Repainting and replastering interior of home

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#2854375 20-Jan-2022 20:10

networkn:

Are you serious!? 20K for rejibbing two rooms? That seems incredibly high?

One large lounge and a decent sized hallway - not including ceilings. Everyone is so busy I suspect they bid high for work they don't really want / need and if they get it then they make a bundle.

Building Labour and Materials $9,362.93
Plastering $2,750.00
Painting $4,860.00
Carpet Protection $240.00
Rubbish Removal and small items required $220.00
GST $2,614.94
Total $20,047.87

Their initial quote with ceilings was $24K.

networkn

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#2854406 20-Jan-2022 21:55

Yeah, they are taking the mickey for sure. For a decent home that would extrapolate to 100K+

mattwnz

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#2854410 20-Jan-2022 22:00

timmmay:

networkn:

Are you serious!? 20K for rejibbing two rooms? That seems incredibly high?

One large lounge and a decent sized hallway - not including ceilings. Everyone is so busy I suspect they bid high for work they don't really want / need and if they get it then they make a bundle.

Building Labour and Materials $9,362.93
Plastering $2,750.00
Painting $4,860.00
Carpet Protection $240.00
Rubbish Removal and small items required $220.00
GST $2,614.94
Total $20,047.87

Their initial quote with ceilings was $24K.

In todays market anything is possible. Too much work.

insane

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#2854422 20-Jan-2022 22:41

I did a LOT of gibbing & plastering after redoing our dining room and kitchen. Finally gave up and got a pro in to finish the gib stopping for our entire kitchen and dining room. Guy was amazing to deal with, brutally efficient and very reasonable. Looking back at invoice it was $588 inc, and took 11hours total over two or three days to do the various coats allowing each to dry. Total wall and ceiling sqm would have been about 45.

My wife then stripped wall paper off our kids room and guest toilet when I was at work with chemicals. 50yr old gib and wallpaper came off in tiny strips wrecking the finish. A different gib stopper skimmed it to a very poor finish with many air bubbles for $1600.

I'd have got them back to fix but the sealing coat they used burned our eyes for days and days and we needed to seal the room and ventilate via the window for almost a week solid before our eyes didn't burn and we could enter the room to paint over it.

$20K sounds extortionate!

timmmay

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#2854441 21-Jan-2022 05:45

I have a team of guys who do contract work for one of the big housing companies doing my job as a filler next week. $2500 for 3-4 days of work to fix up the worst parts. They're delayed on their big jobs because getting gib is really difficult at the moment.

mdf

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#2854655 21-Jan-2022 15:02

No doubt that $20K is a lot for two rooms. I suspect that incorporates hefty premiums for gib is scare and we've-got-heaps-of-work-elsewhere-so-I'll-only-do-this-small-job-if-it-is-worth-my-while. However, replacing gib is at least one (and probably 2 or 3) orders of magnitude more work than just skim coating existing walls. Stripping back gib and fanagling wall framing is a big job.

For the OP's questions about living in the house while work is underway, just skim coating is definitely a job where you could happily live elsewhere in the house. Modern wall sanders with vacuums included make surprisingly little dust. You want floor coverings and furniture well covered, but can likely get away with leaving them in the center of the room.

Replacing gib is a heck of a mess. Picture something between kids having a flour fight with a 10kg bag of flour and teens carrying out science experiments with fireworks and 20kg bags of flour. And plaster dust is a nightmare to get out of anything soft like carpets and furniture. Clogs up ordinary vacuum filters something awful. You'd really want carpet well protected with a carpet wrap or builders board, and clear out any furniture that can't just be wiped clean. Gib installers will also need a lot more room and so you're potentially clearing out most furniture anyway to give them the space to work. That can certainly be move everything from one side of the house to the other while work's underway then move it back.

Did you actually establish how far out of straight the walls are?

geoffwnz

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#2854869 22-Jan-2022 15:21

Dunno about that mess thing that mdf mentioned. I've found that sanding plaster makes far more mess than removing and replacing gib does, but then I don't have a fancy vacuum sander. I can generally get old gib sheets off the walls relatively intact, then cut them into disposable sized pieces as they come off the walls.

I've done a couple of bedrooms over the past couple of years, wallpaper stripped, new built in wardrobes built and gib lined. Plastered the new joints/screw recesses and any damaged areas on the existing gib to a level sufficient for painting. Then sealer coat, plaster touch ups to the bits I'd missed that became obvious after the sealer coat. Two top coats and done.

I had the cheap two pack plastic drop cloths down on the carpet, weighted at the edges rather than taped. Swapped out between sanding and painting to remove the plaster dust without trying to vacuum the drop cloths. Furniture (and kittens) was removed from the room for the duration which was a couple of weeks per room once I got stuck in doing a task most evenings and weekends.

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timmmay

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#2854891 22-Jan-2022 16:13

Any recommendation for dust sheets? We need to cover a few rooms. Those things can be quite expensive, reviews say some are quite fragile.

geoffwnz

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#2854913 22-Jan-2022 17:28

timmmay: Any recommendation for dust sheets? We need to cover a few rooms. Those things can be quite expensive, reviews say some are quite fragile.

As mentioned, I just used the generic twin pack ones from Mega. Yep, they are fragile, but tough enough within reason. Don't drag things across them etc. I ended up with a couple of small tears by the end of the jobs but nothing problematic.

For the assembled wardrobe units that were stacked in the centre of the room during the process I just draped some old sheets over them and made use of the "bench" surface they provided. Quick vacuum and wipe down afterwards and they were good to go.

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mdf

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#2854972 22-Jan-2022 20:13

geoffwnz:
I can generally get old gib sheets off the walls relatively intact, then cut them into disposable sized pieces as they come off the walls.

You're a better builder than me! I've never had luck getting them off intact. A flat spade is the best tool I've come across but even then it looks like a bomb site.

Might be the glue? He tells himself...

geoffwnz

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#2854986 22-Jan-2022 21:52

mdf:
geoffwnz:

I can generally get old gib sheets off the walls relatively intact, then cut them into disposable sized pieces as they come off the walls.

You're a better builder than me! I've never had luck getting them off intact. A flat spade is the best tool I've come across but even then it looks like a bomb site.

Might be the glue? He tells himself...

Actually you are probably correct about the glue. I've never had the displeasure of removing glued gib. It was all just nailed in the 70's which seem to be the houses I've worked on. So you just pry up one corner and either spring or pop the nails through the gib and it comes off in one sheet. Then you pull the nails out of the timber. Except for the one you miss which punches a hole in the middle of the fresh sheet of gib.

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insane

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#2854991 22-Jan-2022 22:46

My gib exp is similar to MDFs, one heck of a mess where old gib comes off in tiny little chunks due to being old, glued or having once been damp. Other parts need a lot of persuasion where glued to the framing.

It's slightly better if you clean regularly as you go.

For drop sheets I used these floor protection rolls: https://mpb.co.nz/product/floor-guard/ fully reusable and very strong.

I found a cheap vacuum from the warehouse for $90 that's taken all the abuse I've thrown at it - quite astonishing really. Have retired it to light duty as my workshop vac and still going strong.

https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/living-co-multi-cyclonic-vacuum-2400w-blue/R2747839.html

timmmay

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#2855029 23-Jan-2022 09:20

insane:

For drop sheets I used these floor protection rolls: https://mpb.co.nz/product/floor-guard/ fully reusable and very strong.

Looks interesting, but at $175 / 24 square meters and we want to protect three rooms from dust needing three rolls I think $525 is possibly a bit excessive! I'll get some heavy duty plastic rolls from the hardware store.

mdf

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#2855161 23-Jan-2022 13:29

IME drop sheets and full floor protection have different use cases. If you're making a light mess or want to protect against paint drips, just about any old drop cloth will be fine - I keep old sheets and curtains for this and they work fine. If its a big mess (or you're protecting against heavy duty knocks) full on floor protection is great - builder or ram board is cardboard, and the cell foam stuff is probably even better. And it stays where you roll it out. And when you're done it's very reusable.

Decent heavyish plastic works well but IME you really need to tape it for full floor protection. It's too easy to accidentally crinkle or move it otherwise. You can get plastic with a taped edge that you just roll out along your wall, stick it down then unfold it. Not cheap though.

But horses for courses. It's not worth spending heaps for light protection, but it is if you need heavier duty protection.

insane

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#2855174 23-Jan-2022 14:07

timmmay:
insane:

For drop sheets I used these floor protection rolls: https://mpb.co.nz/product/floor-guard/ fully reusable and very strong.

Looks interesting, but at $175 / 24 square meters and we want to protect three rooms from dust needing three rolls I think $525 is possibly a bit excessive! I'll get some heavy duty plastic rolls from the hardware store.

I was given a roll by a work colleague, had no idea how much it cost, but given how good it is I'm not too surprised. I had my solid wooden floors resanded etc
just before I rebuilt the kitchen and changed windows around and whatnot, so it served its purpose.

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