How to get motorised roman blinds over protruding window sill

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#3020821 13-Jan-2023 12:32

yes.. I perfectly understand your dilemma... :-)

one last idea - using the triangles you wanted, but not installed at the bottom (next to the sill) but right at the top, as high as you can, so the blind is diverted away from the wall as soon as it starts to descend. Those can be made from clear acrylic as an idea, which might make them nearly invisible (any laser cutting operation will be able to make these but would be more expensive than using wood). This will create a gap between the blind and the wall but at least the gap is continuous and same width from top to bottom which could be more acceptable than having the triangles on the sill?

or move the whole blind off the wall (away from the window) and create what is called a pelmet at the top to hide the mechanism, etc?

johno1234

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#3020831 13-Jan-2023 13:41

I really believe SWMBO needs to be turned around on this one. It will look odd with the blind over the sill, and the gap will defeat the insulation benefit of the blind. Of course you can see this by just pulling it out by hand and lowering it past the sill. It will look wrong

Installing triangular fenders will look odd too. Planing back the sill will work if you must, but I think the vestigial extensions of the sill at each side will look off.

timmmay

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#3020833 13-Jan-2023 13:46

aucklander:

yes.. I perfectly understand your dilemma... :-)

one last idea - using the triangles you wanted, but not installed at the bottom (next to the sill) but right at the top, as high as you can, so the blind is diverted away from the wall as soon as it starts to descend. Those can be made from clear acrylic as an idea, which might make them nearly invisible (any laser cutting operation will be able to make these but would be more expensive than using wood). This will create a gap between the blind and the wall but at least the gap is continuous and same width from top to bottom which could be more acceptable than having the triangles on the sill?

or move the whole blind off the wall (away from the window) and create what is called a pelmet at the top to hide the mechanism, etc?

That's worth considering :) I'd have to consider wear on the blinds on the inside.

timmmay

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#3020834 13-Jan-2023 13:47

johno1234:

I really believe SWMBO needs to be turned around on this one. It will look odd with the blind over the sill, and the gap will defeat the insulation benefit of the blind. Of course you can see this by just pulling it out by hand and lowering it past the sill. It will look wrong

Installing triangular fenders will look odd too. Planing back the sill will work if you must, but I think the vestigial extensions of the sill at each side will look off.

It looks fine with the blinds over the sill. I initially assumed the blinds would sit on top of the sill, but my wife wanted them over, and I didn't mind much either way.

When they're closed the blinds seal at the top (kindof like a pelmet) and at the bottom, there's a small gap around the sides. So the insulation is compromised slightly, not hugely, but it's double glazed windows.

DonH

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#3020902 13-Jan-2023 16:56

I think @Aucklander's suggestion has merit. That is, ramps fitted to the blinds rather than the frame. Piano / guitar string wire will be strong enough and almost invisible.

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Goosey

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#3021148 13-Jan-2023 21:13

Save up for aluminium double glazing….that will sort the sill….

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timmmay

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#3021155 13-Jan-2023 21:35

Goosey:
Save up for aluminium double glazing….that will sort the sill….

It's already PVC double glazing, but we kept a lot of the existing surrounds.

Gordy7

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#3021156 13-Jan-2023 21:52

Mount the top of the blind box further out from the window frame so that the blind has a clear drop past the sill 😀

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#3021158 13-Jan-2023 22:07

A few more options:

Put a bend in the bottom section of blind so that it wants to stick out. It'll still look a bit weird, but maybe less so, especially if it goes to the floor. This is more-or-less what's mentioned above.
MAGNETS - not sure if this would actually work. Magnet recessed into the vertical part above the window pushes a magnet in the blind out as it passes. Recess said magnet and paint. Would require experimenting, and probably wouldn't work if there's steel in the blind.
Extend the vertical sides of the window so that the whole window frame is as far out as the sill. Might look a little odd. This would also result in the blind fully 'sealing' against the frame, so better light & heat blockage.

For cutting down the existing sill, I think you would probably want a guide of some sort as I think repeated planing can sometimes lead to wobbliness, as each layer taken off has all the bumps/dents of the previous layer, plus any new ones. A good operator can probably prevent this. It might also be doable with a router, and not the type we normally talk about on here.

Mike61

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#3021172 14-Jan-2023 07:26

Clamp a guide to the sill and use a renovator/multi-tool. I would sit the guide out from the arch so the cut goes in front of it. Will be slow but will get the job done. Just take it slow and keep the tool vertical. I have used a rectangular straight edge about 30mm high for similar jobs. Curved blades run along the guide work best rather than a series of plunge cuts.

Bung

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#3021182 14-Jan-2023 10:51

Track saws can cut within 18 - 20mm of their right-hand edge. The blind would probably not rest on that but tip over the edge.

In the spirit of automation I'd like to see a solution involving a microswitch or other sensor triggering something to push the blind over. Like the trick push button that unleashes a snake that stabs your finger with a pin.

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Goosey

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#3021188 14-Jan-2023 11:05

timmmay:
Goosey:

Save up for aluminium double glazing….that will sort the sill….

It's already PVC double glazing, but we kept a lot of the existing surrounds.

then I guess Roman’s ain’t suitable for the window….consider ceiling to floor curtains & replace the black out Roman with translucent type (old net style ).

im not sure using the ‘ramp’ will look good…. Nor be functional with regard to blocking thru side light/view from outside,

is replacing the sill cheaper than replacing the Roman’s?

networkn

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#3021189 14-Jan-2023 11:05

My 2c worth after a rethink of my life in the past 12 months, is that if it annoys you, get someone in to fix it properly for you. You won't remember the money in 6 months but either you will see the benefits every time you use the blinds, or at the least it won't bother you.

It's what money is for. Making life better.

timmmay

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#3021348 14-Jan-2023 17:13

Some interesting ideas, thanks. Mount the top further out is interesting, but impractical, a professional installed them and it's fiddly. The romans work fine and cost about $8K so we're not replacing them. Can't bend them as they're cloth. Magnets is an interesting idea! Not sure if it'd work, but interesting.

I asked three builders who were here about trimming the sills, none would do it, one would take the whole sill out and replace the whole frame, at a fairly high cost and hassle, and risk of damage.

Unless someone comes up with a genius idea I think we'll just keep manually lifting them over the sills. It's annoying but what can you do. They can also just sit on the sills, but because they're made to go further that doesn't look as good.

Thanks for all the ideas. More are welcome but I think I'll just give up on it for now.

networkn

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#3021384 14-Jan-2023 21:01

I think there is next to no chance of cutting that sill dead straight in place, you could replace the sill, but as you say, fiddly and likely not super cheap.

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