studs just stay in the middle of the width.

33coupe

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#2595935 1-Nov-2020 17:56

Is there a minimum height from the floor I can run the speaker cable? The easiest way for the fronts is about 200mm. Otherwise the power cable on the right poses problems.
Thanks

Jase2985

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#2595997 1-Nov-2020 20:40

i dont think so.

Paul1977

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#2596376 2-Nov-2020 15:29

Jase2985:

also why so many studs? that's going to reduce the overall wall insulation value by a little bit.

Google says the R value of soft wood (which I assume includes pine) is 1.41 per inch. So for standard 90mm pine framing wouldn't that be an R-value of 5, so way better than the 90mm batts?

Unless I'm working this out incorrectly?

edge

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#2596393 2-Nov-2020 15:59

Paul1977:

Google says the R value of soft wood (which I assume includes pine) is 1.41 per inch. So for standard 90mm pine framing wouldn't that be an R-value of 5, so way better than the 90mm batts?

Unless I'm working this out incorrectly?

Pine at 12% moisture has conductivity (k) of around 0.12 W/mK in the NZS I believe. R=L(m)/k(W/mK). So for a 90mm frame, this gives us 0.09(m)/0.12(W/mK) which produces an R value of around 0.76 - so a lot less than even minimal wall insulation

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Jase2985

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#2596395 2-Nov-2020 16:00

Incorrectly

Wood is a thermal bridge, it will take the heat and move it from one place to another.

"wood will still diminish the effective R-value of batt insulation somewhere between 14 - 18 percent." and thats with stud spacings, the more you add the less the effective r rating

Paul1977

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#2596416 2-Nov-2020 16:35

@edge @Jase2985 I certainly didn't know that. I wouldn't have thought for a second it was that poor an insulator, but can't argue with science.

EDIT: My maths was right, but my info was wrong. The thing I read was using US R values, which are VERY different from NZ ones.

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33coupe

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#2598749 6-Nov-2020 09:47

Thanks for the info guys, and I didnt know about the wood either. I was planning on having more blocks put in for hanging cupboards / pics etc, but will have to choose carefully now.

So the electrical is all but nearly done (are adding some more after going around the house, damn lol). One thing slightly concerning me is the distribution box location, theyve put it on the hallway wall, I thought it was always on outside wall. The plan shows it was meant to go on bathroom wall.

Can / should I get them to move it? I was planning on having cupboards / shelving there, but dont want to cause more work etc

Froglotion

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Master Geek

#2599269 6-Nov-2020 20:46

Too late to move it once they have wired the house. I'd just leave it as is. Adjust cupboard locations later. I moved mine multiple times before I was happy with them in garage.

As for putting timber in walls for supporting cupboards, go nuts, I wouldn't worry about insulation values. The difference if any would be minimal. Any windows will be much worse, so not worth worrying about.

neb

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#2599272 6-Nov-2020 20:59

33coupe:
One thing slightly concerning me is the distribution box location, theyve put it on the hallway wall, I thought it was always on outside wall. The plan shows it was meant to go on bathroom wall.

Given that a bathroom wall would be the last place I'd want to put an enormous amount of 240V wiring, I can see why they'd move it somewhere else...

Jase2985

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#2599350 7-Nov-2020 07:02

neb:
33coupe:

One thing slightly concerning me is the distribution box location, theyve put it on the hallway wall, I thought it was always on outside wall. The plan shows it was meant to go on bathroom wall.

Given that a bathroom wall would be the last place I'd want to put an enormous amount of 240V wiring, I can see why they'd move it somewhere else...

why? the any wet areas will have waterproofing and the wiring will be inside a metal/plastic cabinet high up the wall.

unless it contravenes any regulations there is no reason it couldn't go there

33coupe

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#2623524 17-Dec-2020 22:53

Sorry for the delayed reply, been pretty full on, thanks again for the messages and info.

Quick update, it's now at lockup stage and some insulation has gone in (much to my horror, I don't know exactly where my speaker cables are lol. I'll check over the weekend lol)
Just to double check, how do people keep track of their speaker cables for in ceiling/in wall? Just measure where it is, and drill through gib?

As insulation for internal bedroom walls aren't included in the build I'm thinking of doing my own.

I was going to ask about acoustic insulation, but a quick search here I found a thread saying there's no point unless using diff gib.

Still keen to find out about speaker cables etc. Thank you

Jase2985

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#2623544 18-Dec-2020 05:49

measure where they are, but i would ask who ever is installing the gib to put a whole where you want it and pull the cable through

I put flush boxes in for my speaker cables, and installed keystone terminals. the cables in the walls terminated at the keystones and then the speakers connect to the terminals. made it very easy for installing the plywood in my case.

sen8or

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#2623616 18-Dec-2020 08:33

Sparky and gib stopper usually should work together to bring out wires. Gib stoppers always blame the sparky if it doesn happen and vice versa. As per Jase2985 - flush boxes with terminals would be the way to go.

Also, for your DB location, it can't be on a bracing wall so that may have dictated where it was placed.

33coupe

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#2624747 21-Dec-2020 05:47

Thank you. Would you still use flush boxes for in wall /in ceiling speakers? Sorry I'm such a noob.

I'll ask about getting holes put in the gib, would save me hassle/stress.

Aaaarrrrggghhh please help, This is such a mess. As I'm using brush plates I do need quite a bit extra cable, but I know it needs to be inside the cavity /flush box to be able to gib.
Any tips? Thanks

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