Electrical upgrades for new build?

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#3315381 2-Dec-2024 23:11

neb:

Handle9:
This can depend on how you set things up, the Casa de Cowboy has a dedicated network cupboard with equipment on wire shelves for good ventilation, and the cables run from a hole in the wall straight into the switch, no need to go via a patch panel or similar.

Yuk. It seems like a good idea until it's not. Been there, done that.

What was the problem? It's been fine so far, and I can't see why it wouldn't be in the future.

Not all my cat5/6 cables go to the switch, some are HDMI converters, some are serial, some are contact closure. Patch panel sorts all that out. The serial ones are from very old projects that pre-date ESP boards so will change if I revisit them, or move to a print server or something.

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#3315382 2-Dec-2024 23:38

neb:

What was the problem? It's been fine so far, and I can't see why it wouldn't be in the future.

Solid core doesn't like being moved around, inevitably it will have a pair fail if you change things around a few times. That and inevitably you change the use of the cable down the track to a different switch or device.

You run cables to a patch panel and then they are never disturbed mechanically while preserving maximum flexibility for use of the port. It's worth the extra hour of work.

Kim587

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#3315408 3-Dec-2024 08:35

Have done this before, here are a few things I would recommend:

Look after the boring stuff or it will be super annoying later. Where's a good central place to plug in your vacuum cleaner, or alternatively where will you charge a cordless one? Do you like lamps for ambient lighting, where will they go? If you enjoy having a Christmas tree, where will you plug in the lights?
Could you put a plug on the end of your kitchen breakfast bar/island (if you have either)? Great for baking or if you want to charge a phone while you cook.
Step lights mounted near the floor in your hallway and connected to a sensor are great for finding your way to the bathroom at night without being dazzled. Could even have one in the bathroom on the same circuit and set the timer for a few minutes.
The sparky will probably ask what size beds you want them to set the bedrooms up for (in terms of spacing between the plugs).
If there's a chance you will wall mount a tv, ask if they can run a conduit down to floor level and also put some extra wood boards behind the gib for the bracket to screw into.
If you are ever likely to have an EV/PHEV but aren't sure if you want a dedicated EV charger, at least make sure you have a standard plug on a separate circuit from the laundry appliances so it doesn't get overloaded.
Are there any lights you want on dimmers or double switches so you can turn them on from multiple entrances?

Good luck and enjoy the build ☺️

sir1963

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#3315412 3-Dec-2024 08:40

Kim587:

Could you put a plug on the end of your kitchen breakfast bar/island (if you have either)? Great for baking or if you want to charge a phone while you cook.

Warning, cables hanging over an edge like this are easy targets for kids to pull on. You do NOT want anything hot falling on them. Adults can also snag them as they walk past.
It costs more, but having outlets that can be pushed down out of sight unless you need them on the bench are a better option.

nztim

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#3315416 3-Dec-2024 08:55

My recommendations

Do NOT

Use recessed cabinets for your data cabinet you will struggle to fit everything in especially in a larger home and where you will likely have APs on the ceiling for wifi and need PoE switches.
Use Cat5e or Cat6
Run ethernet to any external dwelling (sleepout, garage, pool house) this should be a fiber run so you don't get potential ground differences between the buildings

Use a proper network cabinet https://cdlnz.com/RSFDS9 is my recommendation for a house your size which will allow for a decent PoE switch
Put 3 cat6a data outlets in the ceiling for a proper Wi-Fi ap system
Think about EV charging and run 32A power to Garage and Carport
Think about any other services you might use, Freeview? or are you going to be 100% streaming, it my cost a few Hundy to run a bit of coax now but will be very expensive in the future

Any views expressed on these forums are my own and don't necessarily reflect those of my employer.

Kim587

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#3315422 3-Dec-2024 09:15

sir1963:

Kim587:

Could you put a plug on the end of your kitchen breakfast bar/island (if you have either)? Great for baking or if you want to charge a phone while you cook.

Warning, cables hanging over an edge like this are easy targets for kids to pull on. You do NOT want anything hot falling on them. Adults can also snag them as they walk past.
It costs more, but having outlets that can be pushed down out of sight unless you need them on the bench are a better option.

Fair point, mine is tucked inside the bench overhang for the bar seating so not exposed to people walking past, I wouldn't plug anything permanently into that one its more for the quick whip some cream or charge my phone while I sit at the bar. Hot things like the jug and toaster have their own plugs in a safer spot.

sen8or

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#3315432 3-Dec-2024 09:32

Sensor lights in the bathroom / toilet (just a small light under cabinet or similar) that turns on in the middle of the night. No need to be blinded going for a pee, and the light will help aim.

Look at the kitchen layout and think how you will use it. We have sockets either side of windows which are either side of the oven / splashback. Good practical thought until I went to plug something in that needs to be close to the extract fan, appliances don't come with long chords.

Are you having any sort of sound system for TV? Perhaps prewire for ceiling and/or surround sound speakers.

Use HDMI sockets at TV mounting place if your equipment is not at the same height, don't run / dangle HDMI lead out a blank plate. If the end snaps off the HDMI chord hanging out the wall, you'll be buggered (also had this in a previous house).

In a 120sqm house, 1 or maybe 2 well placed Wifi points should be heaps.

Think about where you want switches for lights, you don't want to have to walk too far into an area to be able to turn on a light (most common in new builds where the kitchen / living area is close to the main door, but the light switches are only in those areas).

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richms

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#3315438 3-Dec-2024 10:19

sir1963:

Kim587:

Could you put a plug on the end of your kitchen breakfast bar/island (if you have either)? Great for baking or if you want to charge a phone while you cook.

Warning, cables hanging over an edge like this are easy targets for kids to pull on. You do NOT want anything hot falling on them. Adults can also snag them as they walk past.
It costs more, but having outlets that can be pushed down out of sight unless you need them on the bench are a better option.

Its actually banned in the US now, so new home builders are putting a blank junction box in those places and tell the new owners that its for them to connect their pop up power outlet into "when they choose one" nudge nudge wink.

Richard rich.ms

lxsw20

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#3315479 3-Dec-2024 13:50

For our new build I'm doing the CAT6 runs myself same with TV coax. I've got a S/H 6U rack which will be fine for my needs.

In wall HDMI from the TV to the credenza I'll do myself too.

We get 25 plugs with our build, so I've basically done it so they are spread around to spots where a second plug will be handy back to back for my partners father (electrician) to install. Not going USB plugs, as others have said they can be a bit average.

Our plug/switch range is PDL Iconic. We're just getting standard switches done for now, but at a later date I can put the zigbee switches in that they sell. I've asked for the downlights to be dimmable, even if we don't have dimmable switching for now, its easy to just change the switch over later.

We don't have an electric car at this stage, but I've asked for a 6mm cable to run to a standard 15A plug at the front of the garage. Once we get a car, we can change out the plug and put a dedicated charger there.

While there are a lot of good ideas in this thread, remember this all adds up so only do stuff if you can see a use for it now/in the future.

nztim

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#3315494 3-Dec-2024 14:46

lxsw20:

We don't have an electric car at this stage, but I've asked for a 6mm cable to run to a standard 15A plug at the front of the garage. Once we get a car, we can change out the plug and put a dedicated charger there.

Go 32A

Any views expressed on these forums are my own and don't necessarily reflect those of my employer.

richms

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#3315497 3-Dec-2024 14:50

nztim:

lxsw20:

We don't have an electric car at this stage, but I've asked for a 6mm cable to run to a standard 15A plug at the front of the garage. Once we get a car, we can change out the plug and put a dedicated charger there.

Go 32A

Standard 32A plug used on portable EVSEs is that ugly orange oversized clipsal thing, that the sparky will want to install a genuine clipsal one at absurdly inflated prices, which then becomes useless to you when a real EVSE is installed.

Richard rich.ms

wellygary

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#3315498 3-Dec-2024 14:57

richms:

Standard 32A plug used on portable EVSEs is that ugly orange oversized clipsal thing, that the sparky will want to install a genuine clipsal one at absurdly inflated prices, which then becomes useless to you when a real EVSE is installed.

Get them to just run the wire from the switchboard to the place you want the EV outlet, but don't terminate the wiring onto the switch board - either install an unconnected 32 amp breaker on the board or have them leave space for it. - just leave garage end behind a blank outlet plate

lxsw20

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#3315510 3-Dec-2024 15:31

nztim:

lxsw20:

We don't have an electric car at this stage, but I've asked for a 6mm cable to run to a standard 15A plug at the front of the garage. Once we get a car, we can change out the plug and put a dedicated charger there.

Go 32A

Will upgrade when we actually need a car charger. 15A will be fine for now, long as I've got the 6mm in the wall.

tweake

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#3315623 3-Dec-2024 18:47

richms:

Do not pre-plumb the heatpump unless the install will be happening immediately. Friend came unstuck because the pipes were left in place for too long and the installers would not use them as they had been open to the elements.

but then your cutting walls open, regib, repaint on a new house. or it doesn't get installed in the proper place. if builders are unsealing it, then they can pay for it to be replaced.

also if you have a place with rab or otherwise air sealed, ALL penetration's have to be done during build, because everything is sealed to the air barrier behind the cladding.

Handle9

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#3315644 3-Dec-2024 20:40

nztim:

My recommendations

Do NOT

Use Cat5e or Cat6

In a typical domestic environment you won't get a measurable benefit from 6a to 5e. All three will run 10GB over 20 metres, which is a long run in a house.

You're paying a significant premium for 6a. I know it only seems like a couple of hundred dollars but those decisions add up in a new build.

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